To get a consistant afr it does indeed need to be aerthed at the same place as the ecu.
Also as i mentioned before, try doing a log of the crank trigger input. That might be a cause aswell.
What am I looking for on the crank trigger input?
Check this out mate:
Adjusting the MegaSquirt V3.0/V3.57 VR Conditioner - DIYAutoTune.com
If it’s fine every time you put new plugs for a short period I recon you possibly have a bit of light detonation somewhere in the map killing the plugs early, dyno load different to road load and ears cannot hear everything sometimes
Put a new set of plugs in again, minus the whole ignition timing map by 2degrees and retry see how it feels and how long the plugs last
Good suggestion Adam, however car was mapped on road also. Worth taking into considering though
But what’s confusing is when I put fresh 8s in gapped to 0.5mm as before it still missed.
Could even be a bit of shit wiring,
How is the loom connected? Where’s the coil and ecu getting feeds from?
I had massive volt drop going from aei + feed to battery, the lives go through some big shit connector behind the dash through the bulkhead.
If your not getting good voltage/current it can play silly buggers
Pleased to report that today the car is running fine, no misfires in any gear at any rpm/boost. I changed the crank sensor to an OE new one and touch wood this has fixed it.
I still have an intermittent funky idle but not as bad as before. Plan is to pressure test manifolds to see if there is a leak somewhere that I can’t spot by eye. Failing that I’m going to richen up idle by a few points.
@Fordy - I have considered wiring to be honest however I’m confident that my friend Mark has wiring the EFI elements in well, he’s an Omex engineer working on much more complex stuff however I appreciate people can make mistakes. The rest of the car wiring is not the best though, for example I randomly saw the dash lights come on the other day and in turn turn on the back light to my oil pressure gauge plus sometimes the brake lights randomly come on at a stand still whilst idling.
I need to get Mark round (the omex guy) to check over wiring. I also want my gauges wired in better and the AFR gauge sorted so mapper can use closed loop.
I also have an ISCV wired in but not switched on, I had intended to use this for ALS but I’ve given up on that idea for fear of death of turbo/engine but I do think it’s sensible to use for what it’s designed - a proper idle valve.
So back on track, 2 months of hard use to prove the set up. Back for more boost and set up of knock analyser in July. Let’s see if we can break 270hp.
Is it plumbed is as well? It could be open and closing if its not energized allowing air in
No not plumbed in, and has no aux input powering it. Just sat there waiting to be used.
I have a smoke tester if your ever near Cambridgeshire mate [emoji106]
Pressure tested this morning. Leaks from inlet manifold where it joins OE manifold, leaks from 18mm inlet below throttle body. (Poor workmanship) Also leaking from inlet manifold to head (shit manifold and 100% my fault) and finally a leak from IAT sensor.
All in all I think I’ve found the source of poor idle and now is a good as time as any to get Matt Rowley to make me one of his custom inlets.
Leaking from welds?
Yes, it looks as if he bolts them down and then seals. I need to take it off to look closer but it looks like it’s just sealant and bolts.
Very interesting, pretty sure you nailed it mate! It makes perfect sense as custom parts are used..
Could you please enlighten me a bit about this pressure testing process?
Here is my mates tester.
Stick a pressure testing kit on inlet, attach compressor line to about 20psi and then spray with soapy water or WD40 to spot leaks. To be honest you could hear my leaks instantly but as soon as started to spray you could see the whole of the manifold gasket leaking bad. Couldn’t get beneath the car to check at the bottom of manifolds but I suspect they are leaking too.
The mapper used a really good bit of kit - it was a pressurised smoke tester and surprisingly my boost circuit was solid, I’m notorious for letting boost hoses fly off but since investing in loads of genuine jubilees ive solved that issue.
Currently wondering if I could patch up the MT manifold to work on my 9… 
I’m sure you could Dave, I’m taking it off now and I’m going to seal the join up as best I can plus sort all the other leaks so I can at least use the car whilst Matt is making new inlet. I wouldn’t want much for it, £100 sound fair ?
More than fair! Might even send another package too 
:lazy2.gif:
My father in law is demolishing the chocolate, oh also I’ll have a spare throttle body too plus TPS now I come to think of it. I just bought this to send to Matt. (Forgot to Skimlink)
What diameter is the butterfly? Looks good!