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ABS mot failer

jonboy21t

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, the mighty pink phase 1 is in for a MOT tomorrow @ 8am - the ABS light is on & has been since I've owned it. Previously my "dodgy" garage has found ways around it - he's now out of business & i'm using the local garage for local people. Has anyone got any parts to fix the "usual" ABS probems - ie: target rings, sensors etc........
I'll post my requirments tuesday :cry: :cry:

Cheers
 
here the quick answer, if the bulb don't work then how do they know the abs don't work. :wink:
 
tony said:
here the quick answer, if the bulb don't work then how do they know the abs don't work. :wink:

I thought the light had to come on with the ignition.... which isnt too much of a problem (like does the MOT guy know it's ABS? - aside from the badge on the back ;) ) except that my local friendly mot guy showed me their new computerised MOT system that gives the tester "hints and tips" about the car they're testing, like "this car has ABS" etc etc

the way to get around it if you cant fix the ABS is to wire the light up to the battery warning light, or oil pressure light, so when you turn the ignition on, it lights up. Then when you start it up, it goes out.
But for that much trouble, you might as well fix the ABS ;)

Also, be careful with the new computerised system - your "friendly" mot guy probably wont let anything go anymore, cos it's all got to be put into the MOT computer system and they seem to have inspectors round all the bloody time now, checking cars that have been MOT'd :S This means that you'll more than likely have to pay for a FULL RETEST if it fails on the /wrong/ things (which just takes the piss anyway)

Is the light permanently on or intermittant?

If permanent, then it's a sensor problem (i've had two cars where the nearside sensor has been rubbed by the tyre and worn through)

If it's intermittant then it's generally the targets. Clean them up! (screwdriver in between the teeth on the rings)

If there's lots of missing teeth on the back, it's new rear hub assembly!
If there's lots of missing teeth on the front, then you /can/ get new rings, but you might find it easier to swap the whole driveshaft!
 
certain items on the mot are considered for partial retest .
however with abs if the testes wants to be spot on he has to have an abs chart. this tels you how the abs light shoud function coreectly ie. how long it stays on for when it should go off etc. use the multimeter on the continuity beep mode always worked for me for diognosing abs faults.
 
lol - i've just checked - the ABS warning light is one of those things - if it fails, you can just have a partial retest (no fee)!
 
The ABS light is on & stays on - the mechanic noticed it last year when all the brake pipes were replaced - let's hope it's a front sensor or dirty target ring - either way I'm sure he'll sort it.
If it is a sensor are they mega bucks???
Update tomorrow!!
 
Personally John,i'd take the bulb out,take the giveaway ABS badge off the boot lid and put it in for its test.

I wouldn't even mention it to them and chances are they probably wouldn't even notice.

If in doubt,plead ignorance and say it was like it when you bought the car and argue that its past its last few MOT's like it (hell,you ain't a mechanic,so how were you to know it had ABS!!)

I'd try that approach 1st,its the cheapest and easiest option.....

Cheers
Roj
 
One simple check that every body forgets when they have an ABS light on, is check the fuse.
It should be the little 3 amp one all by it's self on the passenger compartment board.
 
Wonders never cease to amaze me :shock: :shock: :shock: The MOT man said that the ABS is immaterial as the brakes work as thay should & he passed the car on all aspects - appart from the welding & I mean welding. I've just got back from the garage & it's not good.

1: Both front chasis members have been tackled before (badly) & need grinding & re-welding
2: The nearside seal is more dust & rust than metal
3: Both rear suspension arms are very badly rusted
4: Nearside jacking point is completly knackered (what's left of it!)
5: Nearside suspension turret is very rusty & falling appart

I knew it would fail on the suspension turret but didn't know about the rest :cry: :cry: Was tempted to throw the towel in but hey it's only money & he did say that the rest of the car is tip-top.
So I'm just off to the local cashpoint with a JCB to make a withdrawal!! :lol: :lol:

Jonno
 
Jon Cooke said:
Wonders never cease to amaze me :shock: :shock: :shock: The MOT man said that the ABS is immaterial as the brakes work as thay should & he passed the car on all aspects....

fpmsl!! Cant believe that !! I hope he doesn't have the inspectors round too often ;)
 
Whilst your getting cash out john could you make a withdrawal for me as well. coz mines in on friday to have the known promblems sorted and teh new one fixed as well.
 
tony said:
Whilst your getting cash out john could you make a withdrawal for me as well. coz mines in on friday to have the known promblems sorted and teh new one fixed as well.

New one???
 
The rear arms can only be surface rust surely? Wire brush and some Hammerite - tip top :wink:
 
Jon Cooke said:
Wonders never cease to amaze me :shock: :shock: :shock: The MOT man said that the ABS is immaterial as the brakes work as thay should & he passed the car on all aspects - appart from the welding & I mean welding. I've just got back from the garage & it's not good.

1: Both front chasis members have been tackled before (badly) & need grinding & re-welding
2: The nearside seal is more dust & rust than metal
3: Both rear suspension arms are very badly rusted
4: Nearside jacking point is completly knackered (what's left of it!)
5: Nearside suspension turret is very rusty & falling appart

I knew it would fail on the suspension turret but didn't know about the rest :cry: :cry: Was tempted to throw the towel in but hey it's only money & he did say that the rest of the car is tip-top.
So I'm just off to the local cashpoint with a JCB to make a withdrawal!! :lol: :lol:

Jonno

Oh well Jon - Even with half of the car missing due to rust you couldn't keep up with me :lol: Just think with all the welding rod and steel panels your gonna be even slower :twisted: :twisted:
 
i asks myself wot has surface rust gotta do wiv mot.if u really dont want to fix the abs fault take the advice to wireing it to the battery oil light. trust me mot inspector see it go on go off tnhat good enough.however working right is alway best :D
 
lordi said:
i asks myself wot has surface rust gotta do wiv mot.if u really dont want to fix the abs fault take the advice to wireing it to the battery oil light. trust me mot inspector see it go on go off tnhat good enough.however working right is alway best :D

Won't be fixing the ABS now - gotta save my pennies to get the car welded!!
 
Oh well Jon - Even with half of the car missing due to rust you couldn't keep up with me Laughing Just think with all the welding rod and steel panels your gonna be even slower Twisted Evil Twisted Evil

Even slower!! I think you've got me confused with someone else glovebox boy :lol: :lol:
 
Right...

I went for an MOT test today, my first experience with the new system in full operation.

It states on the test sheet that the abs light should illuminate when ignition is put on and that it should go out in 1-5 seconds.
It test the brake efficiencies and decides for itself if its good enough.....which will cause 21 owners loadsa shite with the handbrakes. The handbrake on the car i took in is excellent and it still failed!!!


With ABS, the front and rear targets ARE replaceable without renewing the parent component. I got a few spare target rings f you get stuck....i can also supply the occasional second hand tested, removed sensor.

You WILL NOT get away with just pulling the bulb out any more :cry:
 
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