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Mk1 Exhaust manifold

Adrian

New Member
Small question here in the technical corner,

Six months ago I bought a complete stainless steel exhaust line from Janspeed.
I was wondering if I could replace the manifolds on the engine without dropping the engine out of the car? The Renault manual states that you have to remove the engine + gearbox but in my opinion It should be possible with the engine in place.

Can anybody give me a definite answer?

IMG_2441-2.jpg
 
i think it is possible to do without removing the engine.
probably would need to drop the rear subframe to gain better access.

c'mon. anyone know any more info...
 
Adrien as per my other post you should be able to do it yourself with engine in placer but be prepared for a faff!
It took me 12 hrs plus to get my downpipes off.
Make sure car has enough clearance underneath and take lower and upper engine covers off
Remove manifold heatsheids and bolts (best to soak bolts for 24 to 48 hrs) as they will most likely have seized.
Nxt you will need to release bolts which connect original downpipes to manifolds (3 bolts on each) you need yto do this from underneath car
Once released you then need to release downpipes from collector (4 bolts on ph2 2 bolts on phase 1 per downpipe)
The cat heatshields on each downpipe need unbolting to remove.
Small downpipe should then release ok.
To release and slide out longer downpipe you'll need to inbolt oil lines and move to one side to give pipe enough room to slide down and come out (this was a right balls ache)
Once both dwnpipes are off and manifolds its a case of refitting your janspeed ones.

Prob much easier with subframe dropped if you have access to someone to do it. If not ts a diy job like it did mate!
Hope that helps.
Check out my posts for pics. :)
 
Ok! Thank you all for the information. I did find the info about the downpipes and backbox here on the site but not about the manifolds with the engine in place. That's the reason of this question.

I already thougth it was gonna be a shitty job :rollseyes: :)

[smilie=thanks.gif] Gonna start tomorrow
 
Manifolds removal is the easy bit mate!
If you having to remove original system its the downpipes which are the arse!
Plus by the looks of it the janspeed are a complete unit down to nr where collector sits which will mean they will have to go in from bottom up (no funny comments guys!)
It will be a twist and push!
Give me a pm if you need any advice and ill try and help.
Matt.

Ps take pics of fittting to post as not much on this topic mate.
 
So today I finished the new exhaust. And yes it is possible to dismantle downpipes/manifolds and back box with the engine in place :approve: :) but it's a hell of a job :violin:

The new one sounds fabulous not to mention the pops and bangs!!! :bow:

I will post some pics tomorrow
 
Well done matey! See told ya it was possible.
Yea get some pics up tomorrow pal.
How long did it take you?
 
It took me around 14 hours or so but it was worth it! The sound is absolutely fabulous!

Another question; what about the two lambda sensors which were originally placed before the first "cat"? I took them off but this will of course lit the emission light. Is it possible to fake the signal from the sensors to the computer with a resistor or something? I will not pass the MOT here with the light on.

And what does the engine management system do with this "cat" failure? Under full load the combustion of the engine is not optimal now. I know the computer falls back to it’s original values but do you all drive under these circumstances now with a full decat system?
 
Good pics adrien.
Don't think its possible to permently trick the engine to trn warnning light off.
Few prvious posts on it on the forum. Taking bulb out seems to be most popular option.
I've got 2 lambas linked up and doesn't effect engine.though other members such as twr, ray and peter will know more than me in effects of decats on this.
 
There is a way of tricking the sensors using resistors - i will dig a link out if i have still got it?
 
OK! Thank you both for the answers. I will look into these 02 simulators

Another question; Does it matter if you plug in the lambda sensor which was originally located before or after the cat? Is the first one is used to adjust the air/fuel mixture and the second one to check the performance of the cat?

When I put the clio under full load it will make a "subaru boxer" sound in some parts of the rev range. I know this is an air/fuel mixture problem because whe experienced this before on some lancia's.
 
Doesn't matter which goes in where but one from each side of the engine should go in each one on down pipe to form a loop
 
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