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Other ( non Renault ) HELP! Liner height fiasco

Turbell

Well-Known Member
Right, I'm at the end of my tether with a British built 750 ( 4CV ) engine build, type 662 Ventoux

Collective input required,
This has been ongoing for a year, partly because of getting stuff from France ( which I wish I hadn't ) Covid and my engineer is a bit.....well hit and miss.
Story starts last summer when I finally agreed to rebuild this engine after we fetched it back from Renaults care nearly ten years ago after a long lone when it was used a promotional tool, I followed the owner back from Silverstone where the car was stored and it boiled all the way, absolute nightmare stopping and filling it with water every few miles, owner was gutted and we just wanted it back to Nottinghamshire and pull it apart, there were other issues with car that Renault paid to rectify with no quibble but it was obvious a full build was now required as it had only ever had a quick gasket rebuild sometime in the past.
I pulled it out last year and stripped it all finding sunk liners, wrecked bores, valves, guides mains and B/e's, the head was too far gone so I used a another from stock skimmed, new guides valves, springs rockers, block decked, crank ground, another flywheel and all balanced.....the idea being to build the best I could and this is when the fun started.
The owner bought new repro pistons and liner from France but only 1mm base seals are available, these are copper, not paper as used on later Renaults.
I struggled getting the liner protrusion with the max 0.15mm protrusion across the block, having to dig some old stock ones out slightly thinner and use these in pots 1 and 2, it was still touch and go depending where i measured, but was stuck between a rock and a hard place so went with it.
I used an old stock copper/asbestos gasket and directed by engineer as he rated them higher than modern.......I had other issues with the repro french stuff such as waterpump sandwich plates that were made to fit two versions that leaked due to slotted holes etc, each trip to the owners house putting things right, I was losing interest fast.
When I finally got it holding water and started it mayo'd up straight away, shut it down and pulled the head, gasket not sealing on block face, liners hadn't crushed down, meaning oil and waterways had made friends.
Pulled the lump and stripped it back home, OE liners have a raised pip around the base so they can crush into the copper base seal, new repro liners have a reduced base and a taper on whats left, meaning they aren't as forthcoming when it comes to biting into the copper base seal, it was obvious the heights being borderline high would not do.

So.....i took the block and liners back to my engineer, we agreed the best after some measurements to recut the liner seats in the block and deck it to get the heights to the 0.15mm max height using some 0.95mm base seals I found on Ebay.FR.........months past till i got it all back, everything else in my home workshop on hold, new bathroom nightmare fitted, what a job..
So a couple of weeks ago I built the minimum I could back up ( with a modern gen Renault HG fibre gasket ) to pressure test the assembly, blanked everything of, fitted a valve and put a bar of air in it, took about ten mins to go flat, found a leak, sorted that and now it held for about an hour, WD40 showed it leaking air by foaming on the HG seal head to block on exhaust side.
Tried it with water in and after four days it was weeping on joint.....all apart again.....liners had sat down to 0.10mm, so compressed 00.5mm, I had some 0.90mm seals when from same Ebay.FR source so decided to drop heights to 0.10mm ( which is only 0.02mm above min) and used a copper gasket again with some Stag well seal on faces, filled with water......FFS after four days it's weeping

I'm at the end of my tether with this fecker, lost all interest with this and anything else with wheels, garage is strewn with an engine in bits, a part stripped GS1000 I bought to keep me occupied i can't get started on ......

Sooooo........what do think?
The liners differ in design, and I'm well versed in over seas sellers ditching stuff on me cos I can't walk back into their shop and scream at them, but surely if the new set up with the heights at 0.10mm, and allowing for 0.05 of crush a 0.05mm liner height should work, otherwise I'm losing fire ring seal?
Should I run it up and hope it seals ?, engineer has offered a drum of seal you put in, run it and drain, or he says we can modify liners to OE spec one Saturday morning ( months pass if I leave stuff with him....) but then I'm into re-strip and another HG, and what height do I aim for then?, plus more new base seals.
I've left the sump off with a piece of white hardboard under it and no coolant drops down into it's guts.

I've built a few of these little Ventoux type engines without this drama, this is the most expensive, no expense spared build and it's the worst, to say I hate it, is an understatement, i haven't made a bean on this build, all I have had is broken dates and sleepless nights.
Any thoughts?
Please before I swing....
 
1) If it's affecting your state of mind (I hesitate to use the words mental health but you know what I mean) then walk away. Give it back to the owner, let him worry about it. You've already gone above and beyond. He can't expect you to carry on forever and without recompense too.

2) Source a used, working lump and throw that in instead

3) Change the way the liners seal at the bottom, instead of a flat seal put an angled edge on the seat in the block like the later engines, use an O-Ring and a smear of reinzosil. Then you can hard set the deck height as it doesn't depend on the crush of the seal.

Might be easier if you post pics of the components, im not familiar with the setup/components.
 
