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Mk1 / Ph1 Mégane Cabriolet F4R-t conversion

you could fit a clio 172 ph1 rail to the f4rt which had a rail regulator rather than an in tank item
 
3 bar i think, or 3.5 but as it pressure referenced it increases with boost. Essentially gives you more flow from your injectors, it will require you to get the ecu mapped to run correctly if you give it a pressure reference. You could just fit the same pressure reg in it as the normal rs225 and leave it with no pressure reference and it would run as normal.
 
Is the 225 FPR not in the tank then?
225 has fpr in tank but it is a static pressure one. Clio 172 and 182 is the same with a single fuel feed to the engine. Ph1 clio 172 has the fpr in the rail and is pressure referenced so it increases fuel pressure above boost pressure.
 
Fixing tangs to bolt it down are different after looking at the pics.

Id fit an external pressure referenced FPR in the engine bay somewhere and use the feed and returns. Run the rail in a dead head setup after the FPR
 
I've gone with an adjustable FPR to run inline (dead head).
Just a waiting game now for bits.

Might have a crack at getting some of the dash loom fed through tomorrow. Would rather not remove the whole dash if I can help it though. 😂
 
While waiting for parts, I thought I'd get the loom passed through the nice 80mm hole I had to drill in the bulk head, and start unraveling some of the mess!
Wiring isn't my strong point (At all) because I have zero patience, and I'm usually very good at fucking shit up with a power-probe! haha

Unfortunately, when I was stripping the Laguna, in the cold, and rain, just after Christmas, I'd thrown all the shit and scrap in the back of it, meaning all the rear section of loom in the car was burried.
Rather than unload it all, to retrieve the entire loom, I had a minute of utter madness and just went through the loom along the bottom of each door shut with bolt croppers. Assuming I'd only need what lies behind the dash and in the centre console.

Unbeknown to me, all the earthing rings / points for the dash loom must have been slightly after where I've cut. So I'm left with a dash loom which wont power much up.

Neal has been fucking excellent at helping identify bits and pieces, but there is only so much he can do to assist my sheer stupidity.

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I've identified all of the black wires. Some of them buzz out as ground already, some are open circuit.
Had a little play yesterday, and by grounding some of the thicker black wires, I'm getting UCH action. The courtesy lights comes on of I press the unlock button on the key card.
When I insert the key card, the flashing red immobilizer light turns to solid red on the clocks. But I'm not getting an ignition cycles. (I'm also missing the start/stop switch!)
I forgot to whip it out of the dash before my pal took the car away on his truck. WHATADICK!

When I remove the key card, and press the lock button on it. The UCH makes more noises, and the clocks / LCD display lights up for a second.
So I'm pretty sure there is either something still not grounded correctly, or there was a module / fuse box in the back of the car I left behind!

I'm going to split the loom open today and remove all the tesatape / plastic conduit, trace all the black wires back to where they come from, as some may be canbus etc. I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram online for it.


I've been told by more than one person now, that if I have the Immo removed from the ECU, I can plug it into the engine loom, wire the OBD socket in, and power it up with the ignition.
Wire the starter solenoid up to my original ignition crank wire, and when the ECU receives the cranking signal from the crank sensor, it'll fire.
This would be my preferred choice, as it'll allow me to do away with everything in that passenger footwell.
However, if it's not likely to work, I'd rather put the £££ spent on immo removal, towards a stand alone management system! haha


Any ideas? :D
 
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After many hours of reading and searching online.
Loads of pestering people I imagine have a better knowledge of me.
And a wiring diagram, I've decided to hack the entire car loom off the two main connection plugs, and go for it. Wiring up the essential components I think I'll need to run the car.

So far, I've used an ECU pin out, and located the 6 throttle pedal wires, the K-Line, CANlow and CANhigh wires, The ignition switched live, and the main / earth power cables.


ECU fires up, I can get into it with my Delphi and read codes, although it doesn't seem happy enough to let me erase them for some reason.
Over the weekend, I'll hopefully get the main control relay panel wired up and functioning off the barrel in the car. And get the starter crank signal cable wired up.
Once those bits and pieces are done and I can see the ECU is picking up a cranking signal from my 172 flywheel and crank sensor. I'll be happy enough to whip the ECU off and send it up to RS Tuning when they open back up, for the emulator / Immo-Off mod.

Then fingers crossed, it'll start.

All the wiring I dont want to use.
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First part of the wiring on the brown plug. Throttle pedal harness.
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And the LHD master cylinder arrived today. Straight into the Megane servo which is nice. Slightly bigger internal so should make the pedal feel a little more solid too.
It reveals the tiny amount of room a 2.5" front pipe is going to have in there. I've had a good look at pictures of Neal's 19 front pipe, and hope I can do something pretty similar.
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Haha. I'm honestly just winging it. 😂
Wiring diagrams and headaches. With a bit of head scratching it should work.

It'll be a HUGE weight and space saving in loom and UCH / Card reader if it works.
 
Looks great. If you want more room for exhaust, could use a cast rear mount exhaust manifold and turbo to suit a bit like the clio turbo conversions.

Interested to see how the ecu and wiring works out, as i need to do exactly the same thing soon on my Kangoo.
 
Looks great. If you want more room for exhaust, could use a cast rear mount exhaust manifold and turbo to suit a bit like the clio turbo conversions.

Interested to see how the ecu and wiring works out, as i need to do exactly the same thing soon on my Kangoo.

Do you have any info on one of these manifolds? Will they take the same turbo fitment as the one on the F4Rt?
And yeah, fingers crossed it works. I've had confirmation for more than one reliable source that it's a working method. So hopefully this is a solution to having a shit ton of wiring, or a £1000 stand alone ECU.
If not, at least I've learned how to read a wiring diagram from it! haha

I had quite a productive day (To me any way), yesterday. Managed to get a few hours under the bonnet of the Megane.
I wired in a few more bits from the Laguna engine loom, to the Megane car loom.
Now have a working reverse light. It works differently on the JB3/JC5 than it does on the Laguna. I assume the later models are CAN controlled, so I had to add some wiring in.
Brake pedal switch signal is connected up to the ECU now too. Not that it needs this for starting anymore, because I've got a direct feed from the ignition pos-3, to the starter cranking wire. BUT, the ECU may still want brake and clutch position sensors to avoid putting it into limp mode. Who knows. I have them so I've wired them in.

The engine control relay, and fuel pump relay are both mounted on the Laguna relay plate, which conveniently, only needs living up to work. All the wiring between this and the ECU is there.
I've got the fuel pump signal wire hooked up to the fuel pump control relay from the Laguna, which I've then connected up to the main fuel pump power feed on the Megane loom.
The pump doesnt prime on ignition cycle however. But I have a feeling this is because the immobilizer is still present on the ECU. It's wired exactly as the AutoData wiring diagram shows, so we'll wait and see what it does once RS do the Immo-Off mod.

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I couldnt remember if the Laguna had any sort of fail safe / crash sensor to cut the fuel pump in an accident. There's no provision for an intertia switch in the loom I have. So it must have either been done at the tank, or electronically.
I had the inertia switch from the Megane anyway, so a quick break in the fuel pump signal wire, via the inertia switch, has put some sort crash protection in place.
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My exhaust mandrel bends arrived yesterday too. So I've got some cutting and mocking up to do next week. Hopefully I can get some sort of front pipe fitted
 
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