UPDATE : Starter Motor Out.
Ok, as it looks like I'll be replacing my starter motor that appears to have given up the ghost at 16k miles, I thought I'd give a step by step instruction as to how to replace the starter motor as it appears it might be a regular occurrence for us V6 owners.
I have a garage which is a little wider than normal (I can open both doors fully at the same time without hitting the garage walls - Just to give you an idea of the space I had to work in). With good strip lighting, and a good set of hand tools and inspection lamps to see what I'm doing underneath the car. I'm not a mechanic, but have done alot of work on cars (Mainly Cosworths & TVR's)......... So I'm not affraid of getting my hands dirty. I work methodically and logically and try to familiarise myself with what's involved in the job before I start. So....... Here Goes.
1. To start off with I used a 3 ton hydraulic jack, and 2 x 3 ton axle stands, first raising the car at the rear by placing the standard fitment Clio car jack in the correct raising points, just forward of the rear wheels..... One Side at a time, this allowed me to get the car just high enough to get to the rear section of the undertray and remove all the bolts (10 x 10m bolts in total - The one you'll miss is the one dead center in the middle in the recesses securing point), Once the under tray was removed, I could now place the hydraulic 3 ton jack under the center of the rear section of the rear subframe. In order not to stress the center area, I used a block of 4 x 4 wood, 2ft 6in in length and placed this between the jack lifting point and the rear cross member of the subframe...... this ensure the weight of the car was supported across the full width of the subframe so nothing was stressed. I lifted the rear of the car so that the rear wheels are about 9 inches off the ground, and then put the axle stands in place, one each side of the car on a strong area of the subframe.
Once the rear of the car was safe in the air, I removed the battery connections.
Then it was time to drain the oil........ If your going to re-use the oil (Which I am, as it's only done about 1k miles) let it drain into a clean container, and then pour it into an oil can/plastic 5 ltr oil drum. This will ensure it doesn't get contaminated with dust while your working.
Then remove the oil filter, and throw it...... You'll probaly damage it to a certain extent when you remove it, and for the cost of a new one its not worth keeping.
Then remove the Modine Oil Cooler, this is the part which the oil filter screws onto....... you'll need a 27mm ring spaner/socket to do this, by unscrewing the protruding fixing that the oil filter screws onto. Once removed, then remove the two metal coolant pipe securing bolts (2 x 10mm) from the rear of the subframe, this allows you to move the modine cooler and pipework out of the way to give access to the starter motor area. Place the modine cooler in a plastic bag, otherwise it will attract dust and and any grit in the air or from your garage floor. Once this is done, move the whole assembly clear of your work area (There is no need to remove any of the coolant pipes, leave them all connected). Keep plenty of rags handy as you will get oil dripping from the block once filter and cooler are removed), I always keep a tin of gunk handy to clean any oil spills from the floor, quite simply because it drips exactly where you'll be laid to complete the rest of the job.
Now you can see the starter motor......
Now it's time to remove the heat shields from around the pre cat, you will see where this is as there's 2 x CO Sensors bolted into it. Remove all of the 10mm securing bolts and the two sections of the shield will now be loose, but you only need to remove the one shown in the end picture (Your prevented from removing the second shield as one of the CO Sensors goes through it, preventing you from removing it. Once these two sheilds are loose, you can move them around enough to remove the starter motor shield (2 x 10mm bolts) ...... Once this is removed, you now have access (Only just enough) to remove the three starter motor securing bolts....... At first you will think that you are prevented from getting the last of the three securing bolts out, as it is blocked from coming out by the pre cat and remaining heat shield (Which is now loose and can be jiggled around, but not removed due to the CO sensor going through it - But this isn't a problem, it doesn't have to be removed), with the two starter motor top bolts removed completely, you can then jiggle the starter motor around enough in order to remove the final bolt, the starter motor will drop down enough for you to get access to remove the power cables....... this is made easier (Allowing the starter motor to drop well below any obstructions, if you remove the power cable securing clamp by undoing the bold holding the cable to the block). Once you've done that, you can easily remove the cable from the stater motor without any skinned knuckles.
This is all of the parts, and all of the bolts you should have once the starter motor is removed. You do not need to remove any other parts other than these & the rear undertray......... Amazing how new it looks....... Now I'm going to try and get it tested somewhere to see where the faul lies, rather than just buying a new one straight away. Hopefully they may be able to identify what the fault is, and highlight the weak point that alot of us seem to be experiencing....... I'll keep you updated.
And here is the culprit........... for the two hours work it took me to get it out.
