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Megane Spooky's RS Megane 225

Nothing exciting has happened with the car as of late.

Recently had its MOT, no issues.

Well that was before the nearside headlight washer stopped working, had a closer look and saw that the pipe was dangling around wazzing screenwash at everything but the fucking headlight

I’ve noticed that the headlights aren’t as bright as they could be, the xenons are probably past their best, circa 10 years old now. I’ve seen the prices of the D2S xenons from Phillips and Osram, I know lights are important but they aren’t £50~ a side important

I have found replacements, they seem legit and are backed up by some really positive reviews. Will let you know how I get on!

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Correct.

Most xenons can be changed, they can last a while and usually have good performance for sometimes up to 10 years.

I’m sure the ballasts are ok, although if I can find them for a reasonable amount, I’ll change them too.

Will do a before and after for reference.
 
Righto. New bulbs are in and there is a noticeable improvement.

I went for the 6000k Ultra blue temperature rating and I have to say that they don’t really look that blue. It’s a very white light in day light, it may be slightly different when night falls, we shall see!

Bulb quality is good, E marked, correct power rating apart from temperature rating (that was deliberate).

The bulbs are easy to install if you drop the bumper and pull the headlights off, 30-40mins in all.

I’m going to recheck the headlight aim just to make sure the beam if pointing where it should be. The level sensors are good so hopefully changing to these bulbs will give me a little more than candle light!
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The near side CV joint has been merrily clicking away for a while now.

As I use the car for relatively short journeys it’s never really been on the top of the to do list.

When I used the car on Xmas day (I was working), I pulled into a lane to drive to a bridge and the clicking turned into a click/crunch. It’s only done this when pulling away.

I thought it best to replace it rather than get worse and who knows what would happen.

Pretty straight forward to pull the hub apart; I removed the anti roll link bar at the hub, the track rod end, the entire calliper assembly, the hub nut and split the hub from the arm. I decided to drop the whole hub as it was effectively only held in by the pinch bolt, after 30-40mins, she was apart.

Replacing CV is a doddle, cut the boot away, knock the old CV joint off, replace circlip and refit new joint, or so I thought...

Turns out the CV joint I was going to use was seized solid, I only found this out after fitting it all up to check to for good movement etc. Not happy so I begrudgingly put it back together...

I didn’t see any thing to suggest a crunch, the bearings were intact and there was no swarf, maybe I crushed an armadillo, they’re quite crunchy?!

I’m tempted to change the entire driveshaft but will try another CV before doing that.

Nothing like wasting a Saturday afternoon iOS Image - 1725337448.webpiOS Image - 330044391.webp
 
Yes Dave, the new part was seized.

I’ve been reading that some people have had difficulties with new Q Drive joints, I’ve never had any issues personally with any Q Drive replacement parts until yesterday. I’ll take it back to ECP and pick up a new GKN joint.
 
Yes Dave, the new part was seized.

I’ve been reading that some people have had difficulties with new Q Drive joints, I’ve never had any issues personally with any Q Drive replacement parts until yesterday. I’ll take it back to ECP and pick up a new GKN joint.
That sucks but I just had a similar issue with a Meyle shock for my Volvo. fitted the brand new shock and it knocked its tits off from the word go. Can't get a replacement till new year either :-\ so I'm now on three brand new shocks and one 211,000 mile old one. All the Meyle stuff I've had to now has been spot on though.
 
Quick update, only been 2-2.5 months...

I’ve finally replaced the nearside CV, I didn’t expect it to make any difference other than get rid of the clicking but it definitely feels a lot more taught than before.

While I was down there I could’ve replaced the steering arm buuuut I didn’t. There is enough movement to warrant replacing it but I haven’t noticed any additional tyre wear and I don’t have any issue with the steering.

The recent snow fall made for some fun and games, the AD08R’s were about as useful as a choccy teapot which was to be expected but truth be told, it carved through the snow.

Still not looked at the “lack of boost/underpower” issue with whatever remap its had so I’m currently weighing up where to take it to get it checked over.

Other than that the car has been alright.

I’ll keep it for a little longer but I’m due a company car soon and I’m trying to hold off until I can see what cars are available because there is a strong possibility the new Meg will be on it, the RS version of course!



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You will be absolutely HAMMERED with tax on a new Meg RS!

RsTuning are worth a look for finding the issues out with your meg plus very experienced.
 
Fully aware of that, what I couldn't add via the mobile app (before it crashed!) was that I've got a few options in terms of how I could do it, one option is a very preferential rate for PCP. I'll see how it goes.

It totally depends on work now too as my current project is due for completion in September meaning I could be undertaking some commuting....

Current options are the North West/Transpenine region, north west London (for HS2 enabling works) OR the South East (Sussex/Kent etc)! So the more likely scenario is that I'll be given a car and if that happens, the RS idea is out of the window :-(
 
You mention the transpennine option. Does that mean I will be getting an upgrade from my Doncaster --> Manchester run that takes nearly as long as Doncaster --> London despite it being 120mi shorter?

( sidetrack - much! )
 
Quick update.

The car is still running great, not let me down once since I’ve owned it.

Reading back through an old thread, I’m still unsure on the level of tune. It should be making 270hp/lbft but don’t believe it does as the previous dyno figures aren’t showing anywhere close.

I’ve checked for boost leaks and Clip isn’t showing any electrical gremlins, everything seems to be in check. I don’t know what boost I’m running and have read that I should be seeing around 13-14psi (?) psi for my power, who knows.

The car has previously run at the Turborenault Dyno Day rollers so it will be interesting to see what difference a change of actuator makes.

I’ve got no interest in tweaking it any further but if I do decide to hold onto the car, I’ll probably book it in with EFI to see what’s what.
 
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