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Kangoo 172 cup

Part 36 - chasing the misfire

So not had much joy curing this minor misfire. No codes stored on ecu and live data checks out ok.

List of things done

Coilpack, leads and plugs changed still the same

Cam timing bang on - done it before with cam timing slightly out

Lambdas swapped - both seem to check out ok on live data

Checked injector resistance all 15.8 ohms so all appear to check out - might get them cleaned on local ansu machine !?

Cleaned map sensor and fitted new o rings as only had one loose fitting oring

Cleaned throttle body

Rewired shit connections to tdc sensor - also cleaned tdc and found out that the bolts were loose when removing !

Shitty crimp and twisted wires
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Soldered and heat shrinked20180505_142542.webp
It drives ok and only the odd cough usually when crawling in 2nd so maybe im being too fussy - probably runs and idles metter than most 172/182s. Its getting to the crystal ball of swapping every part which gets expensive and tedious so will ride it out a bit longer.

Have been keeping ontop of the bodywork since machine polish still looks great. Been using it a bit too great on fuel 35mpg all the time cant argue with that for a 2.0. Thats all for now !

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37 - 2nd place

Give the Kangoo a blast out to the Cliosport Owners Club weekender a couple of weeks ago. Steady drive down there as the clutch release bearing is starting to make a racket and gearbox not great. 40 mpg no bother which is great though for a 2.0 petrol van.

Cleaned it up and stuck it in the show and shine, came 2nd and got a nice Angelwax pack so pleased with that20180513_145504.webp20180513_145439.webpACS Motorsport were doing corner weighting so stuck it on the scales to get an idea of weight. 1138kg so not that light. I see people saying the Kangoo's are under 1000kg no chance, this has no airbags, no abs etc so quite basic.
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A few random pics of it out and about. Until next time !20180516_200134.webp20180516_200158.webp20180519_194646.webp20180519_194516.webp
 
What does a regular 172 weigh? Its not exactly heavy I know!

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Do you have this pic in original format? Could I have a copy of it for the site?
 
such an epic van. did you manage to catch the weights of any of the 172/182s? i know the book figures are close to your van weight but might be different to what they actually come in at
 
A few of the well stripped 172s without cage were coming in at 950kg ish. Did not see a stock 172/182 go on. I dont reckon there is much to strip off this to get the weight down without ruining it to be fair, its got hardly any sound deadening etc. Add power instead is the best option
 
i think the weight stock are

MK1 172 - 1035kg
Mk2 172 - 1110kg
172 Cup - 1011kg
182 - 1110kg
182 Cup - 1090kg
182 Trophy - 1075kg

so not far off the weight of a stock one, definitely add some power though, low boost conversion with spare parts ftw (y)
 
38 - Long time no update

A bit cut & paste but bear with it to get it up to speed

Give the engine bay some tlc last weekend. As bought - functional

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Whipped inlet plenum/fuel rail guard off and give them a clean up with wire brush on a drill.

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I had some carb restore paint kicking about so give it a light coating as free and in stock.

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Had a new inlet gasket in stock so stuck it on as the one fitted had been re used a few times in my ownership. Regret not painting camcover whilst i had it off when resealing it/doing belts last year.


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Refitted when dry. Degreased the painted surfaces and give them a polish/wax by hand and some trim gel on the plastics. Its no show winner but tidy enough for now. Will do engine mount to suit when i get more paint.

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Fired it up and running fine. Come back to it a few hours later fire it up and slight misfire on idle and can hear a ht lead arcing out on the inlet ! Moved the leads and it stopped - guess leads are well past their best so have ordered a new set of oem renault leads so will need to strip the plenum off again next weekend lol. Hoping it will cure the occasional misfire it has.
Ordered new oem Renault beru leads to replace the knackered ones fitted.

Cant beat new oem parts in the original packaging.

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Quick stripdown had to be careful not to chip my painted inlet.

Old vs new, lead that goes to cylinder number 1 looks damaged where it meets the plug when looking at them carefully. Note new leads are 90deg compared to the old ones that come straight up from the plug.

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Fitted

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Runs & idles bang on now, the slight hesitation it had has gone. Its nice and smooth compared to last weeks poppy 3 & 1/2 cylinder idle so quite pleased with that as i feel like ive been chasing this for a while.

