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Alpine 1968 Renault R8

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adey
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Probably some sort of "tism" going on tbh.

I don't mind it, gives me something to keep me active and not just sat on my ass on the sofa. Kids are usually out playing any time I'm tinkering too so win win there as they are still young so i can keep an eye on them
 
Who's good at the maths/calculation side of things?

so if my current engine has a static comp ratio of 9.25:1 with a head cc of about 35cc. Assuming everything else stayed the same though the new head had a cc of around 43cc what would my new comp ratio be?

I rough it out at 7.95:1.... very low
 
Going Atmo will need pistons, flat tops no use with that head . Even the atmo 5g pistons are u/s for decent compression, that's why Salv's 1420 conversion is so good it has much higher crowns with much more compression, skimming loads of the semi hemi spoils the chamber shape. Piston crown shape is how it's done. I thought you would get away with the flat tops if going turbo, a bit pikey, but a cheap enough experiment. I would still use a Gtt turbo and carb, much easier to fit in the space and plumb up, it plays to your existing strengths.
 
turbo it is then @Steve Swan 😁

In other news, I did something that has dramatically changed the feel/sound of the car in the cabin. I fitted some mini exhaust cotton reels as gear selector bushes. I had previously solid mounted them as a replacement for the oem bushes as they were completely failed, it worked fine so I've not re visited it until today. Was shocked at how much transmission noise was being transferred into the cabin! massive change and so much nicer to cruise in.

I've also ordered some new (second hand) tires to go on. This will change things threefold. It'll lift the car a little whilst still looking tucked up in the arches, it will effectively change the gearing, meaning I should be travelling quicker/traveling further for the same revs, not too much but every little helps. And it'll change the look a little. Chonky semi slicks for that cafe racer feel.
 
Who's good at the maths/calculation side of things?

so if my current engine has a static comp ratio of 9.25:1 with a head cc of about 35cc. Assuming everything else stayed the same though the new head had a cc of around 43cc what would my new comp ratio be?

I rough it out at 7.95:1.... very low
For convenience: Compressieverhouding berekenen

Slag = Stroke
Verbrandingskamer = Combustion chamber
 
Been putting a few test miles on the car. Luckily the steel wings were easily manipulated for a little extra clearance. Car rides super smooth on the big tyres and the speedo is only 5mph out vs GPS. Little bit of scrubbing on turning but it already did that anyway.

Stoked so far, just need to sort out the tracking, and find someone who can balance the wheels. The place that did my dope wheels last time seemingly can't do them or tracking on my car anymore...

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If you strike out on balancing, you can try beads.. I put them in the Landy and it's definitely better. Hard to use conventional weights with really heavy tyres. There's a great video about beads on YouTube a guy with a 2 CV (R8 type wheels) who used them on it with success. They are more meant for 4x4 and lcv/ hgv.
 
The place i used/normally use have what i need. They've just decided I'm too much hassle to deal with i guess. Their kit fits for alignment as I've been before, and they have the adapters for 3 stud as they did my dope wheels a few times over. Too much effort for too little reward i guess. Thing is off the back of that they tend to get all my tyre/alignment work, not much but still. I'll be going elsewhere from now on.
 
You could try string method for tracking, takes some set up to do, basically create two parallel lines , one each side of car, then measure distance to rim edge.
Gives four wheel alignment, but it's a faff and as soon as you jack it to adjust , you'll have to start again, need a decent flat area, and obviously if wheels aren't true etc , but I make the strings long enough to roll the car so the wheels rotate 180 Deg, you can look for it changing.
Set up parallel, then wind in or out to suit your preference.
In my head I always thought of making something to bolt on disc/hub faces with some lasers pens but to start that game you need a perfect flat surface to sit the car, all sorts of variables kick in and up your own arse you disappear!
 
Something is better than nothing, I've been looking at the gunson trakrites, only has to be close, well closer than me eye balling it. Luckily with the new style track rod ends ive fitted i can adjust it from the deck easily with no jacking up (y)
 
I’ve tried the string method and it worked well, but as @Turbell says, faff to set up. I used two pipes, heavy fishing line, and axle stands to set mine up. Google it and you’ll see, if you’ve not already.
I also have a gunson trakrite, which works way better than it should. I wouldn’t rely on it per se, but it’s been a great asset for my daily’s when replacing steering/suspension parts. Not sure where you’re located, but you’re welcome to borrow it.
 
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