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Torque math help

Soneji

Active Member
is it possible to take an angle value in degrees and translate that into a torque value (lbsft), and vice versa?

Got to tighten something over the range of my torq-wrench, and don't want to buy a bigger wrench...

I've tried to search in vain myself, I find nothing or some crazy mathematics.

Please help an idiot

:lol:
 
thats a bit shit. could have been dead handy that!

well everything inside and around the block, stumbled across some paraffin so everything is getting cleaned , plus asda had a deal on semi 4ltr castrol gtx or whatever for a tenner so grabbed a two of them. Get this out the way over the next few days. Bored of it.

got some thread lock too, hopefully good enough wasnt much technical data on it mind, might look later.

what i haven't got is plaustiguage, but i'm thinking while nice it's probably pointless anyway if everything measures up and is properly clean.

Got a dinky halfords pro wrench (max 60N.m/44lbf.ft) and haynes is telling me everything on the inside is 44lbf/ft or under - with the only exception being bearing caps, which goes 44lbf ft to 48lbf ft oddly.

Only thing I can't get near on eventially will be outside with the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is 66lbs. Take it up to 44, then ****ing tight?
 
crank bolt just do FT don't bother with torque settings they loosen I have found even with threadlock at the stock setting.

Thing is just throwing it together will most likely end up in tears tbh. All it takes is a spec of grit and the crank will lock up and then screw the bearings when you try and turn it. Might get away with it but is it worth the risk?

I have torque wrenches though if you want help building it, just pick me up and buy food.
 
i'm not going to just chuck it together but I do know what you are saying.

if I take the measuresments and everythings fine, which it will be given the state of the crank and journels, make sure everything is clean it'll hopefully be fine. I've checked them seperate as did the engineer, not done them closed.

The only thing the plastiguage seems to do to me is give you another device to confirm the maths or some balls up, and surely the maths itself is fine if you measure it correctly and don't fuck it up

So, balls to plastiguage?

Even with that, plastiguage doesn't stop you getting a bit spec of grit in there anyway? I mean to say, it could happen eitherwhich way. Just got to be clean, take time and check rotation as I go.

It's been cleaned before it got wrapped, but it'll all get cleaned again. As long as the bearings are seated right it's a doddle and the journels are good nick. I'll just take my time and spin it after each piston etc.

tried to get a stand, snow delayed them at machine mart apparently. don't know when they'll be in.

i'll maybe grab you across at the weekend, not sure whats happening with the work got time booked off but no one to really replace me so watch this space
 
Best not to turn the crank before all the caps are torqued up.

As for Plastigauge, it's just to give you a warm comfortable feeling after you've done all the proper measuring really.
 
hmmm well yeah. I was just meaning clamp it down, give it a turn. And with each piston insearted and bolted down also unless that too is bad or pointless?

yeah I thought as much with the plastiguage, i'll inspect each bearing closely as I go of course and just get the same feeling from when it starts!

also, is assembly or cam lube etc (the coloured stuff) really needed? Can't I just splash oil 'everywhere' and go surely?
 
i don't like the idea of it all together.

do you know how long I spent cleaning the carbon off?????

:D
 
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