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Egr valve
- Thread starter reevio
- Start date
reevio
Active Member
Rigth after abit of digging about removed hose from turbo and airbox to find end was perished so sucking in bay air cleaned the turbo up as its was sligthy capped due to unfiltered air and joined it with a 5 ply straigth 2.5 inch boost hose that i had slips over both the turbo and air feed nicely found that the breather pipe on the cam cover had come off so put a new jubillee clip on that boost solenoid was sticking so removed sprayed with carb cleaner and now thats fine and what was my first problem was under the tray next to the pas bottle remove top and remove cover there you will find the evap solenoid for the fuel tank mine was sticking cleaned and was fine for about 10mins got a new one and now everything is fine so if you every get the serv ligth on along with the traction control ligth followed by the engine management light flashing you will get logged 2 codes p300 and p314 random cyclinder miss fire and unknown cyclinder missfire because if that vapour valve sticks the air to fuel ratio goes out the window and car just goes into limp mode cheers ho[es this helps anyone out couple of numbers if ever needed boost solenoid 7700115002 and evap solenoid 8200024427
reevio
Active Member
yeah sorry also i think your spell checkers broke too
Chris H
master of boobies
discconnect the battery, then either wait a million hours for it to reset or short the pos and neg together to discharge the caps etc.
This then takes fuel trims etc back to zero, also resets the radio so have the code handy.
I had to do that last time when the pedal and TB were playing up, still need to reset the clock :lol:
This then takes fuel trims etc back to zero, also resets the radio so have the code handy.
I had to do that last time when the pedal and TB were playing up, still need to reset the clock :lol:
reevio
Active Member
rigth ive brougth my self an lead and software to onnect to my pc i have the software sent via email and the lead should be here tmrw its gives you all the info like coolant temp,air temp,rpm,air flow,mph,oxy sensors,trouble codes,map sensor and lots of things i dont understand like fuel trim ect ect cab also do you 0.60 ect drag strip slip and has a rolling road feature too so what the hell am i looking for
bidderman1969
detailer
sanity? lol
Chris H
master of boobies
from a cold start check that temps are the same or within a few degrees, the coolant should warm up faster and get hotter than the inlet
throttle position make sure it increases smoothly when the pedal is pushed.
map value should be quite low at idle, 30 or so increasing as yours is a turbo it will be over 100, 100 ish is atmospheric. make sure it climbs smoothly.
STF and LTF, these ideally should be low figures. ltf say less than 5 and stf cycling pos and neg values.
if it has a graphing options use it and check for drop outs. Its sampling rate may not be sufficient for this unless its a big issue.
throttle position make sure it increases smoothly when the pedal is pushed.
map value should be quite low at idle, 30 or so increasing as yours is a turbo it will be over 100, 100 ish is atmospheric. make sure it climbs smoothly.
STF and LTF, these ideally should be low figures. ltf say less than 5 and stf cycling pos and neg values.
if it has a graphing options use it and check for drop outs. Its sampling rate may not be sufficient for this unless its a big issue.
reevio
Active Member
Rigth Mr H i have some data if you would kindly have a look for me
all reading are sat on my drive
engine coolant temp 103 max fan kicks in cools it to about 95
intake air temp 47 max
calculated load value 25.5%
long term fuel trim 43.4%
intake manifold pressure 40kpa
engine idle 794
boost pressure 0.40 bar
absolute throttle position 15.7%
short term fuel trim bank one -19.5%
short term fuel trim bank 3 21.9%
ignition advance cyclinder 1 7.5
i also have graphs ect also fitted a new lambda yesterday as i could hear that the ceramic in the old one had broken and once the car had got up to temp i turned it off and one and the fault had cleared ? laguna 2 i hate you
all reading are sat on my drive
engine coolant temp 103 max fan kicks in cools it to about 95
intake air temp 47 max
calculated load value 25.5%
long term fuel trim 43.4%
intake manifold pressure 40kpa
engine idle 794
boost pressure 0.40 bar
absolute throttle position 15.7%
short term fuel trim bank one -19.5%
short term fuel trim bank 3 21.9%
ignition advance cyclinder 1 7.5
i also have graphs ect also fitted a new lambda yesterday as i could hear that the ceramic in the old one had broken and once the car had got up to temp i turned it off and one and the fault had cleared ? laguna 2 i hate you
Chris H
master of boobies
did you do a hard reset?
The LTF figure, thats ADDING 43.7% fuel to the base map to get it to idle! Theres something very wrong there,
Fair enough the STF neg figure is taking that away but is the stf cycling?
The throttle position is reading high, 15 odd percent means the throttle plates not closed or it is but the ecu doesn't think it is.
Also bank 3, you got a special new engine type in there? Bank 1 is all you should be showing, bank 2 is the other bank on a V6/8/whatever. Banks 3 and 4 are the other banks in a W configuration engine.
hard reset then go take it on at least one drive cycle. To save me going through a drive cycle read here
OBD II Drive Cycle (reset car diagnostic monitors )
or
Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
or
General Motors Driving Cycle
Basically it has to do all this to check it conforms to emission compliance which is the only parameter all vehicles aim for.
the other figures seem ok but the fuel trims are WAY out. of course if the vehicle hasn't completed a full drive cycle since the new lambda has been fitted it will read like this. Hard reset and a good drive is a quick shortcut rather than waiting for it to adapt over ages driving.
The LTF figure, thats ADDING 43.7% fuel to the base map to get it to idle! Theres something very wrong there,
Fair enough the STF neg figure is taking that away but is the stf cycling?
The throttle position is reading high, 15 odd percent means the throttle plates not closed or it is but the ecu doesn't think it is.
Also bank 3, you got a special new engine type in there? Bank 1 is all you should be showing, bank 2 is the other bank on a V6/8/whatever. Banks 3 and 4 are the other banks in a W configuration engine.
hard reset then go take it on at least one drive cycle. To save me going through a drive cycle read here
OBD II Drive Cycle (reset car diagnostic monitors )
or
Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
or
General Motors Driving Cycle
Basically it has to do all this to check it conforms to emission compliance which is the only parameter all vehicles aim for.
the other figures seem ok but the fuel trims are WAY out. of course if the vehicle hasn't completed a full drive cycle since the new lambda has been fitted it will read like this. Hard reset and a good drive is a quick shortcut rather than waiting for it to adapt over ages driving.
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