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Alpine 1968 Renault R8

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adey
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Depending on if you could be arsed or not you could maybe look at the r5 campus spi inlet for a cheap efi turbo setup on the c2j. Seen it done recently using a piggyback ecu on stock setup, apparantly works ok.
 
Take the tank out and there's plenty space. You might get away with the pistons, as you're not going mad . Keep the water pump and propeller and cooling is not an issue. 150 hp and no downside, bit of engineering reqd and that's it. You will need to get an ear to the ground for a R16 4 speed or a 16tx/5g 5 speed or it'll dement you.
 
to be fair, if it can fit with just the tank moving to the front that would be awesome and a very easy fit...

in my head there was no piston or valve contact issues but I could be wrong.

if thats the case it would just need a modified cam and id need some pushrods sourcing (found them for sale at 17euros each) plus a gasket set and some time/bodgenering
 
Dont think you will have p-v contact with the dini head, just unsure what the comp ratio will be with c2j pistons. Might be worth doing the maths on it.

From memory something was different on the oil galleries on c series block but pretty easy to sort. @DrKd might be able to advise.
 
Hi Adey,
Just to be cautious and to not put a dampener on things, you need to very carefully check the Gordini Turbo head for cracking on the top between the middle 2 spark plug tubes, clean it carefully to examine it. They can be welded however and reskimmed to remove any warping Salv is your man regarding this and advice with any potential valve contact with the std R5 flat pistons you propose to use.
Great project.
Dave
 
The C6J is pretty much identical to the 840 atmo. Pistons were lower in the turbo, head castings were pretty much the same, but turbo had sodium filled exhaust valves. The C7J (T1-T2) has 4 cam bearings and there are oil holes in the connecting rods to squirt oil at the underside of the pistons.
 
If you've got flat topped n/a pistons you won't get interference from the valves. The gt turbo crown does not hit, neither does the larger crown of the gd turbo. You'll need the gordini style cam as its got different exhaust - inlet lobe locations to the wedge head type. The oil way is in the same location, block-head wedge and cross flow. I think our friend Autosprint Coleshill might have shut down, so cheap regrinds are no longer on the table.
 
This is all awesome info, thanks everyone

I still think I can keep it budget and PMT friendly. Got plenty to work through, I think if I can gain space to use oem parts with the tank out I'm on to a real winner.
 
Love this! Some mega knowledgeable contributions to bounce off. I’m looking forward to seeing where it leads. Keep up the good work! :cool:
 
Hi Adey,
That was a good result, so assuming that the x flow cam is a std R5G Atmo or Turbo, the clutch end part needs to be parted off, so it looks like an R8 cam end, and is the same length, this end cam bearing journal here is also smaller in diameter than the rest and your block will therefore require for a shell bearing to be inserted, so the oil can rise to the crossflow head and rockers etc.
At the chain end it should have push fit a duplex sprocket fitted, which needs to be replaced with either an R8 single chain one or a 5GTTurbo vernier one, the cam end needs to be further modified to have have a woodruff key fitted and also be tapped for the R8 securing sprocket bolt and washer.
Inevitably, all roads lead to Salv's Workshop, he can do all the above alterations for you.
Cheers
Dave
 
Indeed, salv had offered to send over dimensions also 👍🏼 spinning the cam on a lathe isn't an issue
 
Dont think you will have p-v contact with the dini head, just unsure what the comp ratio will be with c2j pistons. Might be worth doing the maths on it.

From memory something was different on the oil galleries on c series block but pretty easy to sort. @DrKd might be able to advise.
Howdy @Brigsy @Adey

The R8 head oil galleries differ from those in the Dini and C7K. However, this doesn’t apply in your case, as you’re using a Dini and C block. For example, the R8 head circulates oil to the rocker shafts from the centre, whereas the Dini/C7K/C directs oil flow from the end.

The only modification I made was drilling and tapping the oil gallery at the end of the block to house a stainless stud, which I drilled to 2.5mm. This helps retain oil within the engine and reduces oil transfer to the head.

I used domed pistons, so I had to pocket them for the valves due to the high lift and overlap on my cam. I also used 21mm tappets, meaning I had to machine the C block from 19mm to approximately 21mm. If you're using stock Dini pushrods, you'll be fine—there’s no need to drill the head holes to 21mm or more.

Finally, since my engine is transversely mounted (viva la R5GTT!), oil drains are required from the head to the sump.

As always, great work - you two - on your motors' :)
 
Howdy @Brigsy @Adey

The R8 head oil galleries differ from those in the Dini and C7K. However, this doesn’t apply in your case, as you’re using a Dini and C block. For example, the R8 head circulates oil to the rocker shafts from the centre, whereas the Dini/C7K/C directs oil flow from the end.

The only modification I made was drilling and tapping the oil gallery at the end of the block to house a stainless stud, which I drilled to 2.5mm. This helps retain oil within the engine and reduces oil transfer to the head.

I used domed pistons, so I had to pocket them for the valves due to the high lift and overlap on my cam. I also used 21mm tappets, meaning I had to machine the C block from 19mm to approximately 21mm. If you're using stock Dini pushrods, you'll be fine—there’s no need to drill the head holes to 12mm or more.

Finally, since my engine is transversely mounted (viva la R5GTT!), oil drains are required from the head to the sump.

As always, great work - you two - on your motors' :)
Upps 12mm pushrods holes - put the tank cutter away haha.

No worries, hope to catch up soon ☺️
 
All 5 bearing Iron blocks have the oil feed to the head through the cam bearing closest to the Flywheel. R8g rocker gear differs from 5g rocker gear in the way the oil feeds, which was easy to get wrong in the 8g ,so the 5 system is simpler. The system tends to over oil at high rpm. I have never restricted any of mine and never had a problem. I did modify the runback from the cam tube to keep it a bit fuller.... Trying to help out follower face oiling. Going all steel, Cam and followers cured the issue. Which was more metallurgical ( cheap chilled Iron junk)
Is it a turbo cam or atmo?? If atmo you can probably swap for a turbo as the latter is not good for good for regrinding due to the original grind being tame by atmo standards.
 
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