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Loltus Exige

I had to take the head off the clunk bolt , and I needed to remove the metal bracket to let me create an inspection panel to see whats what.

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I then cut out an inspection panel so I could see if the captive nut was spinning, or something else

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It is the captive bolt that's spinning. I have some really small plyers that I can pinch the nut with to stop it spinning and the headless bolt now stops spinning.

I am awaiting some isopon40 to be delivered and I am going to place this inside the inspection chamber towards the bottom to get the nut to stop spinning again ( in theory ) Ill let that cure and give the headless bolt a twist to see if it breaks the isopol40 bond that's just been created.

Assuming it doesn't I am torn here as

1) I have found a nut that fits on the end of the headless bolt and will clamp the metal bracket that is used to hold the roof down. Its a non OE fix, but it works, and works well. Even with the captive nut twisting!
2) I could cut a groove in the headless bolt and try and unscrew the headless bolt out, but doing so could jeopardise 1) as the nut might not go back on any longer. If not I would have to goto . . .
3) Cut out the whole piece and wreck my headlining and reset in the captive nut.
 
I couldnt let it go.

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Happy days - that is the old clunk bolt with head cut off out.

Will tap the thread out as it appears to be a bit of a mess tomorrow and await the goo to hold the nut in place.
 
Hard to tell what's going on, even with pics, but from my experience with bonding stutt etc on grp cars, I'd be looking at ditching bolt that's in and putting another on through that's tack welded onto some sort of plate, basically if be aiming to get a decent surface area to get the adhesive on, if that makes sense?
Bolt through a hole in a plate and welded won't shift on plate, then if plate is made to fit into what looks like a right angled recess, some two pack adhesive on a good few inches of area won't budge either?......I ain't there so I'm only making assumptions.
 
Hard to tell what's going on, even with pics, but from my experience with bonding stutt etc on grp cars, I'd be looking at ditching bolt that's in and putting another on through that's tack welded onto some sort of plate, basically if be aiming to get a decent surface area to get the adhesive on, if that makes sense?
Bolt through a hole in a plate and welded won't shift on plate, then if plate is made to fit into what looks like a right angled recess, some two pack adhesive on a good few inches of area won't budge either?......I ain't there so I'm only making assumptions.

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Easiest way to see it is above. Item 22 was spinning the captive nut thats near item 17. I have cut in to the rear side of the roof so I could hold onto this nut with a set of long nose pliers. I had to cut off the head of bolt 22 ( clunk bolt ) to remove piece 18 as it was obsructing my access to create a hole to hold the captive nut.

Now I have removed 22 , I have some goo ( isopon40 ) that is as good as the OE stuff to hold the captive nut back in place coming Monday. Ill full the void I created with it and get a new clunk bolt from Lotus.

The existing nut thats enbedded but spinning in the roof has a plate on it, thats just spinning. I think a shed load of the adhesive stuff should sort out out.
 
I get you now, the captive nut is the problem as it's not captive anymore, how was it fixed to 17 to start with ? Assuming 17 is metal?
I was thinking it was a captive bolt bonded in.
Fixings on GRP cars are always fun, GTA's use lots of rivnuts into GRP.......add a few years and some corrosion, they spin and you can't get off what you need to get off to access what's wrong!
 
Spent many many many hours swearing and battling with vx220's when removing clams especially front one with windscreen mounting point where mild steel captive nuts seized and or just spin, sill bolt similar joys. Saying that rad mounting ones can be a bugger also.....hang on think its juat plastic cqrs :D;)
 
I get you now, the captive nut is the problem as it's not captive anymore, how was it fixed to 17 to start with ? Assuming 17 is metal?
I was thinking it was a captive bolt bonded in.
Fixings on GRP cars are always fun, GTA's use lots of rivnuts into GRP.......add a few years and some corrosion, they spin and you can't get off what you need to get off to access what's wrong!
Correct - 17 is metal.
 
I'd be tempted to rivnut that I think.
Due to the location , I am not sure it can be rivnut.

I have two options really.

1) Tap it, then bond it back in place with a shedload of isopon40
2) Cut it out, make a new square base , tack a m8*1.25 nut to the new square base and rebond it to the bit I just cut out then bond it all back in
 
This afternoon straight after work I have managed to ;

Tap with my 1.25*M8 the thread. It took some doing and blunted my tap at the end. My son was pinching the metal part that was visible whilst tapping and after a short while the tap turned freely. Success.

I can now get a m8 straight in and out with minimal fuss. This will yet to be seen when its on the car!

I then mixed the isopon40 up in a small quantity and tried to use the spatula to wedge it in. No dice. Too small. Used my fingers and pressed loads into the void to try and hold it all together. I have put a m8 in place to try and create the void for the bolt to reside in. I am hoping it doesnt set and stick to the bolt.

Pic :

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Car has had a thorough service care of [mention]seriouslylotus[/mention]

I have on back order a new tensioner for my supercharger to have fitted yet

I also treated the car to some goodies-
1) gearbox cooler
2) new removable steering wheel so I can get in and out of my car easier with these seats!

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New tensioner fitted and belt at SeriouslyLotus. Great service and a bonus sausage and bacon bap for lunch. Winner!

Back to the car ; Kin hell. It appears to have gone all fast again post belt tensioner fitting. I wonder how many horses had gone?

Now have some more goodies to be fitted in the quest to finally kill off my c64 gearbox..
 
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