Pic below shows raised portion on OE liner that bites into copper base seal, new is in lump ATM, but it's a full seat that is reduced down from the outside edge a few mil, then seems to be cut to a taper... Imagine looking side on and it is wedge shape as opposed to the rounded protrudance you can see on OE
My intention was to be happy with it on the bench before sealing it all up, driving 20 miles, putting it in, connecting it all up to find I still had issues, but now I'm going bonkers cos I've never bench filled one of these and let it sit before running it, usually it's fit it .....fill it....run it...cool it...check torque, happy days.
IMG_20201220_134241098_HDR.webp
 
@Turbell . Nightmare!!! I have had issues with the Ally 1600 bored out to 1800 that was a real pain in the proverbial. I can't provide a solution just some thoughts. The copper may be an issue, copper age and work hardens maybe it would be an idea to anneal the rings before use. There was a great article on 8 Gordini engine building where the builder recommended not fitting the paper base gaskets as they hammer out with harsh use. his recommendation was to set them metal to metal with silicone and leave them 6 thou proud. All my race engines are metal to metal at the bottom either using o rings (original) or using Salv's vertical rubber seals. I set the protrusion at 6 thou, use cheap head gaskets and have never had any issues. The problem I guess is that this motor is small and fairly weak in crucial areas compared to a Cleon. I would be tempted to anneal the rings (red heat and quench) fit them with a little silicone protrusions not less than 2 thou or more than 6 and use a composite head gasket that will crush to take up the discrepancies. what size are the headbolts and what is standard torque. The Cleon motor uses M10 standard pitch. I replace the original bolts with 12.9 grade socket cap screws which I pull up to 60lbs/ft which is the maximum for that threadform. I wonder if there is anything you can do with this, but remember the iron of the block holes is the limiting factor here. Sorry its about as much help as a Rattlesnake in a lucky dip I'm afraid
 
@Steve Swan , I haven't annealed the rings, they're soft as shite already, bolts are OE, best of all I've got, standard torque is 45 lb/61nm, I've gone to 70nm on them as an experiment ATM, there's very little area on the block between waterway and edge, I'm not convinced copper HG is best for a seal from cold build, whether this would change when I've cooked it I don't know.
Six thou is about 0.15mm upper limit and I built it last time to .10mm, so about 4 thou?
If, by my other findings it crushes 0.05 mm when torqued and I strip it again liner heights should be 0.05mm? So why won't the fecker seal, I've got no leaks at the liner seal, just HG issues, I really don't want to fit it and have the cant ringing me to tell me it's leaking when sat......
I could try modern gasket now liners are crushed......I've got a pile of lovely Preloved 750 HG's if anyone wants......
I'll think it over....again...some more...tonight... tomorrow night ..... Christmas day...
 
I was only a boy when I saw this so may be of a guess at what actually went on . Liners in dry no gasket and it got skimmed flat so liners and block flush and then paper gasket to achieve desired protrusion.
 
@Steve Swan , I haven't annealed the rings, they're soft as shite already, bolts are OE, best of all I've got, standard torque is 45 lb/61nm, I've gone to 70nm on them as an experiment ATM, there's very little area on the block between waterway and edge, I'm not convinced copper HG is best for a seal from cold build, whether this would change when I've cooked it I don't know.
Six thou is about 0.15mm upper limit and I built it last time to .10mm, so about 4 thou?
If, by my other findings it crushes 0.05 mm when torqued and I strip it again liner heights should be 0.05mm? So why won't the fecker seal, I've got no leaks at the liner seal, just HG issues, I really don't want to fit it and have the cant ringing me to tell me it's leaking when sat......
I could try modern gasket now liners are crushed......I've got a pile of lovely Preloved 750 HG's if anyone wants......
I'll think it over....again...some more...tonight... tomorrow night ..... Christmas day...
@Turbell I can't fault your logic on any of this and would agree with everything you have said. I have used solid copper gaskets twice and had failures twice. They are great for mega-boost motors, but the motor and protrusions need to be at lower limit to work, but this ethos does not work well with a std type gasket so the whole engine build and clearances is dependant on Gasket choice . If it is not a nightmare I would try a little silicone on the base rings and use a modern type gasket . If you test it and it holds OK I would recommend a bottle of wonderweld in it on first fill just with water. Heat cycle it and re-torque as you would usually do then add antifreeze or coolant whatever is your preference. This was a common treatment on Hot Hillman Imp motors, which when they were wills ringed would weep when cold between the block and head. I have every faith you will be triumphant in the end, but it is a complete B'stard
Compliments of the season to you and yours (the telly will be shite at Christmas anyway)
Steve
 
@Steve Swan
I did use some Stag well seal on the copper bases, just a touch to help, after your thoughts and input, my current thinking us to pull the head, check the protrusion again and go with a modern gasket dry, build it all back and go for it with either the system sealer or similar, crack on and see what happens, I've built these before all without hassle, think my problems started with high liner heights and unforgiving new repro liner design, taking advice on using copper from someone not versed in this engine design, he's more vintage/ veteran focused.
Having a paddy and Mardy bumming about isn't getting me anywhere!
Stuff like this makes you what you are, gotta man up , and crack on even if I'm not 100% certain it'll work, I've got to move on and see what happens.
It's just pissed me off, I went full on plug tapping all threads, airline down, carb cleaner, re tap, making sure nothing bottomed out before clamping would happen etc,
Thanks for taking the time to give your opinion, it's at least settle my mind a bit , a plan is forming and I've put the rope away!
Merry Chrimbo to you and family, hope to see you around some day.
 
Check the block with dye penetrant around the seat area just in case it’s cracked and bowing…. Anything can happen at that age
C1J won’t fit will it ?
Cracking is usually longitudinal in these, just above webbing on thinest part of casting, manifold side, but yes I had considered how the block was behaving , and why... every day is a school day
All seems good ATM, owner checked round it and no leaks in sight .
Car is a rarer early Acton, London built car, so it's gotta be OE all the way.....
Check torque, re fit all tinwork, set it up, then go through rest of car, so the owner can have a turn key, usable car.
 
Nice one! I hope it settles down and behaves itself. It sounds quite eager........
Timing isn't set up properly, I just dropped dizzy in about right place and swung it round until it fired, so probs way out as to what it'll actually drive on, balancing bottom end seems to make them spin up a better ?
I'm just basking in the glory for a week or two before I finish up and disappear into the sunset, never to twirl a spanner again.....take up crochet...golf....
 
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