19 1992 19 16v Not Starting After Rebuild

[CRAIGUSF1]

Hi,
Okay, so.. I've been restoring my car over then past 3-4 years, its been stripped and rebuilt using about 90% of new parts. The engine has been out, stripped, head skim, repainted, cleaned and assembled with new bolt on parts such as starter, alternator, belts, water pump etc... All the internals are the same. Injectors had been sent away to be refurbed too.
Now its all back together it won't start. It turns over but I don't think I'm getting a spark and I can't hear the fuel pump kicking in. I can bridge the fuel pump relay so its on, so I know the actual fuel pump is working.
When I match the two marks on the cam cover with the marks on the cams, piston 1 is TDC. Is there a mark on the crank that needs lining up with these? I'm not sure.
I really am clutching at straws, I don't know if I've left a plug off or whether I've not put the engine together properly. I don't know.
Hopefully when I find what I'm missing, its something obvious and stupid.
Please help!
Cheers

 

[r5gordini]

How did you redo the wiring? Were there other wires cut apart from those at the ignition switch?

I have experienced a lot of pain troubleshooting wiring and electrical issues. The key is to be methodical and approach things logically.

If you have a digital volt meter that is a very useful tool indeed... Make sure that the ignition feeds all work when you turn the key. Make sure you get +12v from the ignition switch to the wire that triggers the starter, etc., etc.

Andrew

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

It was just the ones to the ignition that were cut. I had to buy some more 25amp wire to bridge the gap, then just matched them up.
I'm not much of a sparkie so not much knowledge.
I have a voltmeter, will do some checks.
It's very frustrating, it was cranking but not starting when the immobiliser was in, now I've taken it out thinking it was stopping fuel delivery and spark nowt happens now.
One step forward, two steps back :dy:

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

I don't suppose anyone has a photo of the ignition connector block? Just to double check I have matched them up right. I'm starting to doubt myself.

 

[Neal R19]

The two connectors for the ignition barrel are keyed and can only plug in one way.

Really the fact that it's not cranking is the first place to look since this has nothing to do with any immobiliser/ECU circuitry etc. It's just a basic hardwired circuit. Try bridging the solenoid.

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Right, wiring sorted. Engine turns over now as it did before I took the immobiliser out.
I can't hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key, and I'm not getting a spark. All same as before.

 

[SPRYBOY]

Sounds like the engine control relay isn't working. Do you have ignition feed to coil and injectors??

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Yep and yep. Got feed to the fuel pump relay too.
Where is the engine control relay?

 

[SPRYBOY]

Not sure off the top of my head but if those feeds are present then that rules out that relay!
On the fuel pump relay do you have battery +12v feed on pin 30 and an ignition feed on another pin,not sure on number!?

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

There are only pins numbered 1 - 5 on the relay. I've bridged pins 5 and 3 to make the pump work. I'm not sure which are the battery and ignition wires. I have changed the fuel pump relay for new, same issue.
I noticed there is no wire to pin 4, is this right?

 

[SPRYBOY]

You should have +12v on one pin. The opposite pin to that will go to the fuel pump,these are obviously the 2 pins you have bridged. On the other 2 pins 1 should be +12v ignition feed and the other goes to earth via the ecu! Check to see if you have the ignition feed first.

 

[Haz]

Does the tacho flicker while cranking? If not the ignition module isn't receiving power, which won't turn the fuel pump on nor spark. That's where I used to bypass any immobilisers, put a direct live to it to test. It has been many years so I can't offer more advice without actually looking.

 

[DaveL485]

You should have +12v on one pin. The opposite pin to that will go to the fuel pump,these are obviously the 2 pins you have bridged. On the other 2 pins 1 should be +12v ignition feed and the other goes to earth via the ecu! Check to see if you have the ignition feed first.

1 (85) and 2 (86) are the relay on/off pins, 3 (30) is switched power in and 4 (87) is power feed when relay ON. 5 (87a) if power feed when relay OFF (not normally used).
I'd expect ign line to pin 1, pin 2 to be a switched earth at the ECU, perm or ign live to pin 3 and 12v out to the pump from pin4 when relay activated.

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

I'm getting ignition feed to the relay and a feed to the ignition coil

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

This is the relay

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

And this is bottom of the coil

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

With the ignition off, I'm getting feed to the red wire, pin 3.
With the ignition on I'm getting feed to the red pin 3, yellow pin 1 and thin brown pin 2.

 

[Haz]

But does the tacho flutter during cranking?
That's wrong. Relay - Red is permanent live, ign on should turn the yellow live, the thin brown should be earthed thus making the thick brown live. If the thin brown is live the ecu or wherever it's connected to isn't earthing it.
Does the coil yellow wire go live with ignition on? It has to be ign position 2 as well, live on ign 1 drops off during cranking.

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

The rev counter doesn't flutter but the battery light does.
So if the two brown wires are the wrong way round is it possible to change them round?
Thing is it was like that before it was stripped. I didn't modify the wiring apart from taking the immobiliser out.

 

[Haz]

The battery light will, the starter is sapping the power.
The tacho should flutter if the coil is getting power.
No, the wires aren't the wrong way round, just that the thin brown should change from live to earth while cranking and running. I presumed that should be controlled by the ecu. If the fault was there before and after the immobiliser was removed then presumably the wiring isn't the issue.
If the coil yellow wire is live with the ign on the I presume the fault could be the ecu.
You could just snip and earth the thin brown wire which should make it fire the fuel pump and spark but chances are the injectors and other things are all linked.
More than likely a missing earth.