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PH1 Continuous Cranking Non-Start

Oldskoolbaby":4eska66p said:
[post]229344[/post] Will keep shut from now on.
I'm just messing mate :P

@Sabotage it ran, you changed the flywheel and now it doesn't run with no CAS signal, stick the old fly back in and see if it starts, its a no brainer, if a bit of pain in the ass! You got to rule it out at least.
 
DaveL485":23ume2wp said:
Oldskoolbaby":23ume2wp said:
[post]229344[/post] Will keep shut from now on.
I'm just messing mate :P

@Sabotage it ran, you changed the flywheel and now it doesn't run with no CAS signal, stick the old fly back in and see if it starts, its a no brainer, if a bit of pain in the ass! You got to rule it out at least.

The other thing that was changed was a phase 2 transmission. the bell housings, speed sensor positions looked visually similar. The parts listings in knowledge base are not very helpful. Does anyone know whether these transmissions were interchangeable?

Thank you
 
Szabotage":19lm4oe9 said:
DaveL485":19lm4oe9 said:
Oldskoolbaby":19lm4oe9 said:
[post]229344[/post] Will keep shut from now on.
I'm just messing mate :P

@Sabotage it ran, you changed the flywheel and now it doesn't run with no CAS signal, stick the old fly back in and see if it starts, its a no brainer, if a bit of pain in the ass! You got to rule it out at least.

The other thing that was changed was a phase 2 transmission. the bell housings, speed sensor positions looked visually similar. The parts listings in knowledge base are not very helpful. Does anyone know whether these transmissions were interchangeable?

Thank you
Change from p1 to p2 transmission is common upgrade with no issues, basically totally interchangeable as p2 box is looked upon as superior.
 
Thanks again for everybody's inputs

So after a couple weeks, 5 different laptops, finally got the Renault CAN Clip software to connect. It's generated 2 codes. Have not gone through testing as per diagnostic manual yet. Will do next week, just want to see what you guys think.

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For the sake of a couple of hours work, I would have whipped the flywheel off and put the original one back in along with a new crank sensor. I’d check the wire leading up to the sensor too.
 
Oldskoolbaby":mskn8ffs said:
For the sake of a couple of hours work, I would have whipped the flywheel off and put the original one back in along with a new crank sensor. I’d check the wire leading up to the sensor too.
I'd have done this immediately after the realisation the flywheel had been changed. It's a no brainer, if only to rule it out.
 
DaveL485":1qie4dx8 said:
Oldskoolbaby":1qie4dx8 said:
For the sake of a couple of hours work, I would have whipped the flywheel off and put the original one back in along with a new crank sensor. I’d check the wire leading up to the sensor too.
I'd have done this immediately after the realisation the flywheel had been changed. It's a no brainer, if only to rule it out.

I think we're all of the same opinion.
Ignore the injector fault for now, that may well not be there when it eventually runs !
 
Thank you everyone for comments. Been really busy, just getting time to rotate this back in focus.

Am checking with the vendor whether the new Helix clutch disc/cover are compatible with OE flywheel. Once confirmed, agreed we are looking at reinstalling the OE FW.

Meanwhile have tested the CPS/TDC sensor wiring @ connector C (black) for continuity & interference issues. It’s fine and the Renault Clip data stream picks up RPMs with in range above 200RPM @ cranking.

Problem is this only lasts for 3-5 seconds then cuts off.

Does everyone agree it's either a) a ECU/UCH issue or b) flywheel causing the ECU to send command to fuel pump/injection relays because the signal is out of range and can not find TDC? Just not convinced because data stream shows RPM in range. Manual states starter turns @ 250rpm.

Would like to pick brains, and ask under what circumstances besides not finding TDC would either the ECU or UCH switch off both fuel pump and ignition (lock) relays?

Videos from Renault Clip Data Stream:
https://youtu.be/qiYcgbwMuuc
https://youtu.be/F4IySrLk26k

Thank you!
 
UCH/ECU/Immobilizer/Key/Relays all eliminated with tester car. Rebuilt clutch is on the way here so we can refit the original flywheel.

Did a search to no avail. Can anyone point me in the direction for best method to drop the transmission?

Thank you!
 
Subframe off, driveshafts popped out (get ready to catch the oil!) Support the nearside of the engine across the baulkheads, unbolt. It’s nothing difficult and a turn around should only take a couple of hours with the occasional cuppa along the way.
 
Oldskoolbaby":wxnvqox6 said:
Subframe off, driveshafts popped out (get ready to catch the oil!) Support the nearside of the engine across the baulkheads, unbolt. It’s nothing difficult and a turn around should only take a couple of hours with the occasional cuppa along the way.

fantastic, thank you!
 
Want to extend a big Thank You! to everyone who've contributed with this issue. Happy to report it is now resolved.

You guys were right. IT WAS THE HELIX FLYWHEEL in the end... wasn't producing data that the ECU need to see for a start.

Got the standard clutch refurbished, back in with OE flywheel and boom, she's alive.

:approve: Thank you ALL again! :approve:
 
Get a TTV as we know they work and will use oem clutch from Ph1! Anything much lighter the ecu won’t catch coming down to tick over, so will be stalling all the time.
 
Szabotage":2bnxvi93 said:
Want to extend a big Thank You! to everyone who've contributed with this issue. Happy to report it is now resolved.

You guys were right. IT WAS THE HELIX FLYWHEEL in the end... wasn't producing data that the ECU need to see for a start.

Got the standard clutch refurbished, back in with OE flywheel and boom, she's alive.

:approve: Thank you ALL again! :approve:
I'm just glad we didnt lead you up the garden path and had the box out again for nothing lol
 
rustedandrotten":27lpko68 said:
Get a TTV as we know they work and will use oem clutch from Ph1! Anything much lighter the ecu won’t catch coming down to tick over, so will be stalling all the time.

The much lighter snappier Trophy setup with twin plate tilton seems to work fine. TTV is best for a road car either way.
 
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