EFI - GT Turbo

And I thought I was insane! Took it apart just to see? Moved to the next level mate, well done (for the results too)!!!

As you say, you’re almost sure ignition and fueling is equal to all cylinders.
The only thing that’s left then is beyond us I’m afraid (unless you have a bench dyno, 2-3 engines, 4 AFRs and EGTs blah blah): specific real time air/mixture flow at 4 separate cylinders and actually the in between difference. There is always some due to design of manifolds, heads etc and this is why on most ecus there is the option to alter values individually (or pairs of cylinders) so they come ‘closer’.

I face the same problem, I like to think it does not matter that much if it gives me joy long enough, however I would like to solve it just for the heck of it.


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are you able to move injector plugs around?

Yeah tried that Andy, stayed with 3 also. All our tests led us to be believe its mechanical.

Have you taken the valves out to check for rub/sticking marks on the stem?

No mate, wouldn’t know how. Can I do this myself ? Just a spring compressor needed ? Or do I need a shop to help ?

Yes the mapper has suggested that unequal flow/head/manifold design could mean that cylinder 3 isn’t as obvious when ign/injectors are checked. It’s very odd but we know for sure that pistons, liners and head all visually look excellent.

We are going to measure cam lobes and piston height to determine if cam has worn already or perhaps a slightly bent con rod. Really not sure when standard rod’s start to fail. 32 psi off boost probably doesn’t help. lol

I bent a rod but I suspect a trigger wheel coming undone down pod strip was a cause, it made some proper bangs and pops [emoji23]

Defo take head apart mate, keep the springs valves and retainers in the same places as spring heights have probably been corrected

Can you give me a brief ‘how to’ regarding taking head apart?

Do I just compress spring, remove retainer and then valve comes loose?

Use a c shape valve spring compressor.

Press compressor together into its locked position on valve head and spring retainer, if you have it adjusted too right length you can now get out the valve collets with a magnet, then carefully release the compressor tool then the valve is free

What I do recommend is that you tape up the collet grooves in the valve or something, there is special plastic caps for fitting valves stem seals on with, as the grooves can damage the stem seals when pulled through

Wouldnt you see a change in compression though?

3 is slightly down.

1 155psi
2 155psi
3 137psi
4 145psi


My new gadget, should hopefully prove to be a good investment.

Had the same issue on Fluffy, changed loads of stuff - turned out to be the coil breaking down, fine upto 18 psi - after that - pop - bang pop.

The one thing I haven’t swapped is coil pack/ign module.

It was strange - I would have thought it would have played up all the time, but I guess the more boost you run, the larger the cylinder pressure, the greater the electrical discharge? Doesn’t make sense to me as you would think the electrical demand would be the same regardless.

Coil dwell times in ecu too low maybe?

I have a spare so will try it out, thanks for the advice.

worth a go buddy - fingers crossed.

Took the afternoon off work to get it back together. Just need a new throttle cable plus waiting on coolant and oil.

So no evidence of cam or con rod imperfections which is good news. I took this opportunity to put and MLS gasket on plus some new head bolts.

I’ve got a set of copper 8s and 9s now. I’ve gone with the 9s to start gapped to 0.5.

iirc the coil pack need to be grounded via the 3 bolts, your coil pack isn’t resting on anything.

Take off the coil look underneath you’ll see the shines bits.

Probably won’t fix your issue but I’m sure it’s recommended