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Few valver conversion questions

G

Guest

Well it doesnt take a genius to work out what Dave and I have planned for his green rt and the blue valver!

What Im wanting to know is do we have to use the valver bonnet or can we get away with the standard one, even if we need to cut a support for some clearance.

And will we need to swap the interior loom to get the gauges working right or is the wiring already there.

The biggy though is whats the script with the immobilser?

Do we figure out how to bypass it or do we do a key, ir reciever and something else swap?

All help much appreciated.

John and Dave
 
if you use a phase 1 ecu it will bypass the immobiliser as they never had one.

im sure you can get away with a standard bonnet as the vent was put on the grp a rally car for an air feed, but just on road cars for looks iirc, and ive seen a couple of valvers running normal bonnets

i think you can get away without swapping the internal loom although im not really sure on that one someone else will have to answer that dude.

hope this helps anyway
alex
 
Its a ph2 but its a complete running car so can take everything from it if that helps the immobiliser situation.

Cheers though Alex
 
that might work, but you would have to use the blip key from the valver, i suppose you could change the ignition barrel over as well and just use the valver key for everything.
 
yeah think you can swap the lot over and it will run fine. as for the loam i think the relevant bits are there also.

but i think you have to run the valver bonnet... :?
 
Can just swap the metal bits from the plip, much easier than changing locks!

If everything is there for the loom then that saves a fair bit of time. I do have a spare 1.4 loom so will see if i can see anything obvious.

mmmm may just have to hold onto the bonnet till its all done and wait and see. Would be good to know for certain before we start though!
 
yeah i think so as the locks have no electrical gizmo's in them. think its just the plips ecu and maybe another black box.. :?
 
Im sure you need the bonnet due to the engine temps, i've seen pics of a valver manifold glowing red hot as it was running a standard bonnet...
 
Also, I think it does dent as it hits the inlet (thinking back to one of bass_directs creations :D
 
As said I believe you can swap all the bits over to get the ph2 ecu to work, but imo it would be a lot easier just to get a Ph1 ECU for about £15 and pop that in as it would be guaranteed to work and you wouldn't face any future problems if you have sunroof leaks etc.

I have been told before by a few people that you can run a standard bonnet, however you may have to take a hammer to the underside of it from what I have been told to create just enough room - can definately be used though with minor changes. Might be slightly different if its a ph3 bonnet though if thats the one you are using?

The wiring should be there for the guages on the 1.4 loom iirc, but not 100% sure on that.
 
rt bonnet is no good for a conversion as i have found out. the bonnet touches the inlet and also dont allow any heat to escape from engine bay
 
donsrno1":9cnlkpxt said:
As said I believe you can swap all the bits over to get the ph2 ecu to work, but imo it would be a lot easier just to get a Ph1 ECU for about £15 and pop that in as it would be guaranteed to work and you wouldn't face any future problems if you have sunroof leaks etc.

I have been told before by a few people that you can run a standard bonnet, however you may have to take a hammer to the underside of it from what I have been told to create just enough room - can definately be used though with minor changes. Might be slightly different if its a ph3 bonnet though if thats the one you are using?

The wiring should be there for the guages on the 1.4 loom iirc, but not 100% sure on that.

Might just see if we can find a ph1 ecu then, would save hassle by the sounds of it.

Ph3 is the same bonnet apart from round the headlights so im sure we'll be able to adjust it.

Not too concerned about the temps, my 172 doesn't have a vent and it stands to reason it must get just as hot so I reckon it'll be ok. Manifolds glowing red is fine, doesnt do them any damage!
 
For the love of god make sure you have a decent manifold heatsheild if it's going to be glowing red!! :oops:
 
I am gutted to be killing another valver. :(

Its a nice car, but its trully rotten and its not 100% straight.

Still its memory will live on in a better shell. :)

Thanks for all the info so far. Should be intresting :p
 
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