This was my thought too, and it only happens when warm.
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Loltus Exige
- Thread starter andybond
- Start date
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- Tags
- car supercharger
sliding scale but 1076 rpm ultimately
So, been out today and no change.
I have done the following
1) The @Steve Swan approach - sprayed some flammable liquid around every mating face I can find - no job
2) Nipped up ( just in case ) every single nut / bolt I can find
3) Noted that on initial start its fine , well , slightly high idle but where I would expect it
4) Backed up the config on the ECU prior to tweaking
5) Validated that closed loop idle is ON and I have set it to learn idle
6) It seems to be affected once I have gone north of 3000rpm and its trying to compensate by bringing the revs to 2000rpm , or even 1500rpm and then gently oscillating between those values.
7) I can feel the car trying to pull me along when around 1800-2000rpm
The rest of the rev range feels fine
I have done the following
1) The @Steve Swan approach - sprayed some flammable liquid around every mating face I can find - no job
2) Nipped up ( just in case ) every single nut / bolt I can find
3) Noted that on initial start its fine , well , slightly high idle but where I would expect it
4) Backed up the config on the ECU prior to tweaking
5) Validated that closed loop idle is ON and I have set it to learn idle
6) It seems to be affected once I have gone north of 3000rpm and its trying to compensate by bringing the revs to 2000rpm , or even 1500rpm and then gently oscillating between those values.
7) I can feel the car trying to pull me along when around 1800-2000rpm
The rest of the rev range feels fine
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Well, you don't have an air leak anywhere, for sure. Weird how it can vary the rpm so much when the throttle butterfly is closed. It's not out of shape or anything??
In anticipation of my part arriving I have taken off the old TPS.
I have done a multimeter resistance check and its starts at ~.29ohm and goes to just under ~3.8 at WOT.
I have noticed though that its not a terribly smooth transition when simulating the TPS between .45 and .70. The figures seems to jump and I have a hard time making the numbers go up smoothy. It seems to go from .45 to .51 for example then steps to .58 drops to .53 and then voila , .71 and then I can get a smooth increment right to the top of the values.
Guess Ill only know for sure if its EOL when I put a new one on ...
I have done a multimeter resistance check and its starts at ~.29ohm and goes to just under ~3.8 at WOT.
I have noticed though that its not a terribly smooth transition when simulating the TPS between .45 and .70. The figures seems to jump and I have a hard time making the numbers go up smoothy. It seems to go from .45 to .51 for example then steps to .58 drops to .53 and then voila , .71 and then I can get a smooth increment right to the top of the values.
Guess Ill only know for sure if its EOL when I put a new one on ...
It does , I checked on my ECU.
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Is it a permanent wired earth? Your earth points ok in the usual lotus positions that can play up?
If perm and not switched earth can you give it a temp hard feed to see if fault clears and then go on the hunt for said issue?
If perm and not switched earth can you give it a temp hard feed to see if fault clears and then go on the hunt for said issue?
This is my plan , but I have been experiencing issues for a while TBH. Ill investigate another time
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Step 1 remove battery terminal 
so you don't jump to step 4 early 
so you don't jump to step 4 early
I have spent a couple of hours mostly swearing at the car. However I have fixed one issue. That being the IACV not getting power.
I wanted to validate it was 100% the IACV not working so I taped up the IACV port on the inlet after removing the air filter. Sure enough the car ran perfectly at 800rpm or so.
Next up was a 12v direct feed from the battery to the old IACV that I replaced.
It worked.
Thats good enough for me as now I know that I can use this as a test bench on my loom.
I took off more parts ; the ECU , and started looking at the loom. The IACV loom is a fly lead from somewhere underneath / behind the block, on the side of the driver. I undid most of the tape that was holding this together and lo and behold , a snapped wire.
I put the two wires together with some bodge tape and voila. Working IACV off the car.
I have then soldered it back together, sleeved it and tessa taped it whilst testing at various points with the old, unmounted IACV.
Ignore the voltage here - the IACV is 3 pin. One is earth , one seems to get 9ish volts, the other 12+v
Finally tested the one on the car and voila. A solid, stable idle.
Its now back together however its not perfect. The age old issue I had of the fuse I have to remove in the engine bay to stop the dash staying on is a mystery. I think, and its only a think its something to do with the alarm. I noted that sometimes the immo chirps when I press the plipper to deactivate, and sometimes it doesnt.
I also note that sometimes the car wont start, and a wiggle of the left of the two fuse boxes sorts it out.
However, at least the car is useable now. It was running -5 deg of timing and getting hot idling ( or bounce idling )
I wanted to validate it was 100% the IACV not working so I taped up the IACV port on the inlet after removing the air filter. Sure enough the car ran perfectly at 800rpm or so.
Next up was a 12v direct feed from the battery to the old IACV that I replaced.
It worked.
Thats good enough for me as now I know that I can use this as a test bench on my loom.
I took off more parts ; the ECU , and started looking at the loom. The IACV loom is a fly lead from somewhere underneath / behind the block, on the side of the driver. I undid most of the tape that was holding this together and lo and behold , a snapped wire.
I put the two wires together with some bodge tape and voila. Working IACV off the car.
I have then soldered it back together, sleeved it and tessa taped it whilst testing at various points with the old, unmounted IACV.
Ignore the voltage here - the IACV is 3 pin. One is earth , one seems to get 9ish volts, the other 12+v
Finally tested the one on the car and voila. A solid, stable idle.
Its now back together however its not perfect. The age old issue I had of the fuse I have to remove in the engine bay to stop the dash staying on is a mystery. I think, and its only a think its something to do with the alarm. I noted that sometimes the immo chirps when I press the plipper to deactivate, and sometimes it doesnt.
I also note that sometimes the car wont start, and a wiggle of the left of the two fuse boxes sorts it out.
However, at least the car is useable now. It was running -5 deg of timing and getting hot idling ( or bounce idling )
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Well done - I love those kind of finds/fixes and sure you said nicer things to the car after 
I would look to sort the fuse/relay blocks before it lets you down when you have a fun track day booked......or other less than useful timing.
Would see alarm as a secondary to the core wiring issue.
I used to have all sorts of fun with vx220 relay and fuse blocks in corner of the boot......along with the slightly well known connector of doom.
I would look to sort the fuse/relay blocks before it lets you down when you have a fun track day booked......or other less than useful timing.
Would see alarm as a secondary to the core wiring issue.
I used to have all sorts of fun with vx220 relay and fuse blocks in corner of the boot......along with the slightly well known connector of doom.
