mk1 keyfob.. not unlocking the car

[ColinG]

well...the latest in a fooking long line of things wrong with the car..

the keyfob isnt unlocking the car or doing anything..so i call out the greenflag and they come armed with a battery...

no difference..the little red LED isnt flashing and when you press the button there isnt the usual click noise..

any idea? or is it ANOTHER trip to the dealers?? having to manually unlock the car is so cack :cry:

 

[v6Max]

Is the replacement battery definitely a worker?
Has anybody tampered with the curteosy light assembly?
Does the central locking work from within the car if you press the lock/unlock button?

 

[John V6]

Main battery low.

 

[ColinG]

this happened last saturday, car starts fine etc so doubt the main battery is at fault..

the car centrally locks from within the car etc...but the LED next to the interior lock button flashes constantly..

 

[V6 Ade]

Get rid of the O.E alarm and get a clifford fitted, problem solved

 

[John V6]

Is rear boot closed correctly ?

 

[Eastlmark]

http://s15.invisionfree.com/CLIO_V6_OWN ... wtopic=126

 

[ColinG]

eastlmark that link doesnt work??

clifford could be a way forwards i daresay

 

[clarkiev6]

i had to buy a new fob for mine...programmed it myself and its bin fine for over a year.
you should always have a spare as well.

 

[ColinG]

the car came to me with 2 keys..and one fob?

isnt that correct on mk1's??

 

[Eastlmark]

From http://www.cliov6ownersclub.com

Just had a remote key fob (for the clio ph1) die on me. After replacing the battery made it no better I decided to invstigate and found the tiny surface mount switch on the pcb had become detatched at one end. Its not surprising really as this takes all the strain when we press on the outside button especially when trying to operate it too far away or with a weak battery results in pressing it even harder than we need to.

you can see the switch just below the square cut out in the board. Its an extremely delicate pcb so extreme care is needed and dont use that wacking great 40 watt soldering iron! You need an extremely fine pointed 15 watt max and good eye sight and a steady hand. Idealy, you should use solder paste and a hot air iron but that does involve the removal of the switch so I decided, with nothing to loose really, to gently bend up the loose end, apply a tiny solder blob to the pad on the pcb and then tin the remains of the switch lead wire, press them together and apply the iron again for just long enough to melt the solder. I cannot stress how important it is not to heat up the nearby chip, the switch itself and other components. Well, it worked for me and must be worth a shot.
Note also in the photo the position of the battery with the + side down against the plastic case as it is not indicated in the fob or the manual which way this should be.

 

[nick_d]

two points - first, your car should have had 2 keys and 2 fobs.

 

[nick_d]

2nd - as clarkiev6 said "i had to buy a new fob for mine...programmed it myself"

how can we program them and does it need to be a new one orcan we reprogram an old one????

 

[clarkiev6]

you can re-program the old one sometimes...
i have 3 keys and 3 fobs... programmed them in with CLIP..