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Alpine 1968 Renault R8

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adey
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If you're Front end is anything like right, you'll feel slightly tracking adjustments. Try it about 1-2 mm toe in with the wide tyres. The problem trying to get these right is the camber changes on ride height which changes the toe quite a bit. Pick a spot and always adjust on that spot. They've also got masses of caster and KPI inbuilt as there's no weight up front. All this causes the toe to change, not an issue on 135's but can feel darty or understeery depending on circumstances with wider tyres. You have put some neggy on the front axle which helps get rid of the dartyness.
 
Hi Adey,
I set my tracking as a starting point on my R8G and Dauphine, by using a cheap Bosch Laser distance measurer, and when when lying down on the floor alongside the car, its possible to measure the wheel rims inside leading edges and trailing edges at a height of a good few inches off the floor, before things get in the way of the beams. Its not precise but its a staring point. Its also a one man job compared to string lines. I dare say that simple magnetic target strips could be attached to the inside of the steel wheel rims as well.
Cheers
Dave
 
Banging some more miles on it, another trip to work and spirited run home. Still need to align it, and possibly order some new shocks all round. I see that gaz offer some for the car...

Had someone properly complaining that it stank of fuel from the exhaust this morning when I drove past them.🤣🤣. Didn't grasp that old carbed cars don't smell like a modern.

Spotted and got a wave from a cool Ferrari testarossa too

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Hi Adey,
Its looking smart in the spring Sunshine, its surprising the admiring looks and toots you get while driving on the road, wait until you stop at a fuel station, and the curious wander up to enquire as to what it is or say their family once had one as a daily driver etc.
We had a humble Classic Car Show annually in Cardiff Bay next to the Welsh Senedd building, it was actually an infilled sea dock, and Visitors to our City would stop to chat especially the foreigners who new of the cars [R8G or Dauphine G] which I found charming as they were not car show nuts just Holidaying visitors to our City.
What car model is your front spoiler from, I am thinking of improving the aerodynamic efficiency of the slab like front end of my R8G.
Cheers
Dave
 
Hi Adey,
Its looking smart in the spring Sunshine, its surprising the admiring looks and toots you get while driving on the road, wait until you stop at a fuel station, and the curious wander up to enquire as to what it is or say their family once had one as a daily driver etc.
We had a humble Classic Car Show annually in Cardiff Bay next to the Welsh Senedd building, it was actually an infilled sea dock, and Visitors to our City would stop to chat especially the foreigners who new of the cars [R8G or Dauphine G] which I found charming as they were not car show nuts just Holidaying visitors to our City.
What car model is your front spoiler from, I am thinking of improving the aerodynamic efficiency of the slab like front end of my R8G.
Cheers
Dave

its a killer when you stop somewhere. Need an extra 10 min on every trip lol.

Its from a mk1 golf GTI (y) ill find the link for you
 
It's just a phase ...
everything is (y)

I think it looks cool personally, itll keep changing and evolving.

@Steve Swan who have you used for uprated R8 shocks in the past? I think its on my list of things to change soon. Gaz list some for an R8 Gordini Turbo which has thrown me a little.
 
Shocks are available from Koni and AVO, plus the usual french suspects. I got AVO to make me custom double adjustables for the Dauph. I used AVO on Paul Erringtons car , but I had to modify the front lower bushes to get them to fit the brackets, it's in the thread. I think the Gaz ones are a typo. I would check with them before ordering. There's a thread on Aussiefrogs talking about this and none of the quoted sizes were correct for R8.
You also need to beware of 8g and A110 rear listings as they are a completely different design. Gr4 springs for the A110 work quite well as a straight fit in an 8. Lower and much firmer. Not firm enough for serious work, but an easy option.
 
everything is (y)

I think it looks cool personally, itll keep changing and evolving.

@Steve Swan who have you used for uprated R8 shocks in the past? I think its on my list of things to change soon. Gaz list some for an R8 Gordini Turbo which has thrown me a little.
Got Gaz on mine Adey but would not recommend them and three after service sucks unless your Lee lockwood :) main problem i have had is with the rears , Bilstein did say at the retro rides gathering that they would make me some .
 