Next job was to try my new ecu/uch & key. Basically my uch has a fault - rear door is always open lighting door open symbol on the dash and the rcl does not flash when locking the doors. Its minor but annoying so want it fixed before any future mapping etc. I assume somebody has put the immobiliser chip out of the 172cup uch into a n3 out of a povo spec clio as the engine is listed as d4f as pic below.

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Received a package on Wed this week with new N3 uch/ecu and key

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batt negative off and pulled my ecu out - mine is on the left and different ecu.

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Pins matched so stuck it in and fitted uch, 5 mins job done as uch is easy to access. Stick batt negative terminal on and tried central locking off the key which worked correctly giving 2x flashes of indicators when locked and no door warning illuminated so my wiring is good and old uch is faulty. Ign on and a solid immobiliser light - locked/unlocked a couple of times then ign on immobiliser light went off - fuel pump primed up and fired up.

As expected asr/eml and serv light were on as mine has no abs etc and this uch is configured for stock 172. Scanned it with my cheap bluetooth dongle as not got a can clip at the mo and post cat lambda fault stored from previous car. Cleared it and only other issue is high idle for some reason 1200rpm ? Unsure why this is as no air leaks and no issues on old ecu.

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Need to hook it up to clip when my new clone can clio turns up and see whats going on, may be related to lack of abs/asr? Will reconfig uch reset throttle parameters and go from there. Refitted old setup for now so can keep using it with normal 800rpm hot idle.
 
Update

Jc5 129 with speedo sensor collected, get that fitted soon

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Took it to FCS last weekend, steady drive there and back drives great with new leads on, no hesitation or nowt. As still on knackered gearbox took it steady as 3/4th gear crunch is quite bad now.

Late night greasy spoon on A453 night before fcs as the harvester pub at the travel lodge had ran out off chicken!? Eggs and chips was awesome and mega cheap. Recommended if near Donington.

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A few pics from FCS, weather was awesome.

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New clone Can Clip turned up yesterday. Bought the gold board model which supposidly has the 'high quality chip'. Works great at the moment see how long it lasts ! Should get the new ecu and uch set in and reconfigured this weekend.

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Quote
 
Refitted later 172 ecu/uch and fired engine up from cold - idled normal and settled down to 800ish rpm idle when hot. I scanned it with clip and a load of old faults were stored relating to ct temp sensor etc assuming off the old car - cleared them and no furthur idle issues - had no faults before and none returned.

As for esp light that is now gone. From a quick search of the boards i had thought it was not possible to remove - as uch/ecu was very cheap just went for it and had a couple of hours going through all settings and not worrying about it if it all goes wrong.

Started by reconfiguring the multiplex network to set abs and steering angle sensor to missing. This removed the multiplex faults that were present.

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Serv light and esp were still on at this point so searched through settings - found course (Trajectory) control system which assumed esp light. Changed that to without and changed speedo to sensor instead of abs.

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esp light goes off and Serv still on. My airbag light does not work and knew airbags were not connected so recalibrated to suit.

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Serv light still on lol. Faults test says side sensor config.

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I get a feeling either a sensor is plugged in or wiring shorted - theres no airbag ecu or sensors etc the wiring is stashed behind centre console.

Pull wiring out and find one lone sensor connected up - lateral sensor ?? Disconnect it and serv goes straight off.

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Job done ?? Nearly. Go down the road and the raid setting on central locking is not working - mess about trying to make it work holding button down no joy. Its handy to have working to lock the doors when moving with it being a van.

Plug the airbag sensor back in and reconfig it to accept sensor and raid working again - maybe coincidence but im sure its tied into the central locking to unlock the doors in the event of impact ?? Anyway no serv light on and the main reason for swapping the lockset was to fix the door always open symbol which worked great.

Test drive to make sure all is ok


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Test drive goes ok but notice throttle not as responsive - map appears to be stock with 7200rpm limiter and 5k crossover but just feels a bit off - mainly noticing needs more throttle using heel and toe on the downshift (this is to stop crunch on gearchange because of knackered syncros lol)

So i get clip back on and reinitialize and learn the throttle position/fuelling adaptives. Fire engine up and can tell a difference straight away the idle is nice and smooth. Take it for a drive to run through the pressure zones as instructed in the workshop manual and throttle response is improved and back to normal.

