Used every last one of them! Was still making power as well!all the revs![]()
I know you said it was smooth but that is a lot better on the graph.Well,
Part 231 of the Exige.
I am sure you wont need reminding of the previous series of posts where in reverse chronological order where I had a new shiny back box built after I found a knackered back box that caused a loss of power despite putting a komotec manifold on.
So this is the post to bring us upto date
As ever I used the super reliable, friendly and knowledgeable RSTuning.
Here are some pictures of a dirty exige ( it was clean when I left ) on the dyno
View attachment 199616
View attachment 199617
With almost no changes we made +15bhp on the last result. However lots and lots of fuel was added. Various things tweaked and a load of advance added to the map ( again! )
This yielded 282.1hp ( its all about the .1 ) and 189.2ftib or in a nutshell more than the car has ever had.
I have below the mapping dyno print.
Red is when the car was first completed to AndySpec with the chargecooler etc ( 268.5 hp )
Green is when the car was last tested after putting on a komotec manifold and baffled me how I lost power - but I know now ( 256 hp )
Pink is the latest dyno with some super smooth lines of torque and hp goodness.
View attachment 199618
One nagging thing in my mind. .45bar was observed as the boost pressure. Thats a bit lower than I had anticipated. Do I have the 2.9inch pulley that I thought I had?
Tune in soon to find out when I goto Daves[mention]seriouslylotus[/mention] and have the car serviced, tyres fitted and ask Dave nicely to measure my pulley.
View attachment 199614
View attachment 199615
Isnt it just Mark? Its flowing so well.I know you said it was smooth but that is a lot better on the graph.![]()
Adequate.How do you find the nitrons?
Been looking at them for my 5.
I’m just going to use std bilsteins for now until it’s built and I can weigh it. (Gathering bits at the moment). All a big unknown at the moment, but can’t see it weighing much more than an exige . (Hopefully)Adequate.
I think I am reaching the limits of them. However for the cash they are decent
This is my thought. Is it just a case of wheel off , drop link undone and place at next hole along making it 4 out of 4 for stiffness?Ha remember joys of cut and shut of many arches eaten by tyres on vx220's
Used to make good out of spare ones past the point of no return and sikaflex action...charge cooler pipes never helped when squeezed in
Def looks like aftermarket arb even if it has lived under the sea
While you could go one stiffer keep an eye on drop link angle![]()
I'm not sure it works like that, an ARB means when the OS suspension is compressed in cornering, the ARB twists and pulls the NS suspension down, countering roll (Anti roll bar, see?)This is my thought. Is it just a case of wheel off , drop link undone and place at next hole along making it 4 out of 4 for stiffness?
Explain please.
One way to adjust the stiffness of the roll bar is to change the length of the cantilevers. This can be done in a couple of ways. One way, more popular in aftermarket bolt on parts, is to have multiple different mounting positions along the length of the cantilever for the drop link to bolt to. The shorter that the cantilever is made; the stiffer the roll bar will become and vice versa.