HOW TO : Change Rear Brake Pads

[ClioSpyder]

Now that's how you do a guide.............absolutely brilliant stuff.

Thanks so much for taking the time and effort - this will be very much appreciated by all.

Cheers again Ben,

Hoogi :bow:

 

[tarmac terrorist]

Can we have a guide for brake discs too please? (or a hand) :race:

Matt, it's exactly the same process only you need to undo the two disc retaining screws [Torx 30 iirc] the discs then just pop off the drive flange. Somples.
Fitting is a simple case of cleaning the drive flange with a wire brush, maybe adding a little coppa-slip to stop corrosion sticking them together and then offering up the new disc, rotating to line up fixings and then refitting the T30 screws.

 

[Matt]

Like this?

LINK

 

[Ben123]

Like this?

LINK

Not sure that ever reached the KB?? Will check tonight and add if its not there.

 

[Eastlmark]

good thread but a word of warning, the 2 times I have done this I have ended up with handbrake issues which required pushing the piston back out again and re winding several times to get right. Also, the cut outs on the piston are not all the same, one has a locator for the peg in the brake pad to fit into. You need to line this up when winding back.

 

[Snails]

Can we have a guide for brake discs too please? (or a hand) :race:

Matt, it's exactly the same process only you need to undo the two disc retaining screws [Torx 30 iirc] the discs then just pop off the drive flange. Somples.
Fitting is a simple case of cleaning the drive flange with a wire brush, maybe adding a little coppa-slip to stop corrosion sticking them together and then offering up the new disc, rotating to line up fixings and then refitting the T30 screws.

I tried changing my rear discs at the weekend and couldn't get either flange/massive nut off so the disc could be removed. I tried penetrating fluid and it is still stuck fast . Any suggestions?

 

[JimA]

Snails,

You only have to undo 2 retaining screws & then with a little tap from a rubber mallet they come off quite easy.

 

[Snails]

HA! Reading comprehension failure from me. I will trying tapping the disc with a rubber mallet in that case!

 

[jamie88]

Just used this guide. Very helpful! Thank you Ben :approve:

 

[rustedandrotten]

Great guide but just a couple of notes!! Wheel centre and hub should be cleaned so that they release easily next time, I always apply Copaslip to stop siezing, likewise wheel nuts should be tightened up 'cross counter' and finally torqued up to 90 Newton/metres (if my memory is correct!) this stops wheels either dropping off if too slack or distorting the alloy by overtightening, also clamping force for the brake discs, should be checked again after a few days to ensure they have not 'bedded in' and come loose. Again, light lube on wheel bolts helps when pulling to bits again in the future.

Back to the disc removal, the fixing screws can become pretty tightly embedded so it is worth getting a close fitting driver and give it some healthy taps with a hammer before trying to undo them, saves damaging the heads, a squirt of WD40 the day before also helps! When fitting new discs, make sure the hub face is clean and free of debris or corrosion products. New discs are coated with corrosion protection and this needs to be removed before putting it onto the car as most are oil based and the last thing you need is greased brakes! Never use old pads with new discs as you will damage the surface of the new disc, at the price of these it really is a false economy. when fitting, the grub screws are only effectively for location, it is the wheel bolts that provide the clamping effort, hence the importance of correct torque up. It is worth checking the run out of the discs with a dial gauge as this will give an indication as to whether there will be problems with the pads backing off and pedal pulsing, not normally a problem with decent quality items put onto a properly cleaned hub!