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Mk1 / Ph1 Mégane Cabriolet F4R-t conversion
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Wow that looks just SOOOOO right...
DaveL485
Staff member
Neodymium magnets on a wire coathanger.
binge
Well-Known Member
Cheers guys.
I bought a new shaft. Fitted it.
Filled the box with diesel. Ran it up to temp, dumped all the diesel out, and not one roller came out.
So I can only assume I didn't check the tripod over first and the thing had no needles in to start with.
It did have a clutch fitted at Mr Clutch just before I bought it. All the CV boots were split so I imagine they were capable of killing a shaft too.
Anyway. Filled with oil, and took it on a 20 mile road test yesterday. Didnt make any videos unfortunately because the temp kept climbing to around 106°c. Even at 60/70mph in 5th.
It's impressively quick though. Clutch starts to let go when pulling hard in 3rd but I expected that of a second hand Valeo 172 clutch.
I'm gonna change the stat to an 82° one and possibly drill a cheeky hole in it too. Fill with some decent engine coolant rather than the neat water that's currently in it. And get some miles on it.
Start ironing out the teething problems.
Hopefully I'll be able to get some footage this weekend if I get it back out.
@Adey - clips arrived today. Thanks buddy. Much appreciated.
I bought a new shaft. Fitted it.
Filled the box with diesel. Ran it up to temp, dumped all the diesel out, and not one roller came out.
So I can only assume I didn't check the tripod over first and the thing had no needles in to start with.
It did have a clutch fitted at Mr Clutch just before I bought it. All the CV boots were split so I imagine they were capable of killing a shaft too.
Anyway. Filled with oil, and took it on a 20 mile road test yesterday. Didnt make any videos unfortunately because the temp kept climbing to around 106°c. Even at 60/70mph in 5th.
It's impressively quick though. Clutch starts to let go when pulling hard in 3rd but I expected that of a second hand Valeo 172 clutch.
I'm gonna change the stat to an 82° one and possibly drill a cheeky hole in it too. Fill with some decent engine coolant rather than the neat water that's currently in it. And get some miles on it.
Start ironing out the teething problems.
Hopefully I'll be able to get some footage this weekend if I get it back out.
@Adey - clips arrived today. Thanks buddy. Much appreciated.
I noted you were running a non OEM rad. I had exactly the same issues in my R26 with a non OEM rad.
On a slightly different angle though if its not that, I saw a meglio conversion get hot when the fans came on as they were wired in the wrong way and pulling air from engine bay to the outside, rather than pulling air in
DaveL485
Staff member
I've seen this happen a few times too, defo worth checking.
binge
Well-Known Member
Frustrating if it is the rad causing it because it's brand new and not a cheap shitter either. Once the cars home (long story) I'll get a thermometer on the top and bottom hose. See what the rad is managing to drop the temp down by.
Ref the fan. It's most certainly pulling air through the rad.
Admitedly it's probably not a big enough fan. But at 70 mph in 5th. Then fan is doing bugger all anyway.
Ref the fan. It's most certainly pulling air through the rad.
Admitedly it's probably not a big enough fan. But at 70 mph in 5th. Then fan is doing bugger all anyway.
binge
Well-Known Member
Rad seemed hot all over but didn't really get too comfey with it as it was fucking steaming hot. 
Update on the car. I was going to post earlier about it but thought I'd give it to the end of the week incase I had any solid answers. But still in limbo.
Took meg for a spin to my parents house last week. Parked outside, left it for a bit to cool down while I sat on the grass outside and had a brew with me mother.
Got back in the car 20 mins later. And it wouldn't start.
Popped the ECU open and the immo-off had come unsync'd. (Somehow I KNEW this would happen at some point). Luckily it was dumped outside the parents house.
So I cranked it up their drive way in first on the starter. Took the ECU off. And that's where it's been since.
Robs got the ECU. He can reprogram it and get it working but after enough power cycles, it throws the code out again and comes unstuck.
Until he gets some answers from 'Julie', which I'm pretty sure they will just ask for the ECU sending to Poland. (Their standard answer to all queries!)
So, I've got this gut feeling that I'm gonna have to run the engine from another management set up.
Option A: 172 Ph2 parts
ECU (with immo off - I'm told it's very reliable)
Engine loom
Coil pack and leads
Throttle body & pedal
EFI boost control
Option B: Standalone ECU
My problem here is, I don't know anything about them.
Few tuners I've spoken to describe them as another can of worms.
They don't like to work with DBW throttles. So I'd need to fit a mechanical TB and change the pedal back over.
Probably have to fit specific sensors on the engine to keep it happy etc. Little bit in the dark with it.
Option C: Laguna key card and UCH
This was my very first plan but obviously never got it going due to being a twat and leaving shit behind in the donor car.
