Procedure is a bit unnatural. The pulleys are not keyed, and are free floating as said above.
>Get the proper tool to release the aux belt sprung tensioner. It's a tenner and it makes it a ten second job instead of fecking about with jubilee clips and all that crap. Also FAR easier to refit it. Make sure you replace the belt
and tensioner.
>Get the lump to TDC, pop the rubber plugs out of the head on the gearbox side and when the slots are lined up you're about there. Stick the crank locking pin in. Its a good, tight fit so if you have play then you may have the pin in the balancing holes of the crank. Make sure you get the right hole (snigger). The C-shape cam tool should then slot into the end of the cams where you pulled the rubber plugs out.
>With cam position and crank lock in place, you can dugga dugga the crank pulley off, de-tension the belt and remove it.
>Get the cam pulley locking tool and bolt it to the side of the engine (it only fits one way, using the mount studs). Move the locks in toward the pulleys and engage the teeth, then tighten the locks in the tool. Once the pulleys are locked in place you can crank off the dephaser plug (watch for oil spill) and then the nut behind it. Also loosen the exhaust cam pulley nut. When thats cracked off, take off the pulley locks and remove the dephaser.
>Refit new dephaser, it doesnt matter what position, do the nut up finger tight so theres no play in the pulley but it still moves on the cam
>Refit the belt and tensioner, then
tension the belt BEFORE you tighten the pulley nuts. The cam position tool holds the cams in place and the crank pin holds the crank in place. As you tension the belt up, the pulleys will settle into place naturally on the cams.
>Refit the pulley lock, do not try and tighten the pulley nuts with only the position tool in place as you'll bend it. Once the locks are engaged, then torque up the pulley nuts and refit the dephaser plug.
>Whack the crank pulley back on, remove the locking kit and spin it a few rotations with a ratchet by hand. I do 4 revolutions or so, then refit the crank lock pin and cam position tool - they should slot back in with no resistance and all line back up. If not, start over.
Notes-
Crank pulley bolts are ONE USE items, do not reuse.
The plugs in the head are also one use items, so dont refit the new ones until you're sure its right. When removing the old ones the rubber plugs dont have metal backing in the middle so you can jam a screwdriver in there to lever them out
