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NathanH21
Active Member
First breakdown of many. Boost pipe split, to be fair the whole hose was very perished.
On another note, my new header tank and HEL turbo oil feed hose turned up, not had time to fit them yet but planning to do cambelt, waterpump, oil and coolant change and valve clearances next month so i'll probably do it all at once. I also had the wheels balanced which has made a huge difference.
Ive also got a rattle from the osr wheel area, only noticeable at low speed, like a ticking noise with road speed but disappears when you apply the hand brake?!
Other than that just enjoying driving it!
On another note, my new header tank and HEL turbo oil feed hose turned up, not had time to fit them yet but planning to do cambelt, waterpump, oil and coolant change and valve clearances next month so i'll probably do it all at once. I also had the wheels balanced which has made a huge difference.
Ive also got a rattle from the osr wheel area, only noticeable at low speed, like a ticking noise with road speed but disappears when you apply the hand brake?!
Other than that just enjoying driving it!
NathanH21
Active Member
Thanks @la21t ill drop you a PM. Also just read your PM @andybond about skimlinks, I apologise, all the stuff Ive purchased so far could have contributed to the site. Anything else I purchase in the future will be via TR 
I purchased a new hose from a company called Viper. Its a 60mm x 150mm double bellow silicone hose in black. Cost £27 delivered. Ive stopped driving the 21 until it turns up. In the meantime Ive been driving my 182 Trophy which I havnt driven for months! It reminded me why I still have it 9 years on :af:
I purchased a new hose from a company called Viper. Its a 60mm x 150mm double bellow silicone hose in black. Cost £27 delivered. Ive stopped driving the 21 until it turns up. In the meantime Ive been driving my 182 Trophy which I havnt driven for months! It reminded me why I still have it 9 years on :af:
DaveL485
Staff member
Most common fault on a 21 Turbo, full stop.
Do the cambelt tensioner too. Make sure the waterpump has the fitting for the turbo water feed, a lot of them dont. The cambelt is 115 teeth by 3/4 inch (19mm).
Use spark plugs BP7EFVX gapped to .55mm, and synthetic 5w50 oil. Best do gearbox oil too its often neglected, use synthetic 85w90.
Valve clearances are 0.10 to 0.15 inlet, 0.20-0.25 exhaust, I usually set to 0.10 and 0.20, must be a cold engine.
Anti rattle springs missing.
la21t
Well-Known Member
I run a 10w50 and always have on the basis that the handbook said 'Elf Special Synthese 10w50' (or 15w50).
Was never a 5w though. Id use thicker mate.
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DaveL485
Staff member
You obviously dont understand oil viscosity, because for all intents and purposes for the majority of engine runtime 5w50 is the same viscosity as 10w50. I will attempt to explain with some text plagiarised from the internet, but dumbed down a bit just for you
Viscosity (a fluid's resistance to flow) is rated at 0° F (represented by the number preceding the "W" for Winter) and at 212° F (represented by the second number in the viscosity designation). So 10W-30 oil has less viscosity when cold and hot than 20W-50. Engine oil thins as it heats and thickens as it cools so with the right additives to help it resist thinning too much, an oil can be rated for one viscosity when cold, another when hot. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number (10W-40 versus 10W-30, for example). Within reason, thicker oil generally seals better and maintains a better film of lubrication between moving parts.
At the low-temperature end, oil has to be resistant to thickening so that it flows more easily to all the moving parts in your engine. A 5W oil is typically what's recommended for winter use. Once the engine is running, the oil heats up. The second number in the viscosity rating--the "40" in 10W-40, for example--tells you that the oil will stay thicker at high temperatures than one with a lower second number--the "30" in 10W-30, for example.
So, I suggest a 5w50 because the 5w means its fairly thin when cold, comparatively, and flows out to the nooks and crannies much easier which is good. The 50 then means that as it heats up it still retains a bit of 'thickness' instead of going like water and we need that for these old, lower tolerance engines that have been running for 20 years. In my 172 which is a more modern engine I use 5w30 which is the same cold viscosity but thinner hot. Remember that the two viscosity numbers are unrelated to each other. They give a cold viscosity and a hot viscosity.
We can go on if you like and talk about detergents, dispersants, antiwear agents, friction modifiers, pour-point depressants, antioxidants, foam inhibitors and corrosion inhibitors
Also bear in mind the way oil technology has improved over the last three decades, and how much better our synthetic oils are now.
DaveL485
Staff member
Am I not allowed to learn and change opinion as I do so? I can even tell you the thing that pushed me to switch what oil I used - Roland Greenwoods red Quadra. Seeing inside that 100k engine after a life or 5w50 (or 10w60) was an instant awakening. It was -so- good.
Only trying to help anyway, you can take whatever oil you want and insert it firmly in your anal cavity.
la21t
Well-Known Member
Yes you can dear.
Ive always used 10w50, I used to get Mobil Motorsport silly cheap and then when that died out I started buying Silkolene. It was handy that it was same oil for M3 as Id just buy 20litres at once.
I love our morning banter. We should just live together, we could spoon then too
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Ive always used 10w50, I used to get Mobil Motorsport silly cheap and then when that died out I started buying Silkolene. It was handy that it was same oil for M3 as Id just buy 20litres at once.
I love our morning banter. We should just live together, we could spoon then too
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
DaveL485
Staff member
If I could transfer your mind to a Cobie Smulders body i'd put a ring on it
la21t
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a prepubescent skateboarder.If I could transfer your mind to a Cobie Smulders body i'd put a ring on it
Just your type then
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NathanH21
Active Member
Finally got round to fitting the new hose. Its a great fit and looks OE. I still wasnt happy with how the clutch felt, very stiff still. Took it all apart again as when I fitted the bushes I noticed the master cylinder push rod to pedal was just metal on metal and had worn both parts resulting in slack and both parts needing to be replaced. Machined a new stub and welded it on, then made a new rod using some threaded bar and a small rose joint. Sadly no photos of the finished product.
Also noticed from my Haynes manual that the pedal assembly was missing its helper spring... I wondered what that thing was ratting around in the door pocket... Fitted it back on and wow! that's the clutch sorted.
Also noticed from my Haynes manual that the pedal assembly was missing its helper spring... I wondered what that thing was ratting around in the door pocket... Fitted it back on and wow! that's the clutch sorted.
DaveL485
Staff member
The spring capsule makes the pedal 17% lighter after half travel. Useless fact of the day
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