9 turbo Phase 1 9 Turbo

[DaveL485]

Thanks @Brigsy. Your coilpack mount is nice. I may have to copy it.

Same, I have the same coilpack too, so will be a shamless copy/paste!

Small update, I found the missing pump drive woggle sat in a dish of oil so at least I have it. I span the pump shaft with my milwaukee gun and it picked up oil and filled the gallery, so that works too. Dropped the drive in, popped the dizzy back in too for now, waiting for the second starter motor to arrive. And then...WE CRANK.

 

[DaveL485]

Thanks to a base map from Brigsy we're now up and running!

https://cliosport.net/data/video/1603/1603392-311acce570b4a37288d7cd02b050d304.mp4

I think the run time with no oil pressure might have goosed the turbo though, its gone pretty stiff

 

[DaveL485]

Remind me of the head retorque procedure please? One stage release and tighten in the circular pattern, 65lb/ft?

What are the valve (rocker) clearances? Its that long since I did a C1J I can't remember lol

 

[sparkie]

Remind me of the head retorque procedure please? One stage release and tighten in the circular pattern, 65lb/ft?

What are the valve (rocker) clearances? Its that long since I did a C1J I can't remember lol

Start in the middle, work in a clockwise spiral, 40Nm, 60Nm then 70-75Nm, then go round again 3 times just to make sure at 75Nm.
Standard cam inlet 8 thou, exhaust 10 thou, uprated cam is 10 thou inlet, 12 thou exhaust.

 

[Brigsy]

Slacken bolts off half a turn and torque. 70nm on 12.9 bolts.

Valve clearances in .20/.25 ex. Any cam usually.

 

[DaveL485]

Perfectly answered as always...thank you both.

 

[DaveL485]

So I've had a right old game with oil pressure to the turbo, looks like the original oil feed was restricting flow. Oil was getting through when I cranked it to test, but not enough not to feck the turbo up. I ended up tearing the lot out and making a whole new feed pipe with AN6 fittings, and plumbed in an aftermaket gauge while I was at it to keep an eye on things. Good pressure now, turbo spinning nicely.

CANNOT find my Zeitronix AFR kit, which came off my 21 with the Adaptronic. Fuming! Need that to tune the idle in a bit better.

Also chucked the magnesium 16" wheels on it.

 

[andybond]

You should be able to tune the idle by ear. There is a really, really sweet spot for the carb via gentle persuasion of the idle screw.

 

[sparkie]

You should be able to tune the idle by ear. There is a really, really sweet spot for the carb via gentle persuasion of the idle screw.

If only he had a carb to adjust....

 

[andybond]

If only he had a carb to adjust....

You have passed the test.

 

[DaveL485]

So - had a few days off work and got a few bits done.

Started off by mounting the Clio 197 rad - didnt want to hack the car around so I made some brackets to bolt to holes already available on the subframe.







Painted & fitted

 

[DaveL485]

I found my Zeitronix ZT3 (at last) in the cupboard, and decided to fit that up, meaning I needed a lambda in the downpipe, so I did that and found some leftover wrap in the cupboard too, which conveniently was just the right length.









Little bit of jiggery pokery in the ECU software and that was hooked up and working, so I could fiddle with the idle/fast idle AFR's.

Then decided to mount the coil pack with something other than zip ties, so made a bracket for that too. Typically the coil needs 80mm M6 bolts to mount it and the longest I have in stock was 70mm, so ordered those.







I did paint the coil mount too, just didnt take a pic if it.

 

[DaveL485]

Final thing on the 9 this time around, I was wondering why the (one) headlight that was fitted wasnt working right, well, the block connector to the headlight had disintigrating terminals. What you dont realise with more modern cars being so prevalent now is that the block connectors here werent weather sealed, they're just open block terminals...not only that but on this age of car the connectors arent even plated so they rot like a sumbitch. I chopped out the old block, crimped in new terminals, made a nice clean fresh shared earth for the whole light block and...





You may, or may not notice, that not only are the headlight cells brand new but so is the backing panel and mounting clips - I cannot convey to you how much time & effort it took to find these parts! So, to have it working it rather satisfying

 

[DaveL485]

Oh, one more thing - I got my son in to help me adjust the gear linkage. I stuck the box in 5th, then he held the stick in 5th gear position while I tightened the linkage - this worked and I now have all six gears available, the clutch works, AND the (electronic) speedo still works - result!

 

[DaveL485]

Got a load done on the grey 21 at the weekend and this left me enough time to do a bit on the 9, so I made a bracket for the EFI fuel regulator. It'll bolt to the OSF turret above the brake master.

 

[DaveL485]

Trying to install the ECU properly now and god damn - making a loom up that doesnt look an absolute disaster is difficult! I redid the fan loom 3 times before I was anywhere near happy with it,

 

[Steve Swan]

I've got some Knitting pins I can lend you..

 

[DaveL485]

Blackwire scourge!



Pulled out a load of wiring I dont need (probably)



Temp gauge working, also wired in the alternator which I had initially got wrong and the cables were a shambles anyway so now the battery light works and the alternator charges. Temp gauge was a sod to do, I had to take the dash out, take the temp gauge out of the dash itself, figure out which pin did what, when I found the signal wire I had to trace that to the connector on the dash panel plug to find the wire then follow it through the car to the exit of the chassis rail. The pin in the engine bay plug was dust which is why I couldnt get a continuity test. Chopped that bit out, wired it up and voila!




Rev counter also wired and working!

 

[DaveL485]

Also popped in the other headlight ready to be wired up

 

[Steve Swan]

French car wiring Uurgh. Been utter Pish since the 50's