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Loltus Exige
- Thread starter andybond
- Start date
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- Tags
- car supercharger
Some bits are!
The k20 list would be extensive, I would have to change box , linkages etc. These bits all add up.
Shafts are like $1500/pair!
Thanks to the genius idea of @Fonzey for rebuilding a new arch liner can you guess what I have been doing this evening folks? Yep .. You guessed it ..
I bought some of this
Took off a wheel to reveal this
Whipped of an arch liner to show this
Bosched on some of the tape above to make it look like this
All the time I was educating my son wearing this
Which you can get from here : Tee Shirts Archives - Exiges.com SHOP!
I bought some of this
Took off a wheel to reveal this
Whipped of an arch liner to show this
Bosched on some of the tape above to make it look like this
All the time I was educating my son wearing this
Which you can get from here : Tee Shirts Archives - Exiges.com SHOP!
I have sprung an oil leak.
I noticed a small puddle of oil under the car direct under the middle of the 3 naca ducts.
I removed the undertray and spotted one of the nuts on the sump was coated in oil. There appears to be no leaks though. The rocket cover I removed and replaced is also dry. No seeps.
I drove 68mi , stopped and didn’t notice any signs of oil loss. Only when I the car was in the garage.
I guess I’ll have to get the car in the air , and validate where the leak is coming from.
When I removed the undertray it’s hard to see where it’s splattered to movement of the oil. Nothing on the peripheries though to suggest rocker cover. Top half of the block is bone dry
I noticed a small puddle of oil under the car direct under the middle of the 3 naca ducts.
I removed the undertray and spotted one of the nuts on the sump was coated in oil. There appears to be no leaks though. The rocket cover I removed and replaced is also dry. No seeps.
I drove 68mi , stopped and didn’t notice any signs of oil loss. Only when I the car was in the garage.
I guess I’ll have to get the car in the air , and validate where the leak is coming from.
When I removed the undertray it’s hard to see where it’s splattered to movement of the oil. Nothing on the peripheries though to suggest rocker cover. Top half of the block is bone dry
In anticipation of a O ring arriving and my RTV in case its not that I took the under trays off the car and got it in the air
However the sump I have on the car is freaking massive! I cannot see anything other than the oil filter ( one tiny drop of oil on the outside ) and the sandwich plate.
I cannot work out for the life of me where the oil is coming from , or where the dipstick actually enters the block. I have removed the top 11mm bolt but its seems pretty tight still.
Have to changed your O ring? How did you do it? I am still assuming its that. I have rules out it being the rocker cover that I changed over as there is nothing wet until 3/4 the way down the long block.
Suggestions or answers on a postcard are welcome.
However the sump I have on the car is freaking massive! I cannot see anything other than the oil filter ( one tiny drop of oil on the outside ) and the sandwich plate.
I cannot work out for the life of me where the oil is coming from , or where the dipstick actually enters the block. I have removed the top 11mm bolt but its seems pretty tight still.
Have to changed your O ring? How did you do it? I am still assuming its that. I have rules out it being the rocker cover that I changed over as there is nothing wet until 3/4 the way down the long block.
Suggestions or answers on a postcard are welcome.
Evening.
I have done the following ;
Undid the dipstick bolt, tugged the tube, put it back , retorqued
Retorqued the cam cover bolts
Cleaned the engine block/sump up as best as I can.
I then ran the engine upto temp this afternoon, water was warm ( 90degC upto 96degC at one point due to being in my garage ) and oil was indicated 65-67degC and running 32psi idle and around 72psi when I was revving and holding to 7k RPM.
I inspected the sump , and all around and got warm fingers so I left it a few hours.
I have identified what I think is the leak. Its what I can only describe as a blanking bolt in the sump. It appears to be weeping from the copper washer thats just infront of the bolt. A found a drip there , and only there. It would make sense as the bolt is at the lower part of the sump, where its angled down and forward and the oil would run.
My son was out with me and he was checking everywhere and that is all we can come up with.
Picture of the offending bolt on my 3500l sump ( I am being factious , its just a massive sump )
I do not plan on doing an oil change for around 9 months , so I might bodge it with some RTV for now and look for a more permanent solution when I have the oil out.
Ill put the trays back on the car and if it leaks like mad again Ill , well , I dunno!
I have done the following ;
Undid the dipstick bolt, tugged the tube, put it back , retorqued
Retorqued the cam cover bolts
Cleaned the engine block/sump up as best as I can.
