There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Clio Clio 1.5 dci rough idle

Brigsy

Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Anybody have experience with the 1.5 dci lumps?? (Well i know a few of you will have :D)

Just bought a clio dci 65 for a bargain price today. The issue i have is rough idle - but no warning lights on dash, pulls well with plenty of power - not bellowing out smoke and starts ok from cold. Not had it hooked up to clip yet to see if any faults - any common issues i should be checking or should i get stuck in and do a leakoff test?
 
Last edited:
We use to have a few problems with the engine mounts where they drop and cause excessive vibration that can feel like a misfire at idle, with the only solution is new mounts.
As you seem to access to a Clip you will need to check the injector correction under fuel tab they should be all even (screen shot please).
There are other issues that can cause idle problems but they need proper sequenced diagnosis to identify & not internet diagnosis.
 
If the rain holds out tomorrow i will check the mounts. I guess the top mount collapses like the megane? No vibration to be honest - its making the gearstick flap all over the place though with 750rpm solid idle on the gauge from the brief drive i had today. Will hook up clip and see whats going on (y)
 
If the rain holds out tomorrow i will check the mounts. I guess the top mount collapses like the megane? No vibration to be honest - its making the gearstick flap all over the place though with 750rpm solid idle on the gauge from the brief drive i had today. Will hook up clip and see whats going on (y)
If its flapping the gearstick around that would suggest a shagged mount somewhere.
 
Might be injectors, common problem with the dci's
Hence why I asked for a screen shot of injector correction.
Also if there was as full blown misfire the system would pick up on the difference in engine speed rotation at each stroke cause by a failed injector either by fuel or electrical, it would then bring up a DF code for that cylinder.
 
Had a look around it today and the mounts are fairly shagged so going to bosh some new ones on. Injector 3 needs a new sealing washer - bit ticky and oil around the injector. Used it for some running about today and had the glowplug light come on once under hard acceleration in 4th however it went off again when lifting off the throttle.
 
If the warning light came on for more than few seconds it should have recorded a DF code & as you spotted an cuffing injector seal the system should have picked up on this.
When you fit the RH top mount make sure the buffer is central and you apply some rubber safe grease to inside of the cavity, this will prevent cold start rumble from the mount.
 
Injector 3 needs a new sealing washer - bit ticky and oil around the injector.
That'll be a laff to get out.... I once tried to remove a scenic one and I had the whole front of the car off the ground with an engine crane attached to the injector, AND i hit it with a hammer lots. Would it come out? Nope. Left it, it ran for 3 years after that and grew a big slimy trail of black goop down the front of the engine LOL. Scrapped it when the brake servo started leaking and it was due belts.
 
Im not looking forward to doing it to be honest. If it wont budge with normal force then it wont be getting done :D still the injectors are supposed to come out of these engines OK so we will see. My old xantia hdi needed the seals doing for at least 30k just kept driving it lol
 
If the warning light came on for more than few seconds it should have recorded a DF code & as you spotted an cuffing injector seal the system should have picked up on this.
When you fit the RH top mount make sure the buffer is central and you apply some rubber safe grease to inside of the cavity, this will prevent cold start rumble from the mount.

Cheers for the reply i will get it hooked up to clip asap. I stuck a cheapy obd2 bluetooth scanner on and it said P0089 - powertrain suction valve stuck. Egr? I was planning on cleaning it anyway. Is it true that they clean the egr on these engines at every service? Also do these engines use fully synth 5/40 oil?
 
5W/40 oil,
No we don't automatically clean the EGR valve at the service, it should be self cleaning to a degree if the engine is maintained correctly.
A bit of helpful advice when removing injectors especially if it has been"glued" by tar is to warm up the engine if possible before dismantling, this will soften the tar and use a twisting action on the flats used by the clamp, it's the same if it just tight but you use releasing agent around the base.
You must also replace the HP pipes if they are removed & try and keep the opened fuel system clean by the use of blanking caps.
 
Got a chinese clone on its way @Adey not sure what version it is whatever comes with it. You can get the latest software cracked fairly easy with a quick search on google. Ive just downloaded the latest version of diaologys foc yesterday too.

Update - injector seal done, the injector came out without too much hassle just wiggled it out with 11mm spanner approx 45mins to do. Changed top engine mount and lower dogbone as it was torn, its about 90% there now nice and quiet on idle fairly smooth.

Next issue is i have noticed the engine is a little bit blue smoky under acceleration when stone cold, its not gypo transit bad by any means but still. It clears up fine in a mile or so so not worrying too much for now.

I have cleaned out the egr (which was fairly clean slight carbon no oil) have cleaned out the metal boost pipe which was heavily carboned up. I have checked the turbo for play and there is none in the shaft and no oil in the compressor housing however the outside of the comp cover has a bit of oil on it - i didnt think that was anything unusual for a derv though. The pcv and breathers are clear too. This all made it slightly better but not smoke free.

I do wonder if the turbo is letting a bit of oil out of the rear seal when stood - new CHRA is £70 so not too bothered if it is. I think the compression is good as it starts on the button but have heard about the sticky ring issue on these K9K's. Im impressed on how simple an engine it is to work on, used to working on peugeot hdi's which are so tight in the engine bay.
 
Last edited:
Some K9K are Smokey from a cold start which is normal, especially this time of year, this is due to the cold start & cold idle strategy.
Now you done the blowing injector things may start to clear up as the fueling is now reasonably correct.
 
Do you have any links or part numbers for the engine mounts for the 1.5dCi.

The wife is running a 106HP 2005 Megane with what I think is the same engine (K9K?).

Just passed 169K and I'm pretty sure it's on its original mounts
[emoji13]


RS 175 Lux
 
The megane mounts will be different to the clio. Might be worth ordering them from gsf when they do the 35% off deals on a weekend. They have done this almost every weekend recently(y)
 
Back
Top