There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Phase II - Wheel Bolt Size
- Thread starter GlowRed
- Start date
Matt":mjo8ojoc said:
Thanks for the very quick response Matt. :salut:
After reading a previous post I thought they were M12 but then I went onto K-Tec racing's web site and they quote M14 for their V6 spacers.
Fingers crossed the spacers and bolts will be OK. I purchased some 15mm Sparco spacers from a guy in Italy.
From what I can establish the wheel bolt size is as follows:
Thread size: M12 (12mm)
Pitch: 1.5mm
Seat: 60 Degree Tapered
Head: 19mm
Standard thread length: 25mm
With 15mm spacers. Thread length: 40mm
(Thread length is measured from the bottom of the taper)
Any other information or if I've made an error then please advise.
Thread size: M12 (12mm)
Pitch: 1.5mm
Seat: 60 Degree Tapered
Head: 19mm
Standard thread length: 25mm
With 15mm spacers. Thread length: 40mm
(Thread length is measured from the bottom of the taper)
Any other information or if I've made an error then please advise.
I have now managed to get a set of Cromodoras [smilie=yay.gif]
I have ordered 15mm spacers for the front and now need to order some new wheel bolts.
I'm hoping to go for Titanium bolts and have been in communication with a company that will custom make them for me. As you can imagine they aren't cheap so getting the specification correct is critical.
I have been presented with 2 options. Option 1 is for single piece bolts and option for for 2-piece bolts.
The 2-piece bolt has a floating washer and offers the following benefits
-reduces the chance of marring the wheels
-floating washer, allows the collar to seat properly on the wheel before applying final torque
-this helps with any minor misalignment between the wheel and the hub
The manufacturer recommends using anti-seize lubricant to help prevent gauling amongst the metals.
Option 1:
Product: Single piece titanium lug bolt set
Thread: M12x1.5
Seat: Conical 60 Degree taper
Head: 17mm hex
Shank Length: 10 x bolts @ 25mm and 10 x bolts @ 40mm
Option 2:
Product: 2-piece titanium lug bolt set
Thread: M12x1.5
Seat: Conical 60 Degree taper
Head: 17mm hex
Shank Length: 10 x bolts @ 25mm and 10 x bolts @ 40mm
My questions are which option will be best for my lovely Cromodora wheels. Single or 2-piece?
Is the bolt specification correct?
Are Titanium bolts OK to use with my Cromodora's?
Are the standard 25mm bolts correct for the rear Cromodora wheels?
Are the 40mm bolts correct for the front Cromodoars with 15mm spacers?
Is it OK that the thread does not run the length of the bolt? and if not, how much thread should there be?
Any other help would be appreciated.
I have ordered 15mm spacers for the front and now need to order some new wheel bolts.
I'm hoping to go for Titanium bolts and have been in communication with a company that will custom make them for me. As you can imagine they aren't cheap so getting the specification correct is critical.
I have been presented with 2 options. Option 1 is for single piece bolts and option for for 2-piece bolts.
The 2-piece bolt has a floating washer and offers the following benefits
-reduces the chance of marring the wheels
-floating washer, allows the collar to seat properly on the wheel before applying final torque
-this helps with any minor misalignment between the wheel and the hub
The manufacturer recommends using anti-seize lubricant to help prevent gauling amongst the metals.
Option 1:
Product: Single piece titanium lug bolt set
Thread: M12x1.5
Seat: Conical 60 Degree taper
Head: 17mm hex
Shank Length: 10 x bolts @ 25mm and 10 x bolts @ 40mm
Option 2:
Product: 2-piece titanium lug bolt set
Thread: M12x1.5
Seat: Conical 60 Degree taper
Head: 17mm hex
Shank Length: 10 x bolts @ 25mm and 10 x bolts @ 40mm
My questions are which option will be best for my lovely Cromodora wheels. Single or 2-piece?
Is the bolt specification correct?
Are Titanium bolts OK to use with my Cromodora's?
Are the standard 25mm bolts correct for the rear Cromodora wheels?
Are the 40mm bolts correct for the front Cromodoars with 15mm spacers?
Is it OK that the thread does not run the length of the bolt? and if not, how much thread should there be?
Any other help would be appreciated.
Last edited by a moderator:
rustedandrotten
Well-Known Member
Carl,
gentle warning, the mix of metals you have is heading for a train wreck for normal day to day use, particularly if you get wet winter roads involved, stick with 2 piece bolts, preferrably galvanised in preference to anything else as the washer stays static against the wheel when tightening and should protect the coating on your wheels from getting damaged, thus avoiding a cell forming. Magnesium has a very high tendancy to corrode preferentially in any corrosion cell situation and the drive is from the potential difference (PD) between the two metals, the bigger the difference the bigger the driving (EMF) force.
