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Aldo
Well-Known Member
I've been mobbed with work recently which hasn't left me with much Megane time. So I decided to send the car to Rentec in Edinburgh to get the belts done. Couldn't fault their service, or their pricing and they spun it round in about 5 hours.
Only a couple of little odds and ends to do before sending it for alignment.
Also traded the family barge Leon FR ST in for something a little bigger, petrol rather than diesel and auto. I had initially ruled the Octavias out as they are hard to find with a reasonable spec, but this popped up local and it ticked all the boxes.
Only a couple of little odds and ends to do before sending it for alignment.
Also traded the family barge Leon FR ST in for something a little bigger, petrol rather than diesel and auto. I had initially ruled the Octavias out as they are hard to find with a reasonable spec, but this popped up local and it ticked all the boxes.
Aldo
Well-Known Member
Not a great deal been going on with the Megane recently. Been trying to use it before the weather turns nasty.
Changed the anti rotation links, ARB drop links and fitted a new set of Beru coils. Embarrassingly, these have been sitting on my toolbox for months and I've just never got round to it.
About 2 miles after, it threw up P0229 fault code for underboost. Ran a smoke test on it for boost leaks and the only area found to be iffy was the seal at the MAP sensor. Addressed that and it seems to be behaving itself now.
I've done sub 800 miles since it's last MOT in January, which has made me consider advertising it for sale. We will see...
Changed the anti rotation links, ARB drop links and fitted a new set of Beru coils. Embarrassingly, these have been sitting on my toolbox for months and I've just never got round to it.
About 2 miles after, it threw up P0229 fault code for underboost. Ran a smoke test on it for boost leaks and the only area found to be iffy was the seal at the MAP sensor. Addressed that and it seems to be behaving itself now.
I've done sub 800 miles since it's last MOT in January, which has made me consider advertising it for sale. We will see...
Aldo
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately the time has come to move this on. I'll have had it three years nearly and its up there with the favourite cars I've owned. However, it spends most of its life on the drive or in the garage. Which makes it hard to justify keeping.
In true Renault fashion though, the clutch began intermittently slipping when winding it on. So in preparation for selling, I've fitted a new OEM clutch kit and a LUK slave cylinder (OE was on back order). That was yesterday's task which went somewhat to plan.
For ref, here's an outline of what's involved if doing it at home on the deck.
Remove the battery, battery box with ECU, associated plastics and tie the cables and ECU connectors etc to the side. Remove the airbox.
Front end up off the ground, remove the wheels. Slacken hub nuts.
Disconnect the droplink, antirotation link, track rod end.
Remove the brake caliper and tie up to the spring. Remove the disc.
Disconnect the ABS sensor.
Remover the damper pinch bolt and lower ball joint nut.
Remove the complete hub assembly by coming off the ball joint, forward and down off the damper. Careful to leave the driveshaft in place. Do this to both sides.
Undertray off and drain box oil. Remove nearside shaft with a tug. Slacken the mid bearing clamp on the long driveshaft and pull out.
Disconnect the aux waterpump bracket at the rear of the subframe.
Disconnect the downpipe exhaust mount.
In the driver footwell, remove the steering column pinch bolt, take note of position and pull column off of the spline.
4 bolts hold the rear subframe on with two additional bolts holding a brace on. And two bolts next to the cylindrical subframe mounts connect the rad support to the main subframe.
Remove and lower subframe and move to the side.
Front bumper off. This gives access to remove the 4 bolts at the front of the rad support bar. Two large bolts at either side to be removed also. Disconnect clips and fasteners and lower down. Rad etc all stays in place.
You now have access to the gearbox. Support the engine and remove the nearside gearbox mount and attached bracket. Also remove the gearbox mount thats bolted to the chassis leg. Disconnect shift cables, sensors and clutch line.
Now ready to remove all the bolts from the bell housing. I just used a big of cardboard to take note of what went where. Then lowered the box with an engine crane.
Clutch swap is straight forward and then work back through the above. Finish with bleeding the slave cyl before dropping the battery/plastics back in.
Not a great job to be doing on the ground but not terrible. I started at 8 and had it back on its wheels by 1630. That was two of us.
When i jacked the car up i noticed one of the front coil springs had snapped. But KW UK had them in stock and I've got one coming today. Just irritating that I didn't know beforehand and could have done it at the same time.
Only pic I have since it was a pretty busy spannering session. Also had some mates lending a hand which was mint.
And a pic of my mates garage queen. 240hp. Fast.
In true Renault fashion though, the clutch began intermittently slipping when winding it on. So in preparation for selling, I've fitted a new OEM clutch kit and a LUK slave cylinder (OE was on back order). That was yesterday's task which went somewhat to plan.
For ref, here's an outline of what's involved if doing it at home on the deck.
Remove the battery, battery box with ECU, associated plastics and tie the cables and ECU connectors etc to the side. Remove the airbox.
