5 GT Turbo F4R-T 5 Gt turbo

[Fordy]

So after not being on the road for 2 years and locked up in garage it was time to get it out and enjoy it

Straight to mot no problems

Then went on ebay and bidded on a engine with gearbox as it looked too clean and cheap considering the f4r market is usually £700+ for only an engine

Collected the engine today and stripped it down

Issues found so far
someone must of torqued the dephaser up to 900nm
Exhaust cam bearings toast
Valves bent on 2 cylinders
Middle crank main bearing scored
Middle crank journal scored
Crank rear main sealing face grooved badly
Oil pump toast

Other than that the bores are looking ridiculously nice, cross hatching in the bores look untouched
Will be measuring bores before deciding on piston sizes hoping a rebore is not needed to keep costs down

Looking for a new crank preferred 225 one

Also looking for a 225 cylinder head but do these come with dephasers/vvt?

Not sure how much of a difference it’ll make power wise without vvt?

 

[Mark_L]

That heads toast. Where are you based? I have a 225 bottom end that’s sat outside. But the crank was mint when I fitted the arp rod bolts a 1000 miles before mine did the same with the head.

 

[Fordy]

Based just outside of peterborough

I’ve got a feeling the middle crank main bearing is the first bearing on the circuit

Going to have to pull out all the oil way plugs like i did when i built my c1j engine

 

[Brigsy]

Id be tempted to go for 197 head myself. Much better than 225 out of the box flow wise, and vvt is worth having.

 

[Fordy]

From the afternoon reading

Apparently the clio 200 head is best for power and has vvt? F4r-832 i think

Really want the 225 inlet for ease of boost pipework and no bonnet issues, trying to avoid custom inlet for costs

Its all still very fresh understanding the best bits to build a ultimate block..let alone the cylinder heads

 

[Brigsy]

197/200 head best for power. My new engine i built made more power per lb of boost compared to my old one with 250 head.

You can run 225 inlet on 197 head albeit port match is crap but it works. 250 inlet port match on 197 head is good.

Wouldnt go too mad on it if still sticking with jb/jc gearbox. Stock 172 engine with low boost conversion will blow the box up for fun.

 

[Fordy]

After seeing brigsy’s kangoo thread i was sold

Going to get a new crank for the 172 block if they're available at sensible pricing otherwise it’ll have to be ground

Then 197 head now this i might buy new
My reasonings
Sellers mostly selling complete engines, most wont strip for inspection before selling
No worn out cam bearings and cams
No worn guides to deal with

Biggest reason
No need to deal with machine shops after the ctm experience on the c1j, i refuse to deal with piss poor machining/workmanship

Get new head, drill and tap head pulley
Change valves for supertech’s
Put back together

Then lob on a 250 inlet

 

[Renny 5]

Add onto what brigys said, jc5’s aren’t that strong. I run 190bhp f4r in my R5 and I’ve been through quite afew gearboxes in the past +4years with of ownership. Even when not launching it off the lights cracking casings, bending selector forks or shredding gears, I’ve managed to snap the straps on afew clutch cover plates which one went through the bell housing. 225 or 197/200 block and TL4 or NDO gearbox would be loads more robust and be up for all the abuse