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With the R5 only being started occasionally, it looks like the choke flap is
not responding to its cable control and opening once the car is started.
Has anyone solved this problem and was it easy?
It closes perfectly, it's the re-opening where there's a problem. The car will
stick on on 2k or more revs until you open the bonnet and manually reset
the choke position. I'm assuming it's to do with the spindle sticking, but
with all the heat, what lubrication options are there?
For the first two months since being back on the road, all was okay.
The cable retaining clip is not biting into the cable sheath enough so when you pull the choke lever to open the choke, the cable sheath is sliding under the retaining clip. (Try giving the retaining clip a little bend to add more pressure to the sheath?)
The choke flap movement is not smooth (the Choke flap can be removed with a screwdriver and a bit of patience... try turning it by hand to see if it is stiff or moves feeely. If it's stiff, then clean everything.
Actuate the choke lever while looking at the choke linkage (stand and use your left hand for the choke while looking over the engine bay)
What happens when you open and then close the choke lever? The cable should pull and push the flap open and closed, it's very basic. I expect you will see it open OK and then when you close it the cable sheath will move. All that cable should do is move this lever, it's not even spring loaded IIRC.
Dave, I think it comes down to how to lubricate the spindle that holds
the choke flap, considering the heat that's generated. It's probably that
which is making the return sticky.
Okay, further investigation has found that the outer sheathing for
the cable is causing the problem. It looks like there's too much
slack allowing the cable too much wriggle-room. Strange thing is
that when disconnected from the carb and choke lever is pushed
home, nothing happens - then just a slight movement sees the
eyelet spring out again, but with very little force.
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