9 turbo Phase 1 9 Turbo

[DaveL485]

try all combos, and you'll pin it down to the crankpin or rod.

I swapped it from cyl 4 to 3, the fault followed the rod/shells.

I swapped out the shells and it was the same, indicating an issue with the cap/rod.

I super-cleaned the cap/rod seats with abrasives and it improved, suggesting the cap/rod is squeezing the bearing too hard on to the crankpin. Maybe i'll take it out and do that again a bit more. I just don't get why that would happen unless the shop that fitted the pistons to the rod have damaged the rod or cap on that end.

 

[Turbell]

Could be out of round?
Dropped?
Measuring all pins/rods is only proper way, see how they differ, other than that it's all fingers crossed if/maybes

 

[Brigsy]

Id bin that rod for another one. Save future heartache

 

[DaveL485]

Id bin that rod for another one. Save future heartache

Probably sage advice from the C1J master... you may well hold the right to the world's biggest "I told you so" in the near future lol

HOWEVER. I took it apart again, cleaned everything AGAIN and examined the shells closely - what I had neglected to do before it seems was look closely at the back of the shell and I found a splodge of something on the back of one of the shells. Maybe a squshed bit of oily cardboard or something? I dunno but it needed a bit of effort to get it off, it wouldnt just wipe off which I guess is why it didnt come off when I wiped the shell off and dipped it in oil to assemble.
Once I cleaned that up I reassembled it and it now moves pretty freely, enough so to make me talk myself into leaving it as-is. So...back on with the oil pump, dipstick tube and sump.



Then I chucked the cam in and the timing gear, new chain & tensioner thanks to Mike @ GT Turbo spares.



Timing cover on and torqued up, then fitted the 36-1 trigger wheel for the EFI conversion that Brigsy sorted me out with although now I am wondering if it'd be easier to just get the same flywheel he used on the extra while this is apart and poach his trigger wheel settings LOL



Sump also now refitted, left it for the goop to go off a bit.

 

[Brigsy]

Id be using assembly lube instead of oil.

Weld the crank pulley to the inner part, then weld the trigger wheel to the pulley. It will slip if you dont.

 

[DaveL485]

Id be using assembly lube instead of oil.

Been using straight oil since my first rebuild, never had an issue, each to their own I spose? Same as preference of sump sealant or brand of gaskets I guess

Weld the crank pulley to the inner part, then weld the trigger wheel to the pulley. It will slip if you dont.

I did wonder on that, the small inner bit is keyed but the rest isn't so I think this would be wise, but I need to get a sensor in there and set it to 90° BTDC. There isn't any issues with welding the pulley to the keyed fitting is there? You just remove the pulley and keyed fitting as one unit instead of 2 parts going forward (not that that is a common occurrence anyway)

[Note to self for when i'm in the garage] - Engine @ TDC, sensor centre pointed at the falling edge of 9th tooth around from reset for 90° BTDC

 

[Brigsy]

I always use graphogen for journals so everything is lubed up well, especially as its going to be stood for agess before a fire up and oil will probably drain off. No chance of anything turning over dry when assembly lube is used. Cant gaurantee its going to fire first time on a basemap either so it will need priming up or risk it cranking, as these c1js take a while to prime on the oil pump alone, sometimes they need a helping hand.

Weld pulley to keyed part, then weld trigger wheel to pulley. No issuss, but 60-2 flywheel is a better option and less chance of trigger issues.

 

[DaveL485]

No issuss, but 60-2 flywheel is a better option and less chance of trigger issues.

Whats that flywheel off pal and will it take a standard C1J Turbo clutch (as I already bought a new one)?

 

[DaveL485]

Pete kindly put me to on a dip beam cell, new old stock, so now I have a complete brand new front end.

May seem insignificant to some but it's taken me literally years to source all the parts for it. This is a fab community

 

[DaveL485]

Gearbox is back from it's strip and rebuild. All new bearings and seals, tarted up, looking sweet! My end casing was rusted through, luckily I had a spare R19TD box with a good one so that got pinched

 

[DaveL485]

Welded the belt pulley to the keyed crank drive



Set it to TDC, aligned the 36-1 at 90° after TDC and welded that on too. Not very good welds, don't think I had the power high enough. Might redo it at some point!



Cleaned up the flywheel, and dug out the clutch I bought for it - I purchased this before my daughter was born as it was just starting to slip under load when my (now-ex) Mrs stopped driving it when she was pregnant. Daughter is 16 this year






Then I cleaned up the back housing of the water pump, it looked fiddly so I got my sand blaster out - turned out OK! It looked like this before



And after ten minutes of sand blasting





Bolted that together with the new pump and new bolts after chasing the threads out with an M6 tap.

 

[DaveL485]

Head resurfaced and valves lapped in



Bunged it on along with the bucket tappets, pushrods and rocker shaft, took me a few mins of puzzlement to figure out why the rocker shaft wouldnt go on but there is a cutout on the shaft that sits on the side of the studs/bolts. Didn't realise that (well, I must have known as I did loads of these back in the day, i'd just forgotten!) but anyway once the shaft was correctly rotated it slipped on easy and now the engine turns and the valves actuate like they should.



Left it there as time was cracking on and it was time for a chilled beverage and some F1

Question: When engaging the dizzy drive with the cam, how do you position it correctly? Is it a case of fit/remove/repeat until you get the rotor arm pointed at No1 cyl HT point on the dizzy cap?

Question 2: Anyone got a pic of what I am missing behind the oil filter? I cannot for the life of me find the sandwich plate that was there. I have all the pipes and stuff, just not the sandwich plate.

 

[Brigsy]

You wont be using the dizzy on wasted spark setup so drive will go in any position. Cut the dizzy top off and blank it, need to refit the lower half to keep the drive in place.

Sandwich plate Is missing off the block. Fuck it off and bin the pipework, oil filter straight to the block.

 

[DaveL485]

Sandwich plate Is missing off the block. Fuck it off and bin the pipework, oil filter straight to the block.

Be OK without it then? That means I can drop all the oil cooler pipework to the rad too...

 

[Brigsy]

Be OK without it then? That means I can drop all the oil cooler pipework to the rad too...

I see 60-70deg oil temps with no oil cooler when cruising. Not seen over 90deg on low boost.

 

[DaveL485]

Fitted a temp sensor in the head end plate, stuck the clutch and flywheel on...



Removed a broken exhaust stud i'd forgot about



Found the old exhaust manifold wont fit with the new EFI inlet, so have sourced an R5 GTT one to use with it. They're different to the early R9 ones.





Bunged the gearbox on instead







Then assembled my yummy new headlights and backplates. I don't need them yet but I just wanted to





Now I got to get that lump down off the bench somehow lol

 

[Adey]

Looking good on track for RRG in just over a month......? did you pop some Duralac or similar on all the stainless hardware you've used on the head?

 

[DaveL485]

Looking good on track for RRG in just over a month......?

Nope

did you pop some Duralac or similar on all the stainless hardware you've used on the head?

Nope - galvanic corrosion needs an electrolyte, I can't really see the engine getting wet very much, it'll spend the rest of its days in a garage with the occasional bimble around

 

[Adey]

Moisture in the air is enough you know that, otherwise aluminium heads wouldn't dull just from being in the air. Fingers crossed you don't need to pop any of it back off in 5 years time, well actually I hope you pull the threads out

still good update, nice to see it coming along

 

[DaveL485]

Moisture in the air is enough you know that

I bet you my degree in materials science* that they come out absolutely fine in 5 years time




*Pointless really as i've forgotten most of it tbh.