Immobiliser I think?

[Shutler]

I tried my key with the button to unlock the Vee, but it didn't work so I proceeded to try my spare key which didn't work either. (Likely flat batteries in both keys).

However I wanted to take her out for a drive anyway so I proceeded to unlock the passenger door with the key manually and the alarm went off (seems stupid really).

So I locked the door back up and didn't bother attempting to start the Vee and go for a spin.

2 days later I have new batteries in my keys and want to take the Vee out, but the key button doesn't work on either (strange). So I opened the passenger door (alarm goes off again). Only this time I put the key in the ignition and turned it to light the dash up, which shut the alarm up.

But now my problem is the key buttons still don't work and the Vee now won't start anymore!!

Everytime I turn the key on the clock is reset to 0:00 and the immobiliser light continues to flash, I also get a variety of random clicking noises


Please any help would be amazing....

 

[Brembov6]

Sounds potentially like a few issues maybe. Clicking noise is that a mechanical sound or electronic?

It is worth opening the key up, it has a tiny black button which can break away from the green electronic pad thing so needs soldered back. I had to get this done with one of my keys.

 

[Shutler]

Thanks, so I have checked both keys and the black button is still intact on both. The clicking noise comes from just below the glove box near the bonnet release (sounds electrical, almost like a switch/click sound).

The same clicking noise happens when I attempt to start the engine along with another noise that comes from directly behind the speedo/display (an electrical swirling sound).

Also radio doesn't work, and when I turn the ignition just for the dash to light up and switch the hazard lights on the climate control flashes like an indicator and the electrical noise behind the speedo is constant

 

[Brembov6]

Is the battery new (main car battery) , if not I'd start here by replacing. Sure on all Clios a reset process works by putting the key in x amount of times for the immobiliser. I'll try and find it and pass on.

 

[Shutler]

The battery is about 7 years old but always kept on a battery conditioner over the winter, I will pop it back on for 24 hours and see what happens with that.

Google and YouTube chuck up some various ideas (maybe a key chip sync issue) but no luck with any of this yet

Cheers for finding out anything that could potentially help :approve:

 

[Brembov6]

Might be worth trying a few of this

key

key2

key3

Does the red light flash on the key when it's pressed? Battery sounds old even if it's been charged could well be related.

 

[Shutler]

The car battery was certainly flat, I assume when the first alarm went off and I left the car for 2 days it somehow killed the battery. It still hasn't quite fully charged yet. It hopefully looks like it was nothing more than a dead car battery and dead key batteries.

Thanks for the links :approve: I will try these if the keys are still not working when the car battery is fully charged.

 

[Noyzboy]

I had the key fob not working/ open door / alarm goes off issue.
This was a flat main battery caused by the infamous defective hazard warning light switch draining the battery cos the drain was more than the trickle charger could cope with.

 

[Ben123]

I had the key fob not working/ open door / alarm goes off issue.
This was a flat main battery caused by the infamous defective hazard warning light switch draining the battery cos the drain was more than the trickle charger could cope with.

That's a new one on me, what's the story with the hazard warning light switch?

 

[Shutler]

I had the key fob not working/ open door / alarm goes off issue.
This was a flat main battery caused by the infamous defective hazard warning light switch draining the battery cos the drain was more than the trickle charger could cope with.

I've had to get a new battery. my CTEK charger shows a battery fault on the dead battery. (It won't hold charge) do you know if the hazard light issue would continue to effect the new battery?

 

[rustedandrotten]

Dead cell in battery, dropped voltage and possibly poor earth, regular problem with current battery technology.

 

[Noyzboy]

I had the key fob not working/ open door / alarm goes off issue.
This was a flat main battery caused by the infamous defective hazard warning light switch draining the battery cos the drain was more than the trickle charger could cope with.

That's a new one on me, what's the story with the hazard warning light switch?

I bought a £10 chinese hazard light switch from ebay to replace a defective one that wouldn't turn on.

Then with the Vee tucked away in it's garage out of sight the tofu dreg hazard switch turned itself on and drained the battery.
The first time Mrs Noyzboy said "take a look in the garage" and there was the Vee with all it's hazards flashing. I managed to stop it.
Second time its performance was unseen and it drained the battery.

The replacement switch was a £60 Renault marked switch from RPD.

 

[Shutler]

New battery fitted this morning and all is fixed. The Vee starts and both keys work. [smilie=yay.gif]

Turns out it was nothing more than battery trouble after all :rollseyes:

Looks as if the key batteries had died then setting the alarm off killed the car battery as well.

 

[Ben123]

I had the key fob not working/ open door / alarm goes off issue.
This was a flat main battery caused by the infamous defective hazard warning light switch draining the battery cos the drain was more than the trickle charger could cope with.

That's a new one on me, what's the story with the hazard warning light switch?

I bought a £10 chinese hazard light switch from ebay to replace a defective one that wouldn't turn on.

Then with the Vee tucked away in it's garage out of sight the tofu dreg hazard switch turned itself on and drained the battery.
The first time Mrs Noyzboy said "take a look in the garage" and there was the Vee with all it's hazards flashing. I managed to stop it.
Second time its performance was unseen and it drained the battery.

The replacement switch was a £60 Renault marked switch from RPD.

Aaaaahhhh. I thought you mean infamous, as in it affected every hazard switch....OK all understood, Knowledge Base doesn't need updating to suit

 

[Sarria]

I believe the keys don't need battery to start the car, it's just for the remote opening of doors.

Just try removing the battery from a key and start the engine, should work.

 

[Ben123]

I believe the keys don't need battery to start the car, it's just for the remote opening of doors.

Just try removing the battery from a key and start the engine, should work.

That's also my understanding, the battery is needed just to transmit the unlock RF. I believe the immobiliser works with a receive coil in the ignition barrel itself, and the key is basically a passive chip (passive RFID I guess). The ignition barrel coil is what "powers" the RFID chip inside the key itself, so it isn't reliant on the key battery being good.

In Alan's case though, it was the car battery that had gone flat (as well as the keys)...hence no start.

 

[Noyzboy]

This may be useful.

My car is garaged and on a trickle charger
The trickle charger is wired on a long wire from the battery over the frunk such that the CTEK 12V connector plug hangs out the front of the bonnet. So I can charge up a dead battery from a battery charger without having to get into the car to open the bonnet.

This saved me