There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Clio Limp mode p0120 172 turbo

Sparkysparks

Well-Known Member
Hi all.
So I've sold the last of my Renaults! Well taken a deposit on the Clio turbo...and now it decides to start playing up.
I need some help here cus I'm at a loss, considering either just giving it away for cheap or keeping it altogether and forgetting about it again (problem is I've already bought it's replacement and I really shouldn't have)

PXL_20250203_105839114.webp

Getting limp mode p0120 after a little rev.
With the eml coming on and the heartbeat box.
I've gone through the fuse box wiring connectors and cleaned them all up, didn't seem that bad but it's starting and running easier now.
It idles like with a miss fire but revs cleanly, untill it hits the limp mode.

I read somewhere that the fuel pump can be throwing up this code, so I pulled that out and found my submersible fuel hose had deteriorated, swapped that out but still it runs the same.
PXL_20250204_102234540.webp

Throttle body doesn't seem to do much on ignition unless I put the pedal to the floor, then it just cracks open a little bit.

Ice tried a second throttle pedal and it changes nothing.

Wiring to the pedal is shared with the brake and clutch switch. Interestingly if I unplug them then the throttle is unresponsive completely.
If I unplug everything and run it, idle either sits at 3k or hunts around 500.

Car looks spot on and ice already massively discounted the price.
What do I need to check now?
I don't have access to clip and I can't take the car anywhere.
Any ideas atall would be appreciated.
Cheers
 
Yes thats the thread I found. I should also mention it kangarood hard when I tried to dust the cobwebs off up the road. Almost undriveable.

Looks like I'm going to try the bulkhead connector and O2 sensor next then. Cheers. I'll update
 
Bulkhead connector was free of corrosion and a pain to get to. Cleaned up with contact cleaner and put back together anyway and no change atall.
O2 sensor unplugged and no change again.
Holding the brake and trying the throttle is a new one to me. What's going on
 
Google lists it as a throttle pedal fault? I think with the throttle pressed and ignition on the throttle should go fully open, then close. Can you set up a camera or anything to see if its fully actuating
 
Google lists it as a throttle pedal fault? I think with the throttle pressed and ignition on the throttle should go fully open, then close. Can you set up a camera or anything to see if its fully actuating
This is what I observed with my MK1 f4r. It was either shut or fully open. This is not the same. It was messing about opening a bit and closing but now it's just opening a crack if atall. I've had the body off to watch it and given it a few gentle taps to see if it springs into life but nope.

Problem is Adey. I've already taken a deposit 😆
Normally I'd call the sale off and give the buyer his money back but as I've said. Ive already spent the money on something else silly.

Feels to me like it's still a corrosion issue but I've cleaned the lot. Might have another look at that white loom plug tomorrow.
 
Looking at other threads it looks like it's almost never the pedal or the body. Could be an issue with anything on the 5v circuit. Points me to to corrosion again, but this car has sat for a year under a cover, which I will never do again. Holding in all that lovely moisture, so corrosion on everything?
 
Just got in from work and got 5 mins
Screenshot_20250205-064259.webp
Main culprit I think. 6 or 7 of them were a bit crusty. Have sanded them up to a nice shine and roughly put back together to test. I've not started it but on ignition the throttle body now behaves like I think it should, full with the pedal down. So hopefully thats what this was. Will go start it in a few hours and report back again.
 
All done. It has fixed my issue or limp mode and p0120. All put back together.
Took it up the road. Immediate missing and kangarooing still.
So I take the fuel pump out to see if it's sucking any air. New jubilee clips on the pipe and back together. Same thing.
Starts to miss fire a bit on idle and revving.
Injector 2 seems to be the culprit.
So I take the injectors off and give them a clean through. Back together all clean, same thing.
Coilpacl is brand new and sparking away on all 4 cylinders.
So I have a look at the spark plugs.
PXL_20250205_115309473.webp
PXL_20250205_120333234.webp
Number 2 was the one where water full full in the bore.
I WILL NEVER USE A BREATHABLE CAR COVER AGAIN!
All cleaned out and spark plugs back in.
Same thing.
I've got to get some sleep and have a think now.
Fuel is showing empty but it's got a bit in there
I've had my hand in there a few times today.
Power loss under any loading? With no eml now. I'm lost again!
 
Stick some fresh fuel in if not done already. I took our 225 out last year with 14 month old fuel in and it would idle/light load fine, misfired like fuck on boost.

If its had fresh fuel in then id be looking at fuel pressure to see if fuel pump is unhappy after standing, and test injectors to see if spraying right
 
I've put about 4 litres in it to get it off the red but I don't know how much was in there before that. Will get another can of fuel in.
What resistance am I looking for about 14ish ohms?
Just to clarify. Those sparks look like that but they wouldn't be the problem would they? It either sparks or it doesn't.
 
Plugs look okish from the pics, give them a clean and regap. Check the leads are ok too as might have suffered with the water in the hole.

Assume its rising rate fuel system? check no vac hoses have perished.
 
Back
Top