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Megane R26 brake fluid recommend
- Thread starter R26230F1
- Start date
papps
Well-Known Member
OEM fluid not up to the job on track really sadly - I found the same mate! 2 laps and the pedal was dead! ha
Motul RBF600 or RBF660 (slightly higher boiling points) are more than up to the job, great upgrades, won't boil - I've given both fluids a lot of abuse on track with the R26 and both totally fine.
Opie Oils - Automotive Oils, Fluids & Parts with the code 'TURBORENAULT' will get you 10% off as well, 1 Ltr is whats needed for the Mk2
I also found the OEM pads don't work if you brake above 100mph a few times.......
Myself and others can't rave and rant about the DS1.11 compound enough in the Mk2 meg fitment on the front calipers - proper head through the windscreen stopping power, but they will squeal at low speeds on the road - but the cold bite is much better than OEM on the road. Email or call JJC race and rally - tell them you are a member on here and you heard they can supply the pads for £163 (RRP 200) - at that price they are 3 times the pad the DS2500's are at £140!!! They don't have the part listed, but the part number is FCP1667W and they can supply - order before 3pm you always get it next day - used them 3 times.....
Don't know if you felt the clutch pedal change a little in feel as well...? but the clutch fluid and brake fluid are ran off the same reservoir....so if you have OEM fluid in the clutch line, it will boil before the uprated brake fluid will...and the clutch basically becomes fully depressed and doesn't release, 10 mins of cooling and it will return to normal, but just a heads up if it happens, its nothing too much to worry about...I have RBF600 in the clutch line and its never been an issue
Hope this helps a bit mate
Motul RBF600 or RBF660 (slightly higher boiling points) are more than up to the job, great upgrades, won't boil - I've given both fluids a lot of abuse on track with the R26 and both totally fine.
Opie Oils - Automotive Oils, Fluids & Parts with the code 'TURBORENAULT' will get you 10% off as well, 1 Ltr is whats needed for the Mk2
I also found the OEM pads don't work if you brake above 100mph a few times.......
Myself and others can't rave and rant about the DS1.11 compound enough in the Mk2 meg fitment on the front calipers - proper head through the windscreen stopping power, but they will squeal at low speeds on the road - but the cold bite is much better than OEM on the road. Email or call JJC race and rally - tell them you are a member on here and you heard they can supply the pads for £163 (RRP 200) - at that price they are 3 times the pad the DS2500's are at £140!!! They don't have the part listed, but the part number is FCP1667W and they can supply - order before 3pm you always get it next day - used them 3 times.....
Don't know if you felt the clutch pedal change a little in feel as well...? but the clutch fluid and brake fluid are ran off the same reservoir....so if you have OEM fluid in the clutch line, it will boil before the uprated brake fluid will...and the clutch basically becomes fully depressed and doesn't release, 10 mins of cooling and it will return to normal, but just a heads up if it happens, its nothing too much to worry about...I have RBF600 in the clutch line and its never been an issue
Hope this helps a bit mate
R26230F1
Member
OEM fluid not up to the job on track really sadly - I found the same mate! 2 laps and the pedal was dead! ha
Motul RBF600 or RBF660 (slightly higher boiling points) are more than up to the job, great upgrades, won't boil - I've given both fluids a lot of abuse on track with the R26 and both totally fine.
Opie Oils - Automotive Oils, Fluids & Parts with the code 'TURBORENAULT' will get you 10% off as well, 1 Ltr is whats needed for the Mk2
I also found the OEM pads don't work if you brake above 100mph a few times.......
Myself and others can't rave and rant about the DS1.11 compound enough in the Mk2 meg fitment on the front calipers - proper head through the windscreen stopping power, but they will squeal at low speeds on the road - but the cold bite is much better than OEM on the road. Email or call JJC race and rally - tell them you are a member on here and you heard they can supply the pads for £163 (RRP 200) - at that price they are 3 times the pad the DS2500's are at £140!!! They don't have the part listed, but the part number is FCP1667W and they can supply - order before 3pm you always get it next day - used them 3 times.....
Don't know if you felt the clutch pedal change a little in feel as well...? but the clutch fluid and brake fluid are ran off the same reservoir....so if you have OEM fluid in the clutch line, it will boil before the uprated brake fluid will...and the clutch basically becomes fully depressed and doesn't release, 10 mins of cooling and it will return to normal, but just a heads up if it happens, its nothing too much to worry about...I have RBF600 in the clutch line and its never been an issue
Hope this helps a bit mate
Thanks a lot! Will buy the fluids for sure. Think I got some life in pads yet. Yes the clutch did go soft but it thought it was in my head.
There was a back straight where I got up to 110/120mph and then to slow down to a left hander was a poo in the pants moment.
