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A
Anonymous
At Miguel:
I changed the clutch on my mk2 at 70k, when the engine was replaced, and at 150k, when I did some major work on the engine.
The clutch which came out at 150k, and ran 80k (kilometers by the way) had only worn off less than 0.1mm. Still it slipped quite a bit when doing kinda drop clutch things. Close to my planned engine removal, I decided to give the clutch a heavy beating, since it would be removed anyway, but surprisingly, it held, although it smelled quite bad from times to times.
Also the frictionplates weren't really overheated since they didn't collorise, like they normally do when you burn the cluth.
For the upgrade, I haven't really had much time to look into that, but I know, that Hugher also has an uprated clutch in their programm, I don't know what it is though. If their is enough interest I could ask them if they want to make an offer.
I changed the clutch on my mk2 at 70k, when the engine was replaced, and at 150k, when I did some major work on the engine.
The clutch which came out at 150k, and ran 80k (kilometers by the way) had only worn off less than 0.1mm. Still it slipped quite a bit when doing kinda drop clutch things. Close to my planned engine removal, I decided to give the clutch a heavy beating, since it would be removed anyway, but surprisingly, it held, although it smelled quite bad from times to times.
Also the frictionplates weren't really overheated since they didn't collorise, like they normally do when you burn the cluth.
For the upgrade, I haven't really had much time to look into that, but I know, that Hugher also has an uprated clutch in their programm, I don't know what it is though. If their is enough interest I could ask them if they want to make an offer.
A
Anonymous
maybe you have an oil leak into the bell housing and its contaminating the cutch? strange its eaten 2 in such a short mileage?
A
Anonymous
Clutch and release bearing were replaced last week...
Clutch cover and fly wheel showed signs of being over heated, and the release bearing / slave cylinder were original, and worn. Fluid that came out of the slave cylinder and the first lot of fluid out of the lines was BLACK. Looked like ink!
Been driving the car since then with no problem, until last night.
Similar thing happened to last time, ie clutch slip getting worse and worse as I`m driving home. Didn't get as bad as last time, but you could smell it.
I`m thinking that the clutch plate must be overheating and "glazing" causing the slip. Both times its happened, I wasn`t caning the car, but driving normally on traffic laden roads.
What could be causing it to overheat? :cry:
Clutch cover and fly wheel showed signs of being over heated, and the release bearing / slave cylinder were original, and worn. Fluid that came out of the slave cylinder and the first lot of fluid out of the lines was BLACK. Looked like ink!
Been driving the car since then with no problem, until last night.
Similar thing happened to last time, ie clutch slip getting worse and worse as I`m driving home. Didn't get as bad as last time, but you could smell it.
I`m thinking that the clutch plate must be overheating and "glazing" causing the slip. Both times its happened, I wasn`t caning the car, but driving normally on traffic laden roads.
What could be causing it to overheat? :cry:
A
Anonymous
Whell if it happens in that short period of time, it must be something wrong with either your driving style, mind me saying, or a mechanical part failure you didn't replace up to now.
Let's just eliminate the first possibility, so that leaves to me the pressureplate which failed.
On some versions of the clutch you also need to preload it after demontage, are you sure they did this?
And be sure to check the pressurespring. it can break, and still look ok.
Glazing only happens on the frictionplate, so if it has been replaced it should be ok.
definitively something wrong there. I've pulled out an heavily beaten plate after 80000km, and no glazing whatsoever.
Let's just eliminate the first possibility, so that leaves to me the pressureplate which failed.
On some versions of the clutch you also need to preload it after demontage, are you sure they did this?
And be sure to check the pressurespring. it can break, and still look ok.
Glazing only happens on the frictionplate, so if it has been replaced it should be ok.
definitively something wrong there. I've pulled out an heavily beaten plate after 80000km, and no glazing whatsoever.
A
Anonymous
Don`t think its my driving style... Normally starts to happen around town driving. I know that the clutches can slip when pulling away quickly, so I NEVER do this. I have been getting slip when changing to second from the shift light in first... Surely this cannot be normal?!
I have replaced the friction plate, the clutch cover, and the release bearing/slave cylinder with brand new genuine Renault parts, so these should all be working fine.
Tell me more about this preload? I couldn`t see any form of adjustment on the cover. Its a 2002 reg 230 brake vee.
I have replaced the friction plate, the clutch cover, and the release bearing/slave cylinder with brand new genuine Renault parts, so these should all be working fine.
Tell me more about this preload? I couldn`t see any form of adjustment on the cover. Its a 2002 reg 230 brake vee.
A
Anonymous
It is somewhere mentioned in the workshop manual, I've only got it in french though, so it isn't much of use to you, but I believe there is an english version here on the site.
I recon you dump the clutch when you do the shift from first to second?? Elsewise it is your rightfoot missuse which burns the clutch.
At these high revs it's quite easy to burn a clutch with the Vee.
I recon you dump the clutch when you do the shift from first to second?? Elsewise it is your rightfoot missuse which burns the clutch.
At these high revs it's quite easy to burn a clutch with the Vee.
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Anonymous
John V6":3p4855kg said:
No, I can drive properly.
Going to get the clutch slave cylinder bled again out of desperation.
The only other thing I can think of would be a new flywheel.
A
Anonymous
Bit of an update...
Think we`ve fixed it now. It would appear that there was an airlock in the hydraulic clutch system somewhere, and that when I had my foot flat to the floor on the clutch pedal, the clutch was dragging, and heating up. Then when I gave it a few beans, the clutch couldn`t cope and slipped.
Re bled the system, and thec lutch pedal feels lots lighter now, but the action is much better. I've now got a proper bite point on the clutch, rather than a bit "area"! Tried an enthusiastic pull away, and got wheel spin for the first time ever in the car! :badgrin:
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Got there in the end.
Think we`ve fixed it now. It would appear that there was an airlock in the hydraulic clutch system somewhere, and that when I had my foot flat to the floor on the clutch pedal, the clutch was dragging, and heating up. Then when I gave it a few beans, the clutch couldn`t cope and slipped.
Re bled the system, and thec lutch pedal feels lots lighter now, but the action is much better. I've now got a proper bite point on the clutch, rather than a bit "area"! Tried an enthusiastic pull away, and got wheel spin for the first time ever in the car! :badgrin:
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Got there in the end.
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Anonymous
Interseting that, and thanks for putting the outcome up, worth knowing...also glad you got it sorted