G
Guest
WIlliams widetrack
Overview
This mod widens the front track of the clio by 34mm as well as fitting a thicker anti roll bar to bring it up to Clio Williams spec.
This image is an overlay of a 16v and a Williams. You can see the extra width by the tyres (both cars fitted with 7J Williams Speedlines)
what are the benefits
Winston says its good for an extra 10mph round corners and it looks badass
i.e. it's fairly subjective, though regarded as a very worthwhile mod. The Williams was known for it's handling!
16v parts it replaces
Driveshafts (both sides)
Shocks (both sides)
Anti-roll bar
Anti-roll bar outer bushes/clamps/bolts
Wishbones (both sides)
Track rod ends - though valver ones can be wound out enough
Subframe optional - Williams was tripple skinned, added strength but heavier...
A new driveshaft rollpin is also required for refitting
Part numbers & rough prices
1x 77 01 367 627 DRIVE SHAFT LH £156.19
1x 77 01 367 523 DRIVE SHAFT RH £156.19
1x 77 03 067 320 ROLL PIN £.32
- The ABS rings are available too, should you require them:
2x 77 01 867 344 RING D/SHAFT ABS £14.23
2x 77 00 838 095 SHOCK ABSORBER £40.24
1x 60 01 025 814 ANTI-ROLL BAR £69.72 (23mm)
Outer bush parts:
2x 77 00 784 170 BUSH A/R BAR R19 £5.49
2x 77 00 784 169 CLIP A/R BaR R19 £3.61
2x 77 03 002 116 SCREW M8-2 £.69
2x 77 03 034 017 NUT 8X125 £.36
Inner bush parts: (can reuse valver parts if you want, but new bushes are always good!
- valver ARB = 22mm)
2x 77 00 785 788 BUSH A/R BAR R19 £5.49 (23mm)
2x 82 00 078 548 CLIP A/ROLL BAR £2.75
2x 77 03 002 6 SCREW M8-2 £.69
2x 77 03 035 027 NUT £.73
1x 60 0 025 841 ARM SUSP £54.93
1x 60 0 025 842 ARM SUSP RH £54.93
I can't find the part numbers for the track rod ends in Dialogys
Total Cost (including all new bushes): £640.11 (£752.13 inc vat)
Obtaining the parts
In my experience, the shock absorbers, track rod ends and anti-roll bar were Renault only parts.
The wishbones and driveshafts can be had through motorfactors (normally on an exchange basis, so have a phone around)
Bushes etc are always best bought from Renault. New wishbones normally come with new inner bushes already pressed and new hub ball joints as well.
If you wish to use 2nd hand parts (as they will be a lot cheaper), the easiest route would be to find a Williams being broken and take the whole setup.
R19 16v compatibility
There are quite a few stories circulating about which parts you can and can't use from an R19 16v, below is based mainly on the Renault part numbers.
The R19 16v OS driveshaft has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 774 896). Think the length is incorrect (too short).
The R19 16v NS driveshaft has a different part number to the Williams (77 01 349 880). Think the length is incorrect (too long).
The R19 16v ARB, although 23mm, has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 774 896). It will fit, but its a few mm longer than the Williams item.
The R19 16v OS wishbone has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 430 832).
The R19 16v NS wishbone has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 430 832).
The R19 16v shock absorber has a different part number to the williams (77 00 789 515).
So, in conclusion, the only part that seems to be interchangable would be the anti-roll bar.
Removing and refitting
Jack up car and place on axle stands.
Drain the gearbox oil by removing the sump plug. Have a container ready that can take about 5L of oil.
For each side:
- Remove wheel
-image required-
- undo hubnut from each from hub. (1x 30mm nut)
-image required-
- loosen track rod end nut (1x 16/17mm nut)
-image required-
- undo caliper carrier bolts (2x 18mm bolts)
- undo top mount (7mm allen key and 23mm socket)
-image required-
- undo bolts connecting shock to wheel hub (2x 18mm nut and bolts)
- remove shocks from car
-image required-
- unbolt hub from wishbone (2x 16mm bolts)
-image required-
- unbolt 16v outer ARB from wishbone
-image required-
- remove hub from car, unplugging the ABS sensor (if fitted) from just behind the arch liner
-image required-
- unbolt subframe brace (1x 13mm bolt)
- unbolt wishbone from subframe (2x 19mm bolts)
Remove the nearside driveshaft.
The driftshaft is secured into the gearbox by 3x 13mm bolts
Remove the offside driveshaft.
The driveshaft is held onto the gearbox by a rollpin near the gearbox end. This needs to be hammered out using a 4.5mm pin punch and a big hammer!
Remove Anti-roll bar
There are 2 inner bushes holding the ARB in place, unbolt these (2x 13mm)
Pictured with the subframe removed:
Refitting is the reveral of removing, with the exception of the ARB outer bushes. These are done on a clamp system, as opposed to being pressed like the 16v (much better imo).
Take care when tightening the 3 bolts that hold the NS driveshaft to the gearbox. These are prone to threading the soft aluminium casing of the gearbox and/or leaking. The correct torque setting for these bolts is: 25Nm
A method I've developed for avoiding this problem is to stud the gearbox. This can be done by threading in a longer bolt and using a nut on the bolt to push the gator up against the gearbox.
If you need to swap the springs and top mounts from your old shocks, a guide is available here.
The gearbox will need to be refilled with gearbox oil - Guide available here
The tracking will need to be properly set up afterwards.
