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Difference between standard actuator and a -31?

S

sonof

hi all again (although probably just daveL!!!!),
is there any way of telling the difference between the 2 just by looking at them?
is the actuator pipe connection on a different side on one than the other?
or has someone just put mine back on 180 degrees wrong:hahm:
cheers,
pat:guitar:
 
I think (& dont quote me on this) that on the -31 actuators the outlet point points in the same direction but on the -34 actuators the outlets point the opposite direction!!!

Also the rods are usually thicker in diameter than the standard actuators.

The part number is usually stamped in the front of them.

Have you got pics of them both???
 
I Think they vary depending on manufacturer or application they were made for maybe?
The part number on the unit (if its still there) should have a number ending -0031 or -0034 i think for a dash 31 or 34.

Just use a longer pipe to get round the extra. Makes no difference to operation.
 
ok cheers guys. i'll have a look and see if i can see something that resembles a part number. not the easiest place to see tho lol!
just thought it was a bit strange that my ph1 actuator port is closest to the air filter and on my ph2 quaddie its closest to the engine. im sure tony who i bought the car from said it had a -31 actuator but im also fairly sure he said he'd taken it off to sell seperatley.
cheers,
pat :mrgreen:
 
right just had a look (luckily both my headlights are off and all the boost pipes too!!!) and the last digits quite clearly say -00034!!!
is this good or bad? could it be why the car is overboosting????
i.e. i had 2 split turbo hoses before and im not sure when they split, maybe before i had the car and if it was set up with split hoses and now these have been replaced with good ones, maybe the actuator is set wrong????
whats my easiest option if this is the case?
electronic boost controller?
cheers,
pat:yup:
 
right just had a look (luckily both my headlights are off and all the boost pipes too!!!) and the last digits quite clearly say -00034!!!
is this good or bad? could it be why the car is overboosting????
i.e. i had 2 split turbo hoses before and im not sure when they split, maybe before i had the car and if it was set up with split hoses and now these have been replaced with good ones, maybe the actuator is set wrong????
whats my easiest option if this is the case?
electronic boost controller?
cheers,
pat:yup:

Lengthen the rod from the actuator a bit, so it falls over the fitting on the wastegate in its closed position minus half a turn.
 
cheers dave!!
ok ill try that before the lights etc go back in.
do you think that could be why the car overboosted?
cheers,
pat:good2:
 
Hi mate......I was right then - it is a -34 actuator - hence why the port is pointing the opposite way!!! If you still have the amal valve circuit plumbed in then yes this is why it is overboosting!!! -34 actuators have a 14psi spring in them...add 7psi (that the amal valve gives) & this means you where running at about 21psi...not good on a standard engine! LOL! If you want to get rid let me know & I'll swap you for a standard one!!! :mrgreen:
 
yes lee mate looks like you were right!!!
i think ill keep it for now as my turbo isn't standard anyway. plus i'm hoping to get new 357's for about £50 each with a bit of luck. then i've got an alleged nick hill cam to fit, front mount i/c etc etc....when i win the lottery that i cant afford to buy a ticket for:cry2: lol
if i decide to change it you can have 1st shout on it.
if i ditch the amal valve, where's the best place to connect the actuator to?
cheers,
pat :eh:
 
Hi mate......I was right then - it is a -34 actuator - hence why the port is pointing the opposite way!!! If you still have the amal valve circuit plumbed in then yes this is why it is overboosting!!! -34 actuators have a 14psi spring in them...add 7psi (that the amal valve gives) & this means you where running at about 21psi...not good on a standard engine! LOL! If you want to get rid let me know & I'll swap you for a standard one!!! :mrgreen:

Actually it should only run actuator pressure if it was working right.....
 
so basicallythe amal vavle 'holds' back the supply to the actuator untill a certain point then it opens and lets it through to the actuator, which then opens at whatever psi its set to?
what, if anything, is the amal valve set to or is there something that controls it too????
cheers,
pat
 
Standard boost is 13.2psi, or 900mBar, but in the std setup the actuator is set to open at 8psi.

13.2 is attained by a pulsating solenoid valve, AKA the amal valve. It pulses at a constant frequency of 12 Hertz, so <time open>+<Time closed> equals <constant> but it varies time open and closed to make the adjustment. It basically acts as an electronic bleed valve....boost controller stylee. When you are in 1st gear (2wd only) or engine temp is below 50 centigrade it limits boost to actuator pressure, ie 8psi, otherwise it changes its pulse profile to bleed away pressure and allows 13.2psi.
On top of all that, it also controls pre throttle butterfly boost pressure according to how much throttle you have on. Its a brilliant innovation, half throttle=half boost, instead of a setup like my old ph1 with no amal valve which hit over a bar of boost at 1/3 throttle. Great for fuel saving and cruising, prolongs the life of the turbo as it doesnt work as hard as well.

All this though, is assuming its working correctly. Problems begin when its not, from boosting low (8psi) to massive overboost (BOOM!). The overboost problem is dangerous but Renault saw fit to add an overboost protection system. It cuts in around 18psi and it breaks a circuit and turns your engine off. Again assuming its working, and hasnt been f**ked with by some boost hungry little scally. DO NOT REMOVE IT. Take the time to adjust and reset it to the required level.

If you do get problems with boost the first thing I suggest is eliminate the electronics, which in cliffs case has proved that the mechanicals are working correctly, so the fault lies with the electronics. Replacing the valve should prove fruitful, if not there is a possible wiring problem as earthing one of the amal valve wires results in it spazzing out and jamming open giving up to about 21psi.

Anyway, enough crap for now, i'm off to eat another folder of Renault manuals :lol:

From another thread ages ago....
 
cheers dave!!!!:grin: very informative....which leads me to my next question...i was told when i bought the car that something under the ecu cover had been adjusted to run 'over' 1 bar. bearing in mind the split hoses i found, could it have been adjusted when there was a leak in the system and now that there isn't a leak it means it was adjusted too high?
cheers for your answers, help and patience,
pat:grin:
 
cheers dave!!!!:grin: very informative....which leads me to my next question...i was told when i bought the car that something under the ecu cover had been adjusted to run 'over' 1 bar. bearing in mind the split hoses i found, could it have been adjusted when there was a leak in the system and now that there isn't a leak it means it was adjusted too high?
cheers for your answers, help and patience,
pat:grin:

In a word.....Yes.


Sounds like the overboost cutoff was turned up.
 
cheers again dave! ill investigate that tomorrow and give an update soon.
cheers,
pat
 
right, i've had a look under the ecu cover and i think i've found the overboost cutout...metal nut thing, with yellow plastic, two brown/beige wires and a pipe going to the inlet manifold (i think?).
i can see the little adjuster screw, but which way do i turn it to DECREASE boost cutoff psi?
cheers,
pat:sm_help:
 
I can't remember which way off the top of my head but if you use a foot pump (gently!) and a multi meter you can find out what it is set to and adjust it accordingly.
 
cheers for the reply. what do i connect the multi meter to? the amal valve? what reading should i get etc?
as you can tell im not the best with car electrics!!!:dunno:
cheers,
pat:burnout:
 
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