Front end up off the ground, remove the wheels. Slacken hub nuts.
Disconnect the droplink, antirotation link, track rod end.
Remove the brake caliper and tie up to the spring. Remove the disc.
Disconnect the ABS sensor.
Remover the damper pinch bolt and lower ball joint nut.
Remove the complete hub assembly by coming off the ball joint, forward and down off the damper. Careful to leave the driveshaft in place. Do this to both sides.
Undertray off and drain box oil. Remove nearside shaft with a tug. Slacken the mid bearing clamp on the long driveshaft and pull out.
Disconnect the aux waterpump bracket at the rear of the subframe.
Disconnect the downpipe exhaust mount.
In the driver footwell, remove the steering column pinch bolt, take note of position and pull column off of the spline.
4 bolts hold the rear subframe on with two additional bolts holding a brace on. And two bolts next to the cylindrical subframe mounts connect the rad support to the main subframe.
Remove and lower subframe and move to the side.
Front bumper off. This gives access to remove the 4 bolts at the front of the rad support bar. Two large bolts at either side to be removed also. Disconnect clips and fasteners and lower down. Rad etc all stays in place.
You now have access to the gearbox. Support the engine and remove the nearside gearbox mount and attached bracket. Also remove the gearbox mount thats bolted to the chassis leg. Disconnect shift cables, sensors and clutch line.
Now ready to remove all the bolts from the bell housing. I just used a big of cardboard to take note of what went where. Then lowered the box with an engine crane.
Clutch swap is straight forward and then work back through the above. Finish with bleeding the slave cyl before dropping the battery/plastics back in.
Not a great job to be doing on the ground but not terrible. I started at 8 and had it back on its wheels by 1630. That was two of us.
When i jacked the car up i noticed one of the front coil springs had snapped. But KW UK had them in stock and I've got one coming today. Just irritating that I didn't know beforehand and could have done it at the same time.
Only pic I have since it was a pretty busy spannering session. Also had some mates lending a hand which was mint.
And a pic of my mates garage queen. 240hp. Fast.
Aldo
Well-Known Member
KW posted the spring out mega quick, received it yesterday morning. Tomorrow is meant to be dry, so hoping to get it fitted. I'll get the front in the air and clean the both coilovers and give them a coat of ACF50.
Also, since having the front end stripped, I've got "check braking system, check ESP, check ABS". So that's another thing to address. Possibly low on brake fluid after the bleeding, I'll visit that first...
Also, since having the front end stripped, I've got "check braking system, check ESP, check ABS". So that's another thing to address. Possibly low on brake fluid after the bleeding, I'll visit that first...
Aldo
Well-Known Member
I borrowed a slightly more comprehensive OBD scanner today which allowed me to look at the ABS issue. Has flagged up RH wheel speed sensor.
I've double checked the connections and their condition, which seem fine. I can only imagine I've damaged the cores when I've been wrestling the hubs off the car.
Order placed with RPD today.
I've double checked the connections and their condition, which seem fine. I can only imagine I've damaged the cores when I've been wrestling the hubs off the car.
Order placed with RPD today.
Aldo
Well-Known Member
I've finally got the Megane to a position that its ready for sale. Things are never simple with the clutch job turning into a coil spring, to an ABS sensor and two new tyres. And now I've spent a little bit of cash on it, I'm back using it and have fallen back in with it.
Unfortunately it'll still need to go. 4 cars in the household and only two drivers isn't really sensible these days.
Unfortunately it'll still need to go. 4 cars in the household and only two drivers isn't really sensible these days.
Purchased this a few weeks ago, only a 370 mile commute home.
Couple of subtle changes, had to change the plate
also a little red strip on the diffuser. Black badges all around as well. Used some gloss black plastidip on the splitter to see how it looked, so far so good but I’ll order a new one and some stage.
Not sure what else I’ll do to it to be honest, it’s pretty decent as is
Couple of subtle changes, had to change the plate
also a little red strip on the diffuser. Black badges all around as well. Used some gloss black plastidip on the splitter to see how it looked, so far so good but I’ll order a new one and some stage. Not sure what else I’ll do to it to be honest, it’s pretty decent as is
Aldo
Well-Known Member
Purchased this a few weeks ago, only a 370 mile commute home.
Couple of subtle changes, had to change the plate
Not sure what else I’ll do to it to be honest, it’s pretty decent as is
Looking good!
I made moves to change the splitter but RPD wouldn't post it to me! Kinda went on the back burner after that.
Car Pinstripe 12mm - Red | Halfords UK
Shop the latest Improve the appearance of your car's bodywork with the red Pinstripe. at Halfords UK
www.halfords.com
Ian_R
Well-Known Member
Cheers for that, easy enough to get the bend round the blade from this stuff? so it's one continuous stripe
Car Pinstripe 12mm - Red | Halfords UK
Shop the latest Improve the appearance of your car's bodywork with the red Pinstripe. at Halfords UK
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