I know a few of you might think its mad going to all this effort for a couple of warning lights but to me its well worth doing. The interior lights work properly now the door warning symbol is off and the indicators dual flash when locked - no more funny issues with uch going to sleep etc. Maximise what i have too and its all running great at the moment. I quite lile the n/a setup however it might be short lived as i have just agreed to buy a forged meg r26 lump😁

A quick pic of a few of the cars lined up at the weekend to finish as pulled the 225 out of the garage for a blast. Thanks for reading !

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Box swap day. Steady 45mins and subframe is ready to drop, quick bit of dinner and scan a meg250 with clip then back on with it. Hopefully be running and driving with new gearbox, new clutch & pms shifter in tomorrow 😁

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Box swap took a bit longer than anticipated 😂

Got box out fast enough, subframe off. Left steering rack in situ as all the hpas pipes looked like hassle to remove

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New valeo clutch in - old one was Luk and well worn nearly to the rivets

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Box back on Jc - 129 fitted to replace the knackered Jc 089 ph1 box. Filled up with oem Elf gear oil

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Trial fit of Pms shifter to see what the score was. @H2MRK had advised me it needed to be dropped 20mm as Kangoo tunnel is higher than clio making selector rod hit the subframe when trying to select reverse

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That was that for last weekend as ran out of time & needed a piece of 20mm alloy sheet to make a collar. Ordered a bit off ebay on Sunday with the aim of receiving it through the week.
 
Tuesday arrives and alloy plate arrives

X marks the spot that needs to be cut

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Cutting this was not as easy as planned - 20mm is quite thick and grinder was not really touching it so got my mate to chain drill it out. We call his garage BAMS (back alley machine shop) anything goes lol. I would have usually got a machine shop to do this but costs were spiralling out of control

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Quick tidy up with flapper wheel - function over form and not to be seen when fitted

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Fitted - all gears select fine. Feels great too. Everything coated underneath with acf50 and corrosion block grease to keep it fresh

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Clubsport look with gear gaitor fitted

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So get it all back together early afternoon today. I needed to pop to a village a few miles away so take it for a run out. No tools or nothing as i like to live dangerously lol.

All goes well and was feeling a blast out so headed over Blakey Ridge and around Helmsley back roads. 100 miles later and with a massive smile i was back home no issues.

The Jc - 129 feels better on a stock engine - easier to keep in the power band and the pms shifter feels excellent every gear change is positive. Forgot how good it sounds too pops and bangs on upshift when on it. Looking forward to getting it on track at Blyton !

Needs a good clean but will have to wait for now though as a poorly meg 250 has a set of Bc coilovers waiting to be fitted tomorrow, mrs is not happy that they have been sat there for 2 weeks waiting to go on with this taking a little longer than anticipated ! Thanks for reading 😁


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Small update

Mega busy week so Kangoo has sat there doing nothing. Wheels black with brake dust and fallout after last weeks mega b road blast.

Sunday comes and i have a free day so time to get a few jobs rattled off.

1st job is to check the brakes out as pedal has developed a bit of travel. Initially i thought it was just the rear shoes needed taking up. Pop druum off and rear cylinder is leaking so job knackered. Ordered new cylinders and some more motul rbf 600 fluid will tackle that next weekend.

Whilst in the air give the wheels a decontamination inside and out, sealed in preperation for mega brake dust at csf festival.


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Still love these when clean. Half hour job previous poorboys wheel sealant has done the job well

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A good mate of mine picked up a mega cheap Kubistar. Had a look round it and the dash was mint with no airbag and he was planning on selling the van so asked if a cheeky swap could be done..he eventually give in and said take what i want as long as it will still sell😅

He rings me up mid day Sunday giving a small window to do the swap. Started the job 2:30pm cars and vans everywhere

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Kubistar dash out

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Kangoo dash out

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My airbag dash vs glovebox dash. Feels lighter should have weighed it really

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7:30pm job done and absolutely knackered due to heat and lack of food. Looks ok though and free

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I had planned to collect a pair of ktec/vibratechnics mounts in Darlington so straight in the clio to get them after fitting dash ended up getting food at 10pm lol. My engine has a bit of a rock now you can change gear with new box so should sort it out.

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I have also acquired an espace v6 airbox to fit. I really want to put this on however i had the kangoo noise tested last week and its 102db at 4700rpm so cant really add any more noise ! Ill prob bosh it on though and hope for the best.

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So small list of stuff to do again before Blyton and i thought i was quite well prepared

1. Fit new rear cylinders, adjust shoes and bleed/flush fluid with fresh rbf500
2. Fit new engine mounts
3. Fit V6 airbox
4. Wash and apply more wax. Every weekend seems to be too hot to do it so hopefully get a cooler day.
 