Shocks are available from Koni and AVO, plus the usual french suspects. I got AVO to make me custom double adjustables for the Dauph. I used AVO on Paul Erringtons car , but I had to modify the front lower bushes to get them to fit the brackets, it's in the thread. I think the Gaz ones are a typo. I would check with them before ordering. There's a thread on Aussiefrogs talking about this and none of the quoted sizes were correct for R8.
You also need to beware of 8g and A110 rear listings as they are a completely different design. Gr4 springs for the A110 work quite well as a straight fit in an 8. Lower and much firmer. Not firm enough for serious work, but an easy option.
Hi All,
Not much to add here, I started with Spax adjustables 50 years ago, they lasted a few weeks until the front lower metalastic bushes totally failed, Spax would send replacement bushes which would also last weeks only, they also bent and stretched the lower R8 std yokes where the pin bolt holes are located, I would suggest that you plate these yoke flanks to add strength.
I now use AVO single adjuster knob dampers from the A110, and these all leak from the piston rod gland seals, I have had them rebuilt once but they keep failing even on softer settings. These however have red plastic bushes which are fine. I think Nigel Hollier had Gaz make his dampers for his Rally A110.
A std rear R8 gearbox X member will require some beefing up by welding stiches around the spring towers seams as a precaution, they also break in half at the middle at the M10 central gearbox Bracket Bolt hole, so I add a 25mm wide x 3mm thick long B&Q steel strap welded to the top face, so far so good.
Its all lighter than the 4 shocker Gordini X member/axle set up which weighs a " ton"
Its possible to run the car like a "dry" MIni i.e. on its bumpstops, again there are better plastic material stops available these days, but keep your Dentists number handy!
Cheers
Dave
 
Do you remember a while back when I opted to fit all new, modern electronics and parts to give me some extra reliability and confidence in the car....

We had a rare ish child free morning so decided to do some "house" bits. Namely get some paint to do some touch-ups around the place. Decided as it was nice, we would pop out for some breakfast and then on to Gloucester to browse B&Q.

Started fine and I got a full English in and then off we headed until karma got me. At a set of traffic lights, joining a dual carriage way the chap in front of us stalled, we had a little chuckle as we waited patiently then a more laughter as the car seemingly kangarooed and just as the lights were turning red, it went. Not in a huff more slightly amused we blatted past in the outside lane. About 400meters down the road the car bogged every time I touched the throttle. Urgh, no biggy, coast into the local farm shop. Quick look over the car and I cant see anything major wrong. Using the AA app I request recovery. It was going to be a few hours, but luckily we are friends the people who own the farm, so off for a quick coffee and the farm house.

AA quickly pushed the time out so I opted to go home, get some kit and the laptop, and give it a proper going over. Now I could get the car to idle but only just, the carb seemingly squirting fuel when asked of it, so in my head a sensor had gone down. Laptop plugged in showed no issues, all the sensors were showing acceptable readings and it was syncing up fine. I started to wonder if the trigger wheel had slipped so went into checking that. plug out, at tdc and eyeball it on the pickup, again all fine.

It was then I noticed the pump wasn't as loud as normal when priming. Annoyingly I currently have some sort of ear issue, so hearing wasn't the best anyway. I used the laptop to put it into test mode, it was making some noise, but on removal of the carbs fuel feed, nowt was coming out....

This coincided with the AA arriving. We had a little chat, he looked at and said id know it better than he would and discussed towing it home. He pulled out a little hand pump device so we could see if the tank pickup was blocked or the pump was buggered and we were able to check draw through the pipe work all the way through to the carb so that was good but we were now talking about if it would be fine freewheeling with the engine and box being in the rear. As I was putting it all back together I jokingly said have you got a hammer, we can give it a clout. Set the ecu to run it continually, held the main feed over the carb inlet and "whack" all of a sudden the noise changed, and it filled the carb to the brim..... not ideal but it was working!!!!!

So out with all the plugs and cranked to empty out the excess fuel (didn't want to hydro it on petrol) back in and fired up. Ran lumpy whilst chugging black smoke for about 30 seconds, but a few blips of the throttle and she ran sweet again. Mr AA man followed me about 6 miles home and it ran sweet as you like. Ill be ordering another pump as a back up. Looking at the first bit of fuel we pulled through I think the pump has had some crap get into it, its the lowest point in the system and I think some sediment had made it through to there.

So, replacing everything for modern parts and electronics, so far, hasn't helped me 🤣

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