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Mk1 / Ph1 Mégane Cabriolet F4R-t conversion

thats a clio 172/182 log manifold setup


Interesting.
Wonder if the ports and bolt spacing is the same?
Only issue I can see is it mounts the turbo behind the manifold rather than on top. It's already tight for space behind the engine on the Mégane due to the big scuttle area.
 
yeah the f4r and f4rt manifold bolt up the same (y) its close in a clio with the above setup but the downpipe will miss the master cylinder just about. The other option on a clio 172 is to fit a 406 brake master cylinder, cant remember why though off the top of my head. I think it possibly moves the brake pipes to the opposite side away from the downpipe.
 
I believe the port spacing and bolt holes are identical on f4r/rt as @Adey said, heard it from a lad who has built lots of these engines.

From what i gather the wiring is done very similar in the meglio conversions, meg ecu is piggybacked in and only difference is immob is usually copied off original so it will talk to the uch, and clio wiring for dbw is used etc.

I stripped a full r26 loom out and there must be 20kgs of wiring, im avoiding fitting the full loom at all costs😆

Keep us updated, looks like its coming together spot on.
 
406 master I imagine is the same (similar) to the LHD Laguna one I've fitted. It moves the two ports to the opposite side. This is what Neal has done. Gives a bit more room.

I might have to keep an eye out for a 172 log manifold. Would my turbo bolt up to one? If not, a good excuse for an upgrade. Haha

There defo is a disgusting amount of wiring in the Laguna / Mégane F4R-t! The weight is one thing, but having to hide it all somewhere is worse.


I do love the Ph1 Meganes. So cheap! And they've always been awesome looking cars imo (Cabrio and coupe only)
 
Not the most productive of jobs, but some that needed doing nonetheless.

pulled pin 6 and 14 out of the OBD plug from the laguna, and fitted them into my original Megane OBD plug.
Wired them through the bulkhead with the throttle pedal wires. I also ran 6 additional 'spare' wires in the same conduit, just to save me doing it at a later date if the instrument cluster or something needs some wiring done.

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I also fitted the Laguna pedal. it's conveniently bolted up to the original pedal mount. But it's not quite in the right place.
Rather than start making brackets, I'm just going to get some heat on the pedal arm, and adjust / bend it to where I want it.

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Everything is pretty much wired into the ECU from the car now, I think.
I've not got anything relating to engine temp wired from the original Megane clocks though. I'm not sure the dial on the clocks will understand the signal from the ECU, as it was a digi-dash. So I may need to take the ECT sensor out of the old K7M engine, and fit it into an inline sensor housing or something.


I've come up with a slight issue that I cant get to the bottom of.
I've got 12v, at the crank sensor, all the time, ignition on or off.
And no cranking signal from Delphi when plugged in. (This could be to do the the imobilizer however)

Lead to believe it's an earthing problem somewhere. But I'm at my witts end with it. I've checked and double checked what I've wired in so far. All 4 earth points from the ECU are connected and making a good connection to chassis.
Engine block is earthed to body of the car too.
I'm wondering whether some of the wiring I've not used, for things like Air bag system, cruise control, coolant heater system etc, provides an earth for the ECU.

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Hoping maybe theres somebody technical on here who can give me a few tips to finding it. Haha
 
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Well, as im at a complete dead end with the electrics at the mo. Gonna start the exhaust.
The second mandrel bend arrived today, so tomorrow I can get busy with the grinder and welder.

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Wiring looks fairly basic on ecu to be fair. Daft question are ign live and permanent 12v the right way round? Where does the permanent 12v go to? If it goes to uch it might shut it down.
 
Wiring looks fairly basic on ecu to be fair. Daft question are ign live and permanent 12v the right way round? Where does the permanent 12v go to? If it goes to uch it might shut it down.

It is fairly basic to be fair. In terms of wiring the S3000 into my Meg loom, to get it powering up, and communicating, it needed an ignition feed into CD1 (Yellow wire), that is it. The rest is all ready wired up on the relay plate.
Of course, things like starter motor cranking signal wire, reversing switch etc, needed re-wiring onto the Meg loom directly as they are not done via CAN like on the Laguna.


I sussed out the issue with the 12v feed to the crank sensor. VERY schoolboy error on my behalf, and will teach me to assume shit, rather than buzzing wires out with the multi meter.

Obviously, I had to cut the plug off the Laguna crank sensor wiring, and solder on the plug from the Megane loom, as the JB3/JC5 boxes run the old style crank sensor.
Where I went wrong, is I unbolted the sensor out of the PK6 box, and plugged it into the first plug it fitted in, on the Laguna engine loom, assuming it would be the only one of it's kind.
WRONG.
It shares an identical plug with the bloody AC compressor. Haha

Needless to say, I've located the correct plug now, re-wired it, and have a good strong cranking signal on Delphi. :D

Re-wired a few more bits from the Meg to Laguna loom today. Alternator dash light, coolant temp sensor (Although im yet to get it reading on the dash), and I've cut back / re-taped up the conduit to get the ECU and fuse box further over into the NS wheel arch area.

