High speed stability

[SteveT2]

Has anyone had any problems with high speed --- stability, i.e. feels very light at the front and it gives the feeling of been really unstable, i noticed this the other week as well when our lad was following me in his Glanza Turbo, straight up to speed then when backing off on a slight A road bend (a very mild bend) it seemed to tuck in at the front which wasn't expected :evil: .

The answer is a alignment check i suppose.

Steve

P.S just got back from a nice 100 mile round trip to Scarborough, we had a TVR segaras as company on the way back :evil: nice car and fast!!

 

[Bayliss]

never had this problem in mine, had mine going at full speed in 6th on the autobahn 2 year back on way home from germany felt fine and very stable, maybe alignment is the answer

Bayliss

oh and very local to you, only in middlesbrough

 

[Brett]

It could always be a ball joint on the back too. Letting off might cause either one of the rear wheels to toe in or out slightly giving that unusual sensation.

 

[SteveT2]

Will have to look into it!!!!!!! deffo somthing wrong.prob the first call will be over to North Eastern for the alignment check.

i reckon if i was on the Autobahn doing say 120mph it would be pushing it re; the stability!!!!!!! funny thing is when i looked around it before buying i noticed the outer edges of the front tires were a bit scrubed but put this down to the owner giving it some stick in the corners?

Steve

Bayliss will prob bump(so to speak ) into you at one of the meets this year :approve:

 

[glenn]

I found this in mine, from looking at other posts I think by fitting a front splitter could help. :approve:

 

[® Andy]

funny thing is when i looked around it before buying i noticed the outer edges of the front tires were a bit scrubed but put this down to the owner giving it some stick in the corners?

With standard geometry, you'd actually expect the inside edges of the fronts to scrub out more because wheels are toed out! So usually with the fronts you'll need to change them because of the insides going before the rest of the tyre! Curiously there has been some debate about the correct settings for the front, because whilst the dominant figures in docs (eg. workshop manual) are toed out on the front, some alternative figures have been found too with toed in settings.

Rears are toed in, and tyres should wear more evenly, though curiously my last set scrubbed out on the outside edges after I'd had the rear geometry set to the correct toe (in 9k miles vs. much more than that on my first set!).

 

[scrabble]

Just had my Ph1 fitted with new wishbones/ball joints/new Falken tyres all round and standard geometry set up based on the spec on this website and now handles like a go-cart. Was on the A3 last night in 6th with no probs whatsover. In fact it stuck like glue to the road with no lift off or vaguness normally asscociated with these cars? Goes to show that middle of the road tyres with a standard set up works well.

I think the biggest problem with these cars is out of sync geometry? Get this set up properly and you should not see any problems?

 

[boyne]

Hi Steve,

not sure about the ph2 but what you are discribing is very common in the ph1, and you can have the geo tests done new tryes etc but it will make very little difference 1, you can only adjust the tow anyway, have not fitted a splitter but have heard they may help. You can drive through it say 130 + but you will always have to hang on and have that dodgy feeling, from what i have been told and i have not done it yet if i do and that is to completey change the suspention units to adjustable ones and maybe lower the front a bit, there are plenty of threads on here about it, but your problem is not new believe me.

Roy

 

[Ali]

Had mine flat out on the autobahn at 170 on speed 159 GPS and it was steady as a rock!

 

[boyne]

Should add to my above quote any speed over 100 mph have had the car up to 145 ish and was fine but good bit of motorway and no wind, i think your car is the ph2 ali? and i beleive this has had mod done compared to the ph1, i had spent quite a lot of money trying to sort the problem now i just live with it and try not to smoke for a few days before hand lol

 

[SteveT2]

Its a Mk2, funny thing is i get the feeling Aimys (daughter) Mk1 would be much more stable at speed, ime guessing that somthing is out, if i get the chance ill take it over to north eastern today.

Steve

 

[k1ano]

Interesting as my understanding is that the Mk1 has been credited with having high speed stability issues but the Mk2 less so ...

I also seem to remember someone mentioning having a bag of cement in the front but not sure if this was a suggestion or a solution :badgrin: It might make the car go slower though [smilie=badpc.gif]

Martin

 

[Jamesv6]

The bag of cement was the reply from Ask a Renault Expert. Likely to make the car slower but you could always have a black/gold respray to compensate. I often wonder why the Vee doesn't have a front splitter as standard and a big sticker saying DO NOT REMOVE OR YOU WILL DIE.

Was it ever tested at top speed?

My MK 1 handled like a dream and none of this "Oh my God I'm taking off" feeling.

 

[k1ano]

Just for reference, I snipped this from the following Autoexpress article ...

Autoexpress - Clio V6 Mk2

<snip>
To begin with, the rear suspension has been re-engineered by introducing an all-new subframe, which Renault claims is much stiffer and more flex-resistant than previously. The wheelbase is now 23mm longer, while the trailing arms have increased by 10mm in a bid to cure the old car's high-speed stability problems. Other key changes include stiffer springs, a thicker front anti-roll bar and widening the track by 33mm.
<snip>

Also a couple of references to handling differences in this article ...

Clio Model Comparisons

Both articles suggest the Mk2 should handle pretty good ... I remember with my Mk2, when the rear subframe was loose (due to one of the bolts coming loose) handling generally became very poor, as this was despite the geometry being spot on !

Diagnosing Suspension Noises And Knocks

Martin

 

[® Andy]

Had forgotten about the rear subframe thing ... so a very timely reminder. Thanks Martin :approve:.

Mines just not feeling right at the mo. It grips well (having pretty new rubber), but feels very floaty. Was planning to get the geometry checked, but think I'll get Mike at Rentech to stick it on his lift for me and check everything is tight too (plus do me an oil change)!

 

[Williams]

If I remember correctly, it was a loose sub frame that resulted in the demise of Tapias's Acid Yellow Vee... Well worth getting it checked out.

 

[boyne]

Just for reference, I snipped this from the following Autoexpress article ...

Autoexpress - Clio V6 Mk2

<snip>
To begin with, the rear suspension has been re-engineered by introducing an all-new subframe, which Renault claims is much stiffer and more flex-resistant than previously. The wheelbase is now 23mm longer, while the trailing arms have increased by 10mm in a bid to cure the old car's high-speed stability problems. Other key changes include stiffer springs, a thicker front anti-roll bar and widening the track by 33mm.
<snip>

Also a couple of references to handling differences in this article ...

Clio Model Comparisons

Both articles suggest the Mk2 should handle pretty good ... I remember with my Mk2, when the rear subframe was loose (due to one of the bolts coming loose) handling generally became very poor, as this was despite the geometry being spot on !

Diagnosing Suspension Noises And Knocks

Martin

I had the bag of ballast in for a long time, did help i think but of course 25kg more of weight, Cant quite understand above Martin .... i remember with my mk2, is this somebody elses quote or it sort of sugests u havnt got your mk2 anymore

 

[k1ano]

Hi Roy, still have the onion and going strong - just the phrasing perhaps ...

Martin