I then ran the engine upto temp this afternoon, water was warm ( 90degC upto 96degC at one point due to being in my garage ) and oil was indicated 65-67degC and running 32psi idle and around 72psi when I was revving and holding to 7k RPM.
I inspected the sump , and all around and got warm fingers so I left it a few hours.
I have identified what I think is the leak. Its what I can only describe as a blanking bolt in the sump. It appears to be weeping from the copper washer thats just infront of the bolt. A found a drip there , and only there. It would make sense as the bolt is at the lower part of the sump, where its angled down and forward and the oil would run.
My son was out with me and he was checking everywhere and that is all we can come up with.
Picture of the offending bolt on my 3500l sump ( I am being factious , its just a massive sump )
I do not plan on doing an oil change for around 9 months , so I might bodge it with some RTV for now and look for a more permanent solution when I have the oil out.
Ill put the trays back on the car and if it leaks like mad again Ill , well , I dunno!
Turbell
Well-Known Member
+1 for above, dry threads on bolt and sump, sealant on bolt threads, I use Hylomar but make sure absolutely none of it gets in sump, I never replace washers, copper or other unless physically damaged, when they’re crushed, they don’t crush anymore so you can tighten them, and that’s it, no expansion/contraction. Especially in ali threads you can feel when it’s tight, without the crush, short spanner or a 3/8 drive ratchet
It’s just another new bit on invoice plus VAT that looks like it’s had something.
My opinion only, but mine never leak, car or bike......pisses out everywhere else mind.
It’s just another new bit on invoice plus VAT that looks like it’s had something.
My opinion only, but mine never leak, car or bike......pisses out everywhere else mind.
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Sure a man of your skills could switch the bolt out with minimal leakage.....just collect and leak in a nice clean tub and check/reuse 
Get super son to stick his finger over the sump hole while you do a F1 styleeee pit stop
Get super son to stick his finger over the sump hole while you do a F1 styleeee pit stop
Sure a man of your skills could switch the bolt out with minimal leakage.....just collect and leak in a nice clean tub and check/reuse
Get super son to stick his finger over the sump hole while you do a F1 styleeee pit stop
I could but.
1) the gap underneath the car isn’t big enough for an adult Bond to undo the bolt , whilst asking junior Bond to stick his finger in
2) I 100% cannot get a catch vessel in as well as 1)
On a 4 post lift , easy!
I am comfortable with RTV/Hylomar fix for now. It will get fixed correctly.
gordini stu
Well-Known Member
Undo it as much as you dare and ptfe tape on the exposed thread and wind it back in . Did it on cherry picker the other day when an oring had failed worked a treat .
Oh risky! This sounds like fun!
I do so love this car but sometimes!
I have now got VVTI rattle, when you leave the car overnight and start it I get a tiny rattle for less than a second and it shuts up, It does it just once for that day when it primes the oil.
Any fixes? From googleFU People say just leave it,
I also have the immo playing up, press the key fob light goes off, and then 2 minutes later the stack dash light returns when engine is running
Any tips for stopping that?
I have been into my garage this evening to look at what my ECU is logging. Other than my inside leg measurement it appears to have everything.
This is 1 page of 5...
I have also been curious as to what is under my front dash as I have some USB plug there that aren’t OEM.
I have done a [mention]johnfishcurtis[/mention] and been stuck down here for a bit.
This car was not meant for bigger boned people to be able to lotus position easily.
I have now got VVTI rattle, when you leave the car overnight and start it I get a tiny rattle for less than a second and it shuts up, It does it just once for that day when it primes the oil.
Any fixes? From googleFU People say just leave it,
I also have the immo playing up, press the key fob light goes off, and then 2 minutes later the stack dash light returns when engine is running
Any tips for stopping that?
I have been into my garage this evening to look at what my ECU is logging. Other than my inside leg measurement it appears to have everything.
This is 1 page of 5...
I have also been curious as to what is under my front dash as I have some USB plug there that aren’t OEM.
I have done a [mention]johnfishcurtis[/mention] and been stuck down here for a bit.
This car was not meant for bigger boned people to be able to lotus position easily.
DaveL485
Staff member
Fit an ign kill switch, crank it for a few extra rpm to build oil pressure, flip the switch to fire it as it cranks.
Thats a workaround , not a fix. I read that its the VVTI cam sprocket clogging. Ill get it changed ..
