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fitting cylinder head back onto f7r block

G

Guest

ok folks cracked my old head, got a new one got it skimmed, pressure tested, ported and gas flowed,

now im no mecanic but im guesing there is a certain tightness and a certain order the head bolts must be tightend, so can sum1 let me know which way to do it cheers
 
not sure off the top of my head but use a haines manual tells u step by step no way u can really get it wrong
 
1st tightening - 30Nm
2nd tightening - 50Nm
Wait 3 mins and loosen completely
1st retightening - 25Nm
2nd reightening - 107' +- 2'

Start from the inside out working clockwise
 
Yep as above The tightening sequence should be something like this:

1-5-9-8-4
2-6-10-7-3

Whe you loosen them off its recommended that you do them in reverse order that you tightened them up
 
I got a rebuild guide for f7p/r engines. I'll dig out the info when i wake up later.
 
==================
8 4 1 5 9 <----------Cam

7 3 2 6 10 <-----------Cam
==================

Use a light oil on the threads of the new head bolts.
(note: * = Degrees)

1. Tighten head bolts in order to 30nm
2.tighten head bolts in order a further 50* +/- 2*
3.wait for atleast 3 minutes
4. Loosen all bolts in reverse order to diagram.
5.tighten head bolts in order to 25Nm
6.Tighten head bolts in order by 107* +/- 2*


Addition added by renault to tightening sequence to f7r (and f7p) in 1997.

7. Run enigine untill fan cuts in twice.

8. When the enigne is totally cold. First loosen the inlet manifold support bracket near the power steering reservoir. Also the brake servo metal tuble behind the air filter houseing cover. If not, this could cause the head to stay fixed in place when the bolts are loosened there fore upset the tightening priocess. Loosen head bolts 1 & 2.

9.tighten head bolts 1 and 2 to 25 Nm
10. tighten head bolts 1 & 2 a further 107* +/- 2*
11. carry out stages 8 to 10 on head bolts 3 & 4
12. carry out stages 8 to 10 on head bolts 5 & 6
13. carry out stages 8 to 10 on head bolts 7 & 8
14. carry out stages 8 to 10 on head bolts 9 & 10

M-Fix 1995 - 2008
 
i,ve seen the second phase listed but never have done this as in my book listed for the f7r only..

does anyone do this stage as i believe loosening it with out draining the cooling system could cause problems rather than solve them.. :?
 
I never have done the process i cant see what good it does? I dont see the point in it at all... After all it'd just be stretching the headbolts even more...
 
Get a good quality T55 torx bit, I got through three T55 bits doing mine. They were Halfrauds ones.

You should not fill any fluids before the headbolts go on.

You have to tighten them to order and torque, then loosen, then retighten, then tighten to angle -/+ 3 degrees. This last bit can be hard, so make sure you have a long handled wrench to get the power down.

Do not re-use headbolts, they stretch.
 
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