Once the crazy lockdown has started to lift, I'm going to have a rummage around a few breakers yards under the bonnet of some Renaults, to find a nice housing / fuse box from something to fit into that wheel arch, and house all the Laguna electrics neatly.
And then I need to decide whether I'm going to run an airbox, or just an open style filter.

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Didnt get chance to mess with the exhaust today, But will have a crack at that this weekend.
 
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Awesome info and good to hear it was an easy fix. Im not worried about wiring mine up now. Now it shows cranking, i bet it will go when ecu is de immobilised.
 
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It's honestly really straight forward. I'm really no auto electrics pro, this is all new to me. My peak in electrics in the past has been wiring up towbar electrics. Haha!

I was well chuffed when I saw a cranking signal on the diag computer. 😁
From what I understand, the immo stops the fuel pump and the map / power to coils.

Looking forward to firing it up.
 
Done a good job mate, ive been thinking about this for ages but have not got to the point of doing any wiring. I looked all over for info and theres nothing out there really apart from the meglio stuff.

Does the throttle body work when pressing the throttle pedal? will the ecu let you delete any codes stored now?
 
Throttle pedal sends a signal and Delphi reads it all the way from closed to WOT.
But the TB it's self doesn't move unless you're at WOT, then it opens fully. As soon as you come off WOT, it closes fully.
I don't think a TB is supposed to work until the engine is running anyway is it? You've got me thinking now.

Yep, same boat as you, scoured hundreds of posts on forums and Facebook, with little to no solution. I had confirmation from a couple of people that it does work, but neither person had actually done it.
But then RS Tuning told me the same thing, so it was enough reassurance for me to give it a shot. Haha

Other than the odd eBay order of components for wiring and bits and bobs, it still owes me virtually zero cost. So if it turns out I need to have a stand alone ECU built to suit, then so be it. I just really wanted to keep it all OEM and standard looking


Still unable to erase fault codes. It doesn't even try to delete them and they come straight back. Delphi literally says unable to erase codes.
It does it occasionally when I'm working on vehicles which are a little more unusual. Never had it happen on a Renault though.
I'm gonna dig out the cheapy ELM Bluetooth tool one day and give that a shot. If it still doesn't work then I'll just wait until I'm at a stage of getting it running and go from there.

It could be the immobiliser stopping proper Comms I guess.

When I've worked on Chevrolet's before, I've had to unplug the immobiliser unit under the dash in order to get OBD comms.
 
I think the codes will clear once the immobiliser is defeated. If throttle is moving its prob good to go, im sure i recall the 172 throttle does the same when ign on and engine not running.
 
First day in a while I've been able to get stuck in and get some bits done. And it feels like I've done bugger all!
All the little things take so long.

First thing I got finished was the brake pipe work. I had to chop the little white fitting in half so I could have them angled in the right position. I might see if I can find something a little better fitting / looking at some later stage once it's all up and running. But they are working and doing their job for the time being.
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Got the vac bleeder on the calipers and went round it all twice to make sure all the old fluid was flushed right through. Got a very firm pedal now which is good. Obviously cant test it properly until the engine is running and I've got manifold vacuum.
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I got the FPR piped in properly. Chucked all the shitty fittings away it came with and used my own. The pressure gauge wasnt working so I've got a branded one on order. I think once this is all running, I'm going to look at other options on fuel pressure regulation because I'm really not fond of the anodized shite bolted to the inner wing. I'd like to run something OE. or may even re-locate the FPR to the back of the car underneath somewhere, just after the pipework leaves the tank. I guess it doesn't matter where in the system it goes.
Also made a little bracket for the evap tank solenoid, fitted new pipework to that so it would reach the inner wing.
And you'll probably notice, I've re-located the brake res too. It's really tight down the back of the engine bay, and I dont really know if I like the thought of the two feed pipes running about 10mm away from the back of the turbo. It's bad enough that the front pipe is gonna shave past the MC.
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Give it a quick wipe down and vac out inside too as it it was rotten!
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I've been looking to see if there's a cover available for this without the engine mount built in. It wont fit on due to the turret. I may end up cutting it up to fit, but it would be nice if there was something that just fits.
Might look at getting something 3D printed.
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And I tested the roof still works seeing as it's been sat there for so long. I might give it a quick wash and polish tomorrow as the paints really taking a kicking. :(
 
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im sure the original cup clio 172 racers had a cover there but no mount. the part is probably like rocking horse shit though.
 
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