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5 GT Turbo Body Kit removal

Whats the best way of removing the body kit on a R5 gtt? I am going to hopefully do this tomorrow and want to do it with the gentle approach :cool:
Rear bumper aswell, but I recon I'll be ok with that with me being a noobie :)

Cheers guys
 
Whats the best way of removing the body kit on a R5 gtt? I am going to hopefully do this tomorrow and want to do it with the gentle approach :cool:
Rear bumper aswell, but I recon I'll be ok with that with me being a noobie :)

Cheers guys
VERY CAREFULLY.
Soak the bumper clips with WD40 before removal, or they will just spin
Skirts take out the lugs at the bottom and slide them forward.
As for the arches, I dont know someone else will reply I hope :)
 
Just give them a gentle tug, the rust usually gives way so no tools required haha.
Work front to back, wheels off for better access. Splash guards off, front arches have 4 10mm bolts but also 2 smaller higher up.
Side skirts, drill out the sill rivits and yank up, the clips are usually corroded anyway.
Rear under light trims, 10mm bolt from the tailgate side but need a yank backwards off the arch as the clips are tight.
Rear arches, 10mm bolts again, I'm sure there's one at the bottom of the sill?
Rear/front bumpers there's a 10mm either side but also bottom brackets, best to leave the brackets on the bumpers otherwise they just snap when removing.
Like Dave says, use plenty of wd40, ideally from the back side of the bumpers.
Have fun :read.gif:
 
Nice one guys, thanks for the info, I had a lot of fun getting them off :ireful2.gif:.
Haz your spot on with the 10mm bolt I had to use a mirror to see it on the rear bumper, it wasnt to bad really I dont think any of it has ever been off some of the bolts were solid even after a dose x 10 of WD, I did split one of the side skirts on the bottom only slightly on one of the rivet mountings. Is the fibreglass easy to repair ? :negative.gif:
 
Yeah the wd40 doesn't do much unless it's on the thread, which of course is difficult to get to when fitted. The usual nip tighten before undoing helps.
Tbh just trim off the split bit. It can be repaired to look correct but won't have any strength as to do that it would have to be thicker to overlap original and new bit, which then pushes it off the sill
 
The best way imo is to buzz either side of the crack so it's an inch or so wide and past each end, but from both sides so you're left with a central slither. Trim some fibreglass matting neatly and a little smaller than were you've buzzed. Apply some resin, add the matt and top up with resin to get close to the shape, again both sides but will have to be done individually. The rest is just filler and shaping.
Bear in mind, the more material you remove and build back up the stronger it should be, but add far to much and it's more to rub back
 
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