Ok, as it looks like I'll be replacing my starter motor that appears to have given up the ghost at 16k miles, I thought I'd give a step by step instruction as to how to replace the starter motor as it appears it might be a regular occurrence for us V6 owners.
I have a garage which is a little wider than normal (I can open both doors fully at the same time without hitting the garage walls - Just to give you an idea of the space I had to work in). With good strip lighting, and a good set of hand tools and inspection lamps to see what I'm doing underneath the car. I'm not a mechanic, but have done alot of work on cars (Mainly Cosworths & TVR's)......... So I'm not affraid of getting my hands dirty. I work methodically and logically and try to familiarise myself with what's involved in the job before I start. So....... Here Goes.
1. To start off with I used a 3 ton hydraulic jack, and 2 x 3 ton axle stands, first raising the car at the rear by placing the standard fitment Clio car jack in the correct raising points, just forward of the rear wheels..... One Side at a time, this allowed me to get the car just high enough to get to the rear section of the undertray and remove all the bolts (10 x 10m bolts in total - The one you'll miss is the one dead center in the middle in the recesses securing point), Once the under tray was removed, I could now place the hydraulic 3 ton jack under the center of the rear section of the rear subframe. In order not to stress the center area, I used a block of 4 x 4 wood, 2ft 6in in length and placed this between the jack lifting point and the rear cross member of the subframe...... this ensure the weight of the car was supported across the full width of the subframe so nothing was stressed. I lifted the rear of the car so that the rear wheels are about 9 inches off the ground, and then put the axle stands in place, one each side of the car on a strong area of the subframe.
Once the rear of the car was safe in the air, I removed the battery connections.
Then it was time to drain the oil........ If your going to re-use the oil (Which I am, as it's only done about 1k miles) let it drain into a clean container, and then pour it into an oil can/plastic 5 ltr oil drum. This will ensure it doesn't get contaminated with dust while your working.
Then remove the oil filter, and throw it...... You'll probaly damage it to a certain extent when you remove it, and for the cost of a new one its not worth keeping.
Then remove the Modine Oil Cooler, this is the part which the oil filter screws onto....... you'll need a 27mm ring spaner/socket to do this, by unscrewing the protruding fixing that the oil filter screws onto. Once removed, then remove the two metal coolant pipe securing bolts (2 x 10mm) from the rear of the subframe, this allows you to move the modine cooler and pipework out of the way to give access to the starter motor area. Place the modine cooler in a plastic bag, otherwise it will attract dust and and any grit in the air or from your garage floor. Once this is done, move the whole assembly clear of your work area (There is no need to remove any of the coolant pipes, leave them all connected). Keep plenty of rags handy as you will get oil dripping from the block once filter and cooler are removed), I always keep a tin of gunk handy to clean any oil spills from the floor, quite simply because it drips exactly where you'll be laid to complete the rest of the job.
Now you can see the starter motor......
Now it's time to remove the heat shields from around the pre cat, you will see where this is as there's 2 x CO Sensors bolted into it. Remove all of the 10mm securing bolts and the two sections of the shield will now be loose, but you only need to remove the one shown in the end picture (Your prevented from removing the second shield as one of the CO Sensors goes through it, preventing you from removing it. Once these two sheilds are loose, you can move them around enough to remove the starter motor shield (2 x 10mm bolts) ...... Once this is removed, you now have access (Only just enough) to remove the three starter motor securing bolts....... At first you will think that you are prevented from getting the last of the three securing bolts out, as it is blocked from coming out by the pre cat and remaining heat shield (Which is now loose and can be jiggled around, but not removed due to the CO sensor going through it - But this isn't a problem, it doesn't have to be removed), with the two starter motor top bolts removed completely, you can then jiggle the starter motor around enough in order to remove the final bolt, the starter motor will drop down enough for you to get access to remove the power cables....... this is made easier (Allowing the starter motor to drop well below any obstructions, if you remove the power cable securing clamp by undoing the bold holding the cable to the block). Once you've done that, you can easily remove the cable from the stater motor without any skinned knuckles.
This is all of the parts, and all of the bolts you should have once the starter motor is removed. You do not need to remove any other parts other than these & the rear undertray......... Amazing how new it looks....... Now I'm going to try and get it tested somewhere to see where the faul lies, rather than just buying a new one straight away. Hopefully they may be able to identify what the fault is, and highlight the weak point that alot of us seem to be experiencing....... I'll keep you updated.
And here is the culprit........... for the two hours work it took me to get it out.