Materials you have mixed here are as follows:
(Gold,reference) 0.0v
Titanium -0.3v
Stainless -0.5v
Carbon steel -0.9v
Galvanised -1.25v
Magnesium -1.75v
As you can see Ti and Mg will have nearly 1.5 volts and will eat your wheels in no time! Contact between the hub and wheel will be about half of that but galv will be down to a more acceptable 0.5 volts. bear in mind though that galvanising and zinc anodes protect steel in hostile environments with only 0.35volts PD! As long as your wheel as fully coated and there is no exposed metal or metal/metal contact you should be OK but dont introduce a driver that is going to find and exploit any potential weak spot. Ensure lube between the bolt and washer, Molycote probably as good as it gets, tighten carefully using correct torque, do not use impact guns as these tend to overtighten and damage coatings! likewise be careful of wheel/hub interface and if you use metal valves make sure they are not metal metal contact. Other than that, enjoy your new wheels and make sure next door's dog doesn't cock its leg on them otherwise they will disappear at a phenomenal rate! :approve:
With regards the length of thread, you only need thread to go into the hub, further exposed thread only weakens the bolt, you do not want machine cut threads you need rolled or forged bolts for maximum strength!
gentle warning, the mix of metals you have is heading for a train wreck for normal day to day use, particularly if you get wet winter roads involved, stick with 2 piece bolts, preferrably galvanised in preference to anything else as the washer stays static against the wheel when tightening and should protect the coating on your wheels from getting damaged, thus avoiding a cell forming. Magnesium has a very high tendancy to corrode preferentially in any corrosion cell situation and the drive is from the potential difference (PD) between the two metals, the bigger the difference the bigger the driving (EMF) force.
Materials you have mixed here are as follows:
(Gold,reference) 0.0v
Titanium -0.3v
Stainless -0.5v
Carbon steel -0.9v
Galvanised -1.25v
Magnesium -1.75v
As you can see Ti and Mg will have nearly 1.5 volts and will eat your wheels in no time! Contact between the hub and wheel will be about half of that but galv will be down to a more acceptable 0.5 volts. bear in mind though that galvanising and zinc anodes protect steel in hostile environments with only 0.35volts PD! As long as your wheel as fully coated and there is no exposed metal or metal/metal contact you should be OK but dont introduce a driver that is going to find and exploit any potential weak spot. Ensure lube between the bolt and washer, Molycote probably as good as it gets, tighten carefully using correct torque, do not use impact guns as these tend to overtighten and damage coatings! likewise be careful of wheel/hub interface and if you use metal valves make sure they are not metal metal contact. Other than that, enjoy your new wheels and make sure next door's dog doesn't cock its leg on them otherwise they will disappear at a phenomenal rate! :approve:
With regards the length of thread, you only need thread to go into the hub, further exposed thread only weakens the bolt, you do not want machine cut threads you need rolled or forged bolts for maximum strength!
Simon,
Thank you for the terrifying message about my new wheels disintegrating if I use titanium bolts.
I have noticed that the holes where the wheel bolts go have a sleeve in them, see the attached photo. Any ideas what these are? It looks to me like it is made from a different metal.
So will Titanium bolts destroy my wheels or will they be protected by the metal sleeves?
If I have to get different bolts, where can I obtain some high quality 2-piece wheel bolts?
Thank you for the terrifying message about my new wheels disintegrating if I use titanium bolts.
I have noticed that the holes where the wheel bolts go have a sleeve in them, see the attached photo. Any ideas what these are? It looks to me like it is made from a different metal.
So will Titanium bolts destroy my wheels or will they be protected by the metal sleeves?
If I have to get different bolts, where can I obtain some high quality 2-piece wheel bolts?
Last edited by a moderator:
rustedandrotten
Well-Known Member
Carl
they wont disintegrate! you just need to be careful mixing exotics if you don't need to. Having galv inserts in the wheel is going to cause enough stress without adding to it! I would personally keep with galv 8.8 bolts, might not be the prettyest or most Hitec but they will do the best job :approve: . Having nearly lost a wheel at Montlhery last year, just make sure they are correctly torqued and in the correct cross counter rather than round and round! Your Croms are expensive assets and need to be protected! If you want them tested for cracks, crystalline embrittlement etc we have the facilities up here, pm me!
they wont disintegrate! you just need to be careful mixing exotics if you don't need to. Having galv inserts in the wheel is going to cause enough stress without adding to it! I would personally keep with galv 8.8 bolts, might not be the prettyest or most Hitec but they will do the best job :approve: . Having nearly lost a wheel at Montlhery last year, just make sure they are correctly torqued and in the correct cross counter rather than round and round! Your Croms are expensive assets and need to be protected! If you want them tested for cracks, crystalline embrittlement etc we have the facilities up here, pm me!