But a friend of mine who builds and tunes Vauxhalls fitted a 2.0CDTi into a Corsa C. Same issue, he couldn't bypass the immo. So he wired the core components into the CAN to keep the immo happy.
Not sure how many components the Sagem wants to see before it's happy though.
Got a feeling it's gonna want the steering lock, a CAN communications unit which was in the Laguna, and a heap of wiring.
Based on my experience so far. I'm almost at a point of just throwing a grand at a Standalone ECU and being done with it.
But id then be super fucked off if that didn't work either.
Update on the car. I was going to post earlier about it but thought I'd give it to the end of the week incase I had any solid answers. But still in limbo.
Took meg for a spin to my parents house last week. Parked outside, left it for a bit to cool down while I sat on the grass outside and had a brew with me mother.
Got back in the car 20 mins later. And it wouldn't start.
Popped the ECU open and the immo-off had come unsync'd. (Somehow I KNEW this would happen at some point). Luckily it was dumped outside the parents house.
So I cranked it up their drive way in first on the starter. Took the ECU off. And that's where it's been since.
Robs got the ECU. He can reprogram it and get it working but after enough power cycles, it throws the code out again and comes unstuck.
Until he gets some answers from 'Julie', which I'm pretty sure they will just ask for the ECU sending to Poland. (Their standard answer to all queries!)
So, I've got this gut feeling that I'm gonna have to run the engine from another management set up.
Option A: 172 Ph2 parts
ECU (with immo off - I'm told it's very reliable)
Engine loom
Coil pack and leads
Throttle body & pedal
EFI boost control
Option B: Standalone ECU
My problem here is, I don't know anything about them.
Few tuners I've spoken to describe them as another can of worms.
They don't like to work with DBW throttles. So I'd need to fit a mechanical TB and change the pedal back over.
Probably have to fit specific sensors on the engine to keep it happy etc. Little bit in the dark with it.
Option C: Laguna key card and UCH
This was my very first plan but obviously never got it going due to being a twat and leaving shit behind in the donor car.
But a friend of mine who builds and tunes Vauxhalls fitted a 2.0CDTi into a Corsa C. Same issue, he couldn't bypass the immo. So he wired the core components into the CAN to keep the immo happy.
Not sure how many components the Sagem wants to see before it's happy though.
Got a feeling it's gonna want the steering lock, a CAN communications unit which was in the Laguna, and a heap of wiring.
Based on my experience so far. I'm almost at a point of just throwing a grand at a Standalone ECU and being done with it.
But id then be super fucked off if that didn't work either.
as much as im a big advocate of the efi boost module on a 172 it IS and WILL be a down grade to your current ecu, get what you have working and all will be good, its probably a silly fault and once sorted will be golden 
then new clutch and gearbox, mapping and wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee fast times
then new clutch and gearbox, mapping and wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee fast times
binge
Well-Known Member
I have no doubts Rob can fix it to be fair. I get the impression from reading up on the Julie emulators that they are a bit of a nightmare on the Sagem ECU. Unless RS use a different emulating system.
Hopefully he will have some answers from the supplier next week but I've got a feeling even once 'sorted' I'll never be truly comfortable driving it far though fear of it shitting it's self again.
binge
Well-Known Member
as much as im a big advocate of the efi boost module on a 172 it IS and WILL be a down grade to your current ecu, get what you have working and all will be good, its probably a silly fault and once sorted will be golden
then new clutch and gearbox, mapping and wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee fast times
And this is exactly what my buddy who tunes VXR said
There's nothing as good as the original ECU.
DaveL485
Staff member
Adaptronic M2000 with a DBW additional module will run your DBW throttle mate.
Will D93
Well-Known Member
any reputable stand alone ecu will have an option for DBW i think
sensors might be a bit of an arce about fitting a companys own gear/known compatable gear into the existing engine set up.
but at the end of the day the engine still does engine things same as any other. if youve got stand alone management using its own sensors i cant see there being any real reliability issues on that front.
stand alone is the way id go about it for confidence in the build. Depending how 'ma julie pans out..
I think its worth a third shot aslong as your not being asked to pay any more money as its clearly not working as it should. e.g reliably.
as a side note i like yellow and your megan looks ace mate, job well done.
sensors might be a bit of an arce about fitting a companys own gear/known compatable gear into the existing engine set up.
but at the end of the day the engine still does engine things same as any other. if youve got stand alone management using its own sensors i cant see there being any real reliability issues on that front.
stand alone is the way id go about it for confidence in the build. Depending how 'ma julie pans out..
I think its worth a third shot aslong as your not being asked to pay any more money as its clearly not working as it should. e.g reliably.
as a side note i like yellow and your megan looks ace mate, job well done.
DaveL485
Staff member
The Adaptronic unit has always used native sensors. You can map the OE sensors in the ECU config. It's very easy. Temps, MAP, TPS and so on.
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