19 1992 19 16v Not Starting After Rebuild

[CRAIGUSF1]

Hi,
Okay, so.. I've been restoring my car over then past 3-4 years, its been stripped and rebuilt using about 90% of new parts. The engine has been out, stripped, head skim, repainted, cleaned and assembled with new bolt on parts such as starter, alternator, belts, water pump etc... All the internals are the same. Injectors had been sent away to be refurbed too.
Now its all back together it won't start. It turns over but I don't think I'm getting a spark and I can't hear the fuel pump kicking in. I can bridge the fuel pump relay so its on, so I know the actual fuel pump is working.
When I match the two marks on the cam cover with the marks on the cams, piston 1 is TDC. Is there a mark on the crank that needs lining up with these? I'm not sure.
I really am clutching at straws, I don't know if I've left a plug off or whether I've not put the engine together properly. I don't know.
Hopefully when I find what I'm missing, its something obvious and stupid.
Please help!
Cheers

 

[Andyquadra]

does the car have an immobilizer? they normally cut fuel and spark

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

It does, but its one of these that won't let you turn the engine over until its off. So I know that's working as it should.
The factory one in the glovebox, I removed totally.

 

[DaveL485]

No fuel, no spark, two fundamentals that have one thing in common...the ECU. Is it plugged in?

(have you spark tested it? Defo no spark?)

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Yep, definitely no spark. Tested the old hold it on a bit of bare metal trick.
I think the ECU is plugged in, will check.
If it is, is there anything else it might be?

 

[DaveL485]

If it is, is there anything else it might be?

A list as long as my arm, yeah, we dont even know if its a single issue, or a combination of two or more issues. Have you made sure all the earths are connected? Engine harness, engine earth to body, etc etc.

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Oh yes, all brand new and double checked they are on bare metal. Had that mistake before.

 

[SPRYBOY]

Check your crank sensor first. Then check you have a 12v ign feed to the injectors and coil.

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

I did change the crank sensor thinking it was that, will check voltage to the injectors and coil though. Good shout.

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Think I'm going to take the aftermarket immobiliser out. After reading up, so many people have had problems with these over time so I think the best bet is to completely remove it.
Any helpful pointers I need to know about? Is it as simple as just taking it out?

 

[SPRYBOY]

If you post a pic up of the wiring I should be able to tell you what to do. It isn't hard some wires you can just cut others will need joining back together!

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Think I've managed to take out the spaghetti of wiring, there were a few wires that needed reattaching. Mainly the ignition wires.
There are a few plugs that aren't connected to anything and I have no idea where they go...

 

[SPRYBOY]

I would only worry about the wires that were physically plugged into the immobiliser for now. You should probably have ignition live, +12v battery and an earth,these can just be cut at the source. Now depending on what circuits are immobilised you will probably find,(when you trace the wiring back), that the original wires on the car have been cut,so one side of the cut wire will bean input to the immobiliser and the other side of the cut wire will be the output from the immobiliser.
Hope you can understand this its a bit hard to put into words!
As long as the wires that have been cut are all of different colours then just cut out the immobiliser and re join the wires job done!
Good luck

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Yep, that makes sense. They were cut at the ignition plug. Just matched the colours and reattached. Now my battery is dead! Waiting for a red top optima to be delivered now...

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

The (hopefully) offending mess

 

[andybond]

Old immobilisers are a pain ! Top work there buddy

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Okay, so I took out the immobiliser. Waited for a spanking new optima battery to turn up.
Connected it, turned the key and nothing. Lights came up on the dash, that's it.
No fuel pump sound, no cranking. Clock works though!
Please help. Any ideas?

 

[andybond]

12v it straight from battery to fuel pump
Test its working

 

[CRAIGUSF1]

Yeah, the fuel pump was working when I bypassed the fuel pump relay before I removed the immobiliser.
Think I need an auto electrician. It has to be the wiring. Everything else on the car is brand new.