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Twingo Project Dini

Had a go at fitting meg gear stick mechanism too. Not a straightforward fit but nothing a drill and hammer wouldnt sort.
Wondering if i can bastardise the gordini gear knob onto the meg lift up reverse shifter, i really want to do it for oem factor, but these gordini gear knobs go for £80+!

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Had a free hour today, so unbolted rear seats to get access to fuel sender, then fed my fuel return line out from tank to bay, plenty of pipe to spare too, no doubt i will need it. Some nice oem clips under the car to hold the pipe in too

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Quickly cad a rough template to get sizing for heatshield, ordered some nimbus stuff to go on and protect my brake lines and master cylinder from the exhaust and turbo heat.
Next on the to do list is fit the dw65c fuel pump in my sender and get it in the tank

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So ecu, i cant really afford standalone kit, so oem will have to suffice, but for ease and to make sure everything in the car still works do i stick with the 133 ecu, or do i swap out for twingo gt ecu which is designed to run boost.
Or, could i use gt engine loom going to 133 ecu and that would work after being mapped?
 
Thats the pump end sorted, repaced the fuel sender for a gt one with mod for fuel return and Deatschwerks dw65c pump in.

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Ordered some nimbus heatshield for giving the brake pipes and master cylinder a bit of protection from the heat of the turbo and exhaust. Two goes with cardboard aided design to get the shape right, then cut the nimbus to suit. Its now 90% done, as I will solder up the gaps with more heatshield, and I want to dry fit the engine so i know where the fpr is going to go before i tidy up around the master cylinder

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Normally friday is car day where i get a good 4-6 hours, today i had about an hour. My next big task is dry fitting the engine and deciding where i want everything and to check clearance etc. No time for that so started to get things pulled off the shelves ready and realised my ndo looked like it had seen a couple split cv boots. 3 cans of brake cleaner and a wire brush had it looking half decent. Took off cable bracket and gearbox mount and gave them a quick spray in black. Sorry for crap pic, will get a better one next time i have 5 mins!
Im wondering, is it worth fitting clutch and flywheel if im dry fitting the engine, or shall o do them later on when im ready for engine to stay in the bay? It makes sense to fit it, but its less hassle not to!

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After a few hours here and there, and some top advice from the turborenault guys, i managed to get the r26r flywheel and clutch together, then the gearbox onto the engine. Which was hard as nails especially in summer heat

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Next task was trial fit of the engine into the bay. Not an easy task with the nd0 gearbox on. This would be so much easier with the 5 speed jr5113, but im chasing reliability, and rumour has it the nd0 is a strong box.
So after putting a hole in my driveway (wheel of engine crane sunk in the tarmac) and cracking the windscreen i got the engine in, i also chucked the downpipe in there too just to make sure i had clearance. Ndo fitted snug into my chassis notch, but rested a little on the subframe to body support, that will be an easy fix. The otherside of the engine was an issue, the sump rests on top of the subframe and wont let the engine sit low enough.
So its engine out, and grinder time again.

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Subframe notch cut, little more tidying required, then will fill with some cut open box section, or sheet, haven't settled on which yet. If the weather holds out i can get this done sometime over the next few days

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