Overview
This mod widens the front track of the clio by 34mm as well as fitting a thicker anti roll bar to bring it up to Clio Williams spec.
This image is an overlay of a 16v and a Williams. You can see the extra width by the tyres (both cars fitted with 7J Williams Speedlines)
what are the benefits
Winston says its good for an extra 10mph round corners and it looks badass
i.e. it's fairly subjective, though regarded as a very worthwhile mod. The Williams was known for it's handling!
16v parts it replaces
Driveshafts (both sides)
Shocks (both sides)
Anti-roll bar
Anti-roll bar outer bushes/clamps/bolts
Wishbones (both sides)
Track rod ends - though valver ones can be wound out enough
Subframe optional - Williams was tripple skinned, added strength but heavier...
A new driveshaft rollpin is also required for refitting
Part numbers & rough prices
1x 77 01 367 627 DRIVE SHAFT LH £156.19
1x 77 01 367 523 DRIVE SHAFT RH £156.19
1x 77 03 067 320 ROLL PIN £.32
- The ABS rings are available too, should you require them:
2x 77 01 867 344 RING D/SHAFT ABS £14.23
2x 77 00 838 095 SHOCK ABSORBER £40.24
1x 60 01 025 814 ANTI-ROLL BAR £69.72 (23mm)
Outer bush parts:
2x 77 00 784 170 BUSH A/R BAR R19 £5.49
2x 77 00 784 169 CLIP A/R BaR R19 £3.61
2x 77 03 002 116 SCREW M8-2 £.69
2x 77 03 034 017 NUT 8X125 £.36
Inner bush parts: (can reuse valver parts if you want, but new bushes are always good!
- valver ARB = 22mm)2x 77 00 785 788 BUSH A/R BAR R19 £5.49 (23mm)
2x 82 00 078 548 CLIP A/ROLL BAR £2.75
2x 77 03 002 6 SCREW M8-2 £.69
2x 77 03 035 027 NUT £.73
1x 60 0 025 841 ARM SUSP £54.93
1x 60 0 025 842 ARM SUSP RH £54.93
I can't find the part numbers for the track rod ends in Dialogys
Total Cost (including all new bushes): £640.11 (£752.13 inc vat)
Obtaining the parts
In my experience, the shock absorbers, track rod ends and anti-roll bar were Renault only parts.
The wishbones and driveshafts can be had through motorfactors (normally on an exchange basis, so have a phone around)
Bushes etc are always best bought from Renault. New wishbones normally come with new inner bushes already pressed and new hub ball joints as well.
If you wish to use 2nd hand parts (as they will be a lot cheaper), the easiest route would be to find a Williams being broken and take the whole setup.
R19 16v compatibility
There are quite a few stories circulating about which parts you can and can't use from an R19 16v, below is based mainly on the Renault part numbers.
The R19 16v OS driveshaft has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 774 896). Think the length is incorrect (too short).
The R19 16v NS driveshaft has a different part number to the Williams (77 01 349 880). Think the length is incorrect (too long).
The R19 16v ARB, although 23mm, has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 774 896). It will fit, but its a few mm longer than the Williams item.
The R19 16v OS wishbone has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 430 832).
The R19 16v NS wishbone has a different part number to the Williams (77 00 430 832).
The R19 16v shock absorber has a different part number to the williams (77 00 789 515).
So, in conclusion, the only part that seems to be interchangable would be the anti-roll bar.
Removing and refitting
Jack up car and place on axle stands.
Drain the gearbox oil by removing the sump plug. Have a container ready that can take about 5L of oil.
For each side:
- Remove wheel
-image required-
- undo hubnut from each from hub. (1x 30mm nut)
-image required-
- loosen track rod end nut (1x 16/17mm nut)
-image required-
- undo caliper carrier bolts (2x 18mm bolts)
- undo top mount (7mm allen key and 23mm socket)
-image required-
- undo bolts connecting shock to wheel hub (2x 18mm nut and bolts)
- remove shocks from car
-image required-
- unbolt hub from wishbone (2x 16mm bolts)
-image required-
- unbolt 16v outer ARB from wishbone
-image required-
- remove hub from car, unplugging the ABS sensor (if fitted) from just behind the arch liner
-image required-
- unbolt subframe brace (1x 13mm bolt)
- unbolt wishbone from subframe (2x 19mm bolts)
Remove the nearside driveshaft.
The driftshaft is secured into the gearbox by 3x 13mm bolts
Remove the offside driveshaft.
The driveshaft is held onto the gearbox by a rollpin near the gearbox end. This needs to be hammered out using a 4.5mm pin punch and a big hammer!
Remove Anti-roll bar
There are 2 inner bushes holding the ARB in place, unbolt these (2x 13mm)
Pictured with the subframe removed:
Refitting is the reveral of removing, with the exception of the ARB outer bushes. These are done on a clamp system, as opposed to being pressed like the 16v (much better imo).
Take care when tightening the 3 bolts that hold the NS driveshaft to the gearbox. These are prone to threading the soft aluminium casing of the gearbox and/or leaking. The correct torque setting for these bolts is: 25Nm
A method I've developed for avoiding this problem is to stud the gearbox. This can be done by threading in a longer bolt and using a nut on the bolt to push the gator up against the gearbox.
If you need to swap the springs and top mounts from your old shocks, a guide is available here.
The gearbox will need to be refilled with gearbox oil - Guide available here
The tracking will need to be properly set up afterwards.