Got a bit done over the weekend

List from last time

1.Fit new rear cylinders, adjust shoes and bleed/flush fluid with fresh rbf500 - done - front pads are quite far down so got some pbs fronts on order

2. Fit new engine mounts - started pissing down so had to abandon it

3. Fit V6 airbox - all parts ready to fit

4. Wash and apply more wax. Every weekend seems to be too hot to do it so hopefully get a cooler day - done megane instead which took ages😂

Had it on the local hunter anlignment to check the geo and it was out as expected. Camber was out on passenger side so took home to make adjustments and back in on Friday. Should still be on target for ready to roll this weekend

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#113
As in previous post i had issues with the camber up front. I set it myself last year by elongating the top strut holes on the shocker with a carbide burr (oldskool way same as the gt turbo cup racers done it).

When i set it last year i done some maths and worked out how much the holes needed to be elongated by to give -2.5deg negative and used a template to suit. When the bolts were fully back in the slot the drivers side was -2.5deg and passenger side was -2.2 deg which was deemed close enough as im no race driver.

So had the strut to hub bolts undone when changing gearbox and passenger side was not fully home in the slot when refitting which made the camber miles out -1.3deg on passenger side and -2.5deg. One of my good mates can whack it on the hunter anlignment to set the toe but i have to set camber first as its just a quick blast.

So last night i undone strut bolts and the strut moved back to the mark on passenger side which would have given me -2.2deg again but i thought it was the ideal time to sort it to match drivers side.

Late night working under my led floodlight, 10pm after gym - 30 mins job done and checked with level/steel rule

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Back on the hunter today. Taped spokes on wheels to save any marks. A bit anal maybe but want to keep then in decent nick. Looked mad when driving apparantly lol

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Camber pretty much knacker each side now so pleased with that. 10 mins of toe out overall, works great for fast road/occasional track use.

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Rear looks half decent too, camber a bit out but non adjustable so nothing can be done unless the stubs are chopped off and changed to clio setup. Drives absolutely bang on now best its ever been since ive owned it.

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Pbs pads turned up too. I was going to buy ferodo ds1:11 as have used them on the megane 225 and they are awesome but not cheap. The pbs have been pushed a bit on facebook and was a little bit skeptical of them but had good feedback off a couple of lads i know so decided to give them a blast..got to be better than the stock trw pads that are fitted now. Will soon find out tomorrow once fitted and bedded in !

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Managed to get a few hours on it on Sat

Vibratechnics engine and gearbox mounts on, excuse the rusty bolts did not have time to tart up

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Espace V6 airbox on. Tight as feck to get in even with ph1 airbox pipe ! Just need to connect a cold air feed to it - @Ricardos has kindly sent me some over so job to do this week. Would have had the inlet facing the passenger side but due to the massive battery fitted no chance ! Will run caf in front of inlet to drivers side grill.

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Pbs pads fitted and bedded in. Stopping power feels great when hot so should be good on track.

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Downside is dust but cant have it all ! This is after break in so will be black after a bit of track use lol

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Had a check over the brake lines that had been disturbed when fitting calipers and cylinders last week..i had to undo the passenger side flexi at the hard pipe as it was twisted. Checked it after bleeding no leaks but noticed a small weep after a few miles. Cranked up the fitting which almost resolved it however could still see the smallest bit of brake fluid when blue roll held against it which is not good enough.

Pulled pipe out to renew as could not get in to reflare the steel pipe in situ. I found a bit of s**t between the flexi and the flare which looked like it had caused the issue however as ive had to wrestle it out from behind the sound deadening will get a new kunifer pipe knocked up tomorrow, so its currently sat on the drive with no fecking brakes !

Looks like it will be a late night this week to get it sorted. Never ending prep this year ! Thanks for reading 😊
 
New kunifer brake pipe and more Motul rbf600 fluid and we are back up and running. Test drive lastnight on shopping run brakes feel great.

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Bought a bargain pipercross panel filter for £18 new off ebay and fitted the cold air feed to the airbox tonight. I would have routed feed behind battery but have this daft big merc diesel battery on which is fine so refuse to replace it until its fecked. Cant see the cold air feed length making much difference as its 105mm and no restrictions. Quick wash and its ready to go roll on Sat !

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