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Phase 2 clutch question for real epert

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Please don't answer here if you never did the job yourself. I can do the guessing myself. :D


I noticed that the combinated pressureplate, frictiondisc and connected secondary flywheelpart has some radial and axial play in relation to the primairy flywheelpart connected to the crackshaft.

It feels like it is just connected through some bladespring, which allows the clutch to move freely in the fixed part flywheel.

Is this normal, and does anybody know the maximum allowed play? I couldn'tfind anything in the repair manuals :(
 
Come on, nobody in this forum does the maintenance himself?? :shock:

In the meanwhile my question has been answered.

The play in the clutch is normal. It feels a bit mushy, but the expert at Renault told me it was fully normal. :o
 
Nope ... hence why I didn't respond to the question ;).

However, I knew that theoretically the play was expected because of it being a dual-mass flywheel.
 
I think most people try there hand at some maintenance on the vee but unless you have access to a hydraulic lift most jobs are out of the question to the home mechanic on there drive.

I dont know much about replacing clutches anyway so didnt even attempt to answer your question. :wink:
 
As Dennis and Andy say I suppose some of us knew the theory of what you were asking, based on the dual mass flywheel design, but because you wanted a 'definitive' answer only those who have done the work could answer.

Martin
 
@John V6,
Yep I knew that too, but when you encounter it for the first time, like everything you touch for the first time :shock: , it just felt a bit toooo much.

Oh, and for anybody who's interested in it, the flaws I found after 150000km:

Sealing driveshaft engine side started leaking a bit.

Starter engine broke down (start of the whole maintenance)

One of the flatbelt rollers started to lose it's bearing (the fixed one).

The electric cable to the starter and alternator had been melted a bit due to the exhaust. I noted a remark on this from another user on this. I will just insulate the cable a bit better.
The problem with this it isn't an easy detect to spot since it isn't visible with the exhaust mounted.

Since the engine is out I'm also going to replace the timingbelt, rollers and waterpump. The costs of this was quite anoying: 400 euros.

I also marked down the time I needed to do the cambelt job.
Taking out the engine (first time) 6 hours.
Replacing timebelt 1.5 hour.
Time to put back in the engine, don't know yet but probably 8 hours. You could use this as an indication what it might cost in a proper workshop. (I'm not a pro)


During my 150000 km,
1 engine replaced due to a manufacturing fault in a timing belt spanner roll.
2 coils replaced.
1 engine seal replaced around a sensor.

So all in all quite reliable for a hot hatch. :D
 
If I remember correctly, Renault allow about 8 - 9 hours for the cam belt etc.

You do not have to remove engine etc to carry this work out.

Belt kit about £450 plus labour, just under 1k.
 
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