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How to remove Plenum/Inlet Chamber Ph1?
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Scrabble
Its pretty easy, atleast it was on mine, just had to do it over the weekend ...had a coil go believe it or not! ..but thats another story..
No gaskets required as far as im aware.
Engine covers off,
disconnect the grey connector off the big rubber air filter pipe.
disconnect a breather hose from the bottom of big rubber air filter pipe.
undo the big rubber air filter pipe off the throttle/inlet.
theres a 2 small pipes attached to the throttle / inlet underneath, these pull / push off. (gives the plenum/inlet more slack once unbolted)
disconnect a fairly big electrical connector off the inlet too, (where the air filter pipe meets it)
then to unbolt the inlet its a number of 8mm bolts (about 6 around edge of inlet i think and 2 in center) , the center 2 are longer.
with the bolts removed, carefully pull up and rearwards the inlet (its on 2 hinges at rear of engine) big iain is right these would be a swine to unbolt but u should be able to the slide the inlet to the left (passenger side) and it should slide off the hinges, then u should be able to place it sufficiently out of the way to access the rear bank 3 coils / plugs. (i personally wouldnt change the 3 coils unless they needed, but thats up to you)
as a point of intrest though probably common knowledge, i diagnosed the faulty coil on the rear firstly after a very brief engine run on 5 cyls carefully touch the head/manifold heat sheild on each area, the 2 cyls that are firing will be alot hotter than the duff one.
To then confirm my duff coil and probably a much better way was swap the front bank (proven to all work with the systematic disconnection method) with the rear 3, then you can fit the inlet again with 3 good coils on the rear and run the engine to do the old elimination method on the front again...
apologies for going off the topic a bit...
Its pretty easy, atleast it was on mine, just had to do it over the weekend ...had a coil go believe it or not! ..but thats another story..
No gaskets required as far as im aware.
Engine covers off,
disconnect the grey connector off the big rubber air filter pipe.
disconnect a breather hose from the bottom of big rubber air filter pipe.
undo the big rubber air filter pipe off the throttle/inlet.
theres a 2 small pipes attached to the throttle / inlet underneath, these pull / push off. (gives the plenum/inlet more slack once unbolted)
disconnect a fairly big electrical connector off the inlet too, (where the air filter pipe meets it)
then to unbolt the inlet its a number of 8mm bolts (about 6 around edge of inlet i think and 2 in center) , the center 2 are longer.
with the bolts removed, carefully pull up and rearwards the inlet (its on 2 hinges at rear of engine) big iain is right these would be a swine to unbolt but u should be able to the slide the inlet to the left (passenger side) and it should slide off the hinges, then u should be able to place it sufficiently out of the way to access the rear bank 3 coils / plugs. (i personally wouldnt change the 3 coils unless they needed, but thats up to you)
as a point of intrest though probably common knowledge, i diagnosed the faulty coil on the rear firstly after a very brief engine run on 5 cyls carefully touch the head/manifold heat sheild on each area, the 2 cyls that are firing will be alot hotter than the duff one.
To then confirm my duff coil and probably a much better way was swap the front bank (proven to all work with the systematic disconnection method) with the rear 3, then you can fit the inlet again with 3 good coils on the rear and run the engine to do the old elimination method on the front again...
apologies for going off the topic a bit...
Many thanks for all your advice. This has helped.
Went to local motor shop today and they have all service parts on shelf which was a surprise. All filters and plugs. Also, interesting to note he helped a customer a few weeks previous to get rear pads. We all know Renault want over £300 for rear pads alone!!! So was suprised to find he had OE pads on the shelf for £30 a pair. The rear pads are the same as one of the Ciroen 3 litre cars (cant remember which though).
Anyway, thanks.
Went to local motor shop today and they have all service parts on shelf which was a surprise. All filters and plugs. Also, interesting to note he helped a customer a few weeks previous to get rear pads. We all know Renault want over £300 for rear pads alone!!! So was suprised to find he had OE pads on the shelf for £30 a pair. The rear pads are the same as one of the Ciroen 3 litre cars (cant remember which though).
Anyway, thanks.
i wouldnt fit the citroen pads if i were you & they are not exactly the same, albeit very close.
i cant remember exactly why as i wasnt paying full attention at the time of learning, but its something to do with way they wear. you effectively have no rear brakes at all.
hopefully someone a bit more in the know can provide you with the facts!
i cant remember exactly why as i wasnt paying full attention at the time of learning, but its something to do with way they wear. you effectively have no rear brakes at all.
hopefully someone a bit more in the know can provide you with the facts!
ddouble":1w580c52 said:
This is because the pads are slightly bigger on the outer edge (by a mm or so) and overlap the disk and as they wear the overhanging lips allegedly touch and stop the pads contacting the disk fully.
I would never fit pads which overhang the disk and so I simply and CAREFULLY remove the overhanging part of the pad using a rasp file without effecting the integrity of the pad - works a treat. You can check the progress as you carry out this work by comparing the new and old pads or simply fitting the pad as you go.
Now this is not for everyone, and I may be slated for doing it, so you take responsibility for any actions you take as a result of following the above ideas.
Martin