Car Impressed loads too. Rear Tyres are shot. Reading other theads 595RSR?
papps
Well-Known Member
Great to hear it mate - these cars are something else, and really do punch massively above their weight on track for sure!
RSR great value for money (never used myself though, but from trusted feedback), they're hard wearing, will perform a lot better than a 'road' tyre, but will have to be careful in the wet.
AD08R is one thats banded around a lot as a track tyre, but I found its only good for 5 or 6 minutes at a time before they overheat. These also last a long long time tread wise - good compromise for 1 tyre for road and the occasional track blast.
As Andy said, its about striking the balance, I can get R888-R fitted up here for 140 each (cheaper than can get the tyre unfitted online) so at that price point - thats my track tyre atm. The Dunlops at 220 or so each are a bit too steep for me lol.
Yeah, fluid is the weakest link in the chain atm, just replacing it will make a huge difference, just be mindful that the pads will give out first before the pedal feel will change at all!
Good that the clutch felt a little soft, that can be a good indicator for you next time on track to let you know when the brakes are maybe needing a little break!
Any pics or footage mate?
papps
Well-Known Member
Euro Car Parts and most motor suppliers always have this in stock - you can get this same day if needed
R26230F1
Member
Thanks guys.
Yep the cars are crazy. Met a guy with a r26.r. Left me for dead. All about the weight no treble.
Unfortunately didn't get many pics. As I was using my phone as a recording device which was sucker mounted to the screen. This is now a safety hazard as can fall off, this had to be taken down. My cousin had a go pro which had to be cable tied as a make sure.
The lady is resting now. She made me smile loads, had a pro-btcc driver for a lesson as it was a Renault sport day. I thought I was spanking the car, he took it to another level. Lift off oversteer! Awesome! Drove a 220 Clio trophy thing. My r26 still felt better.
I'll put some pics up.
Yep the cars are crazy. Met a guy with a r26.r. Left me for dead. All about the weight no treble.
Unfortunately didn't get many pics. As I was using my phone as a recording device which was sucker mounted to the screen. This is now a safety hazard as can fall off, this had to be taken down. My cousin had a go pro which had to be cable tied as a make sure.
The lady is resting now. She made me smile loads, had a pro-btcc driver for a lesson as it was a Renault sport day. I thought I was spanking the car, he took it to another level. Lift off oversteer! Awesome! Drove a 220 Clio trophy thing. My r26 still felt better.
I'll put some pics up.
I can only echo everything to what papps has posted already. Based on his recommendations I also have the Motul 600 and the Ferodo DS1.11 pads. Unbelievable stopping power, very quick to work from cold. You can lean on them progressively depending on corners and they will drag you back. Almost stepping on the pedal and they will bring you to a standstill! I've had DS2500 pads and even Carbon Lorraine RC5 in Clios and thought they were good..... The DS1.11 are genuinely next level, and when you think the Megane isn't the lightest of cars and how they can slow that weight down so quickly.... I was super impressed.
I did the Blyton Park trackday and I never had one problem with them.
I did the Blyton Park trackday and I never had one problem with them.
papps
Well-Known Member
Mart
Staff member
Aii mate. If I'm boiling ATE blue (which I am/did at Blyton Saturday), then I need an upgrade (again) on brake fluid it would seem, hence gonna give the Motul stuff a try - If I boil that, I'll be speaking to Andy Cooke to see what the F1 cars use!
papps
Well-Known Member
Aii mate. If I'm boiling ATE blue (which I am/did at Blyton Saturday), then I need an upgrade (again) on brake fluid it would seem, hence gonna give the Motul stuff a try - If I boil that, I'll be speaking to Andy Cooke to see what the F1 cars use!
ATE TYP200 - Typical Dry Boiling Point : 280 Degrees C
Motul RBF600 (£12.95) - Typical Dry Boiling Point : 312 Degrees C (11% higher than TYP200)
Motul RBF660 (£15.95) - Typical Dry Boiling Point : 325 Degrees C (16% higher than TYP200)
Mart
Staff member
Yep, and that's the concern - That it's only 11% higher dbp than ATE, which in the grand scheme of things is feck all.
I remember Eugein measuring T-cup's front brake discs at Donington many years ago, and it was something well into the 500's C, and that was after a cool down lap, so if the Meg' is around the same, that Motul stuff may not be of much use either...depending on how much thermal transfer there is between disc/pad/fluid of course.
May have to look at running some cooling ducting...
@Mart,
I cant help but feel something else is wrong. I did Blyton last year in my meg and I was standing on the brakes last second. I dont got easy on them and I never , ever got fade. Right up until a rear caliper popped out a seal.
Are the brakes dragging/binding ? Are the caliper pistons not going back in due to scoring when getting hot ? Are the pads sufficiently loose to go back without expanding and getting stuck ?
