Been a contributing member on this forum for a couple years now, great resource. Stumped after weeks of trying various things and hoping to find a solution for our non-start issue. Have searched and read the forum for every available post to do with non-start. Below is a summary of what we’ve done, hopefully someone can add where we may have missed something. Thank you!
Works: Engine out – Swapped PH1 transmission with PH2 version. Replaced timing belt/coil packs/plugs. Upgraded to LWFW & new Clutch.
- Followed manual instructions for timing belt.
- Made sure new LWFW tooth/CPS lines up same as OEM.
V6 PH1
Car started fine before works.
Starter cranks for as long as key is in starting position, but does not fire. (No Spark / No Fuel @ injectors.)
Throttle body cycles & Fuel pump primes when key in on position.
Immobilizer:
Engine refitted in the car, Battery recharged: The red LED light flashed at slow rate and remained so with key in ON position as well as during cranking.
We followed various key resetting methods for PH1 clios. One of the procedures seemed to work as the red dash LED resumed normal function, as described in the manual i.e.
- Flash slow rate with key removed and when unarmed/armed.
- Turns solid when key is turned to on position, then turns off.
- Flashes quickly when a known BAD (spare) key is used.
- OBD2 Reader showed a DTC relating to the ring transponder – BUT we are not sure if that is a relevant or a saved code. Code comes back when cleared.
If the problem is with the transponder ring, we would expect the LED indicator to show communication was not possible i.e. solid ON LED. And if the immobilizer was armed, we would expect Not to be able to crank the engine beyond a few seconds. Are we correct in these assumptions?
Crank Position Sensor:
Old sensor - OBD2 live stream receives data with in first 3-4 seconds of cranking, then data cuts off even though starter still cranking.
CPS Sensor replaced – still no start.
Have tried:
Re-plugging & Checking for corrosion @
- Main ECU multiplug in rear hatch location.
- fuses/relays, checking for corrosion at fuse junctions in rear hatch and fuel pumps up front.
Would be most appreciative if someone could point us in the right direction. We think the wire harness may have broken connection(s) when the engine was removed.
- Have read about a wire break (that runs over the transmission) as a common culprit. Can anyone add more detail here such as location and wiring diagrams? There’s a couple wire diagrams in the electrical manual but they are difficult to read and do not indicate wire colors/locations.
- Is there a ground wire attached to the immobilizer ECU somewhere in the dash? We did not remove anything here but would like to check it if we can find it.
Thanks in Advance!
Works: Engine out – Swapped PH1 transmission with PH2 version. Replaced timing belt/coil packs/plugs. Upgraded to LWFW & new Clutch.
- Followed manual instructions for timing belt.
- Made sure new LWFW tooth/CPS lines up same as OEM.
V6 PH1
Car started fine before works.
Starter cranks for as long as key is in starting position, but does not fire. (No Spark / No Fuel @ injectors.)
Throttle body cycles & Fuel pump primes when key in on position.
Immobilizer:
Engine refitted in the car, Battery recharged: The red LED light flashed at slow rate and remained so with key in ON position as well as during cranking.
We followed various key resetting methods for PH1 clios. One of the procedures seemed to work as the red dash LED resumed normal function, as described in the manual i.e.
- Flash slow rate with key removed and when unarmed/armed.
- Turns solid when key is turned to on position, then turns off.
- Flashes quickly when a known BAD (spare) key is used.
- OBD2 Reader showed a DTC relating to the ring transponder – BUT we are not sure if that is a relevant or a saved code. Code comes back when cleared.
If the problem is with the transponder ring, we would expect the LED indicator to show communication was not possible i.e. solid ON LED. And if the immobilizer was armed, we would expect Not to be able to crank the engine beyond a few seconds. Are we correct in these assumptions?
Crank Position Sensor:
Old sensor - OBD2 live stream receives data with in first 3-4 seconds of cranking, then data cuts off even though starter still cranking.
CPS Sensor replaced – still no start.
Have tried:
Re-plugging & Checking for corrosion @
- Main ECU multiplug in rear hatch location.
- fuses/relays, checking for corrosion at fuse junctions in rear hatch and fuel pumps up front.
Would be most appreciative if someone could point us in the right direction. We think the wire harness may have broken connection(s) when the engine was removed.
- Have read about a wire break (that runs over the transmission) as a common culprit. Can anyone add more detail here such as location and wiring diagrams? There’s a couple wire diagrams in the electrical manual but they are difficult to read and do not indicate wire colors/locations.
- Is there a ground wire attached to the immobilizer ECU somewhere in the dash? We did not remove anything here but would like to check it if we can find it.
Thanks in Advance!
Recharged battery and tried again, no better then stopped cranking???? [smilie=icon_eek.gif] Checked voltage and seemed ok at 12.8v, put on boost pack and still nothing! Trickled over night, still misbehaving. Battery is a Bosch S4 007, 18 months old so should be no issue. To hell with this,FIT NEW BATTERY, turn key and instant start! [cmilie=iconcheers.gif] [cmilie=iconcheers.gif] :approve: Put old one on drop tester and the voltage plummeted under load, so one cell probably sulphated meaning that the ecu was unstable hence problems.
