Alpine 1968 Renault R8

[Brigsy]

Looks a lot better with altitude adjustments mate.

 

[Adey]

Looks a lot better with altitude adjustments mate.

Doesn't it just. Cant wait to get the rear dialled in a touch too. Lows can make any old chod look decent

 

[Turbell]

Looks 'ard as nails.
Like a banded steel, had a quick look at ours at my Dad's, need to welderup, get moving, kids cars getting in my way, soaking up my time.......

 

[Adey]

Looks 'ard as nails.
Like a banded steel, had a quick look at ours at my Dad's, need to welderup, get moving, kids cars getting in my way, soaking up my time.......

throw the tools at the kids and crack on with the old mans car?

 

[Turbell]

throw the tools at the kids and crack on with the old mans car?

Daughters useless at mechanics, son in law is worse, Son just tells me what 225 needs next......

 

[Adey]

The sun was shining, and I was itching to get back on the 8, so I pulled a half day today so I could finish up on the ride height. 2 hours of messing about but we are there. Not massively slammed but it drives on and off my drive so its good to go in my eyes. Front camber still needs addressing but I need to get a tool made to accurately adjust it. Brakes are also starting to come to life now so ill bleed them again soon. Lots of little bits to sort and finish up so I can start using it. The carb being a big one. It'll start nicely but I think the auto choke part of it is stuck on. Once it gets some heat into it it'll stall every time you touch the throttle, and for some reason when you do tap it, the chock goes fully closed again.

Anyway, here are some pics

 

[Steve Swan]

Big improvement, rear doesn't look like it is mental negative, which won't work with wider tyres anyway. You can see there's a fair bit of positive on the front. If you do the shorter bumpstops like you had on the dope you will have some compliance without the potential for metal to metal contact. Brakes will need some miles to clean up. Get rid of the shrouds when you can. Wrapping up a brakedisc to keep it warm isn't really a good idea.

 

[Renny 5]

Looks real good mate

 

[Adey]

Looks real good mate

cheers bud, its defo getting there now

 

[Adey]

Big improvement, rear doesn't look like it is mental negative, which won't work with wider tyres anyway. You can see there's a fair bit of positive on the front. If you do the shorter bumpstops like you had on the dope you will have some compliance without the potential for metal to metal contact. Brakes will need some miles to clean up. Get rid of the shrouds when you can. Wrapping up a brakedisc to keep it warm isn't really a good idea.

No its not mad with it, the dope had loads more, but maybe I lowered it more than this. ahh yes, forgot about them. Good shout ill swap them out at somepoint too

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Am I right in thinking you cant change those stretched rubber bands (tyres) for aa set that would fir now as it would cause too much arch scrubbage??

 

[Adey]

Am I right in thinking you cant change those stretched rubber bands (tyres) for aa set that would fir now as it would cause too much arch scrubbage??

No there's still space to change them out to different sized ones if needed

 

[Adey]

No here is one for the anoraks on old renaults.... my oil warning light has slowly began to illuminate. I've disconnected it and it stays lit, and if I ground the wire it stays lit...... if its lit its going to ground somewhere isnt it? Anywhere in particular i should start looking for a fault?

In other electrical news the windscreen wipers have sprang into life

 

[Steve Swan]

Does it have a temp warning light?? old type 8 has low oil and overheat on the same lamp, if someone uses a Gauge sender instead of a Lamp sender then glowing lights are the order of the day. Failing that it's just the usual dodgy French electrics.
It only has about 12 wires ......

 

[Adey]

I don't even know what everything on my dash is or what the switches do yet @Steve Swan I have seen a temp sensor in the head though. Initially it didn't do it so something has broken down or failed. I will go through it all at the weekend when I try and wrap up the electrical side of things

 

[Adey]

It looks like I have, charging lamp, oil pressure and high beam

 

[Steve Swan]

Oil P and Temp on same circuit/wire, Like early 8. Glowing suggests changing resistance like a gauge sensor, if pulling wire off oil p and temp senders puts light off, then reconnect oil p and see if it's still off, if it is then connect temp and if it glows getting brighter as the motor warms up, you'll know won't you.

 

[Adey]

awesome cheers steve

 

[Adey]

Disconnected the water temp sensor and the light worked as it should, assuming failed sensor, i have a spare that i got from an old, early r8 engine i used for parts on the dope. Will swap it in and see if it works as intended.

Carb base water passage was blocked and not allowing the auto choke to work. Gave it a little clean out and that's working fine now, opens up as the engine warms. Car now cuts out at temp so I need to spend a little time cleaning the carb through. I may order a gasket kit and give it a full strip and clean if I cant get it working properly.

Another thing on my list is the handbrake, I think the cables are stretched as they move fine, but not enough to actually clamp up the rear wheels. Ill try adjusting them out to the max but they are pretty far on the adjusters already.

 

[Steve Swan]

The Handbrake works backwards. The Mechanism forces the outer cables apart. You need to adjust up the mech on the caliper to get the levers to move back. When it's adjusted properly it really works well.
Check and clean the mech under the passenger seat. Then loosen the big nut on the rear caliper and adjust by winding the 14mm hex in, probably better to remove it all and clean/lube it and re-assemble a 1/4 turn is the difference between it being right and wrong.
For a man of your experience, just strip it all and put it back together and you'll never need to touch it again - Honest.