What non epoxy primer would you put on your track car?

[conor]

So...

Despite *everybody* telling me to go down the epoxy primer route. Gut is telling not to fork out the money for it (expensive) for a track car.

I've been recommended to jut brush on a few coats of hammered finish Hammerite. Seam seal, then schutz over that.

Because to be honest, the areas I am putting it aren't that badly rusted, just surface mainly, after 20 years. So by me tarting it out with new seam seal, paint and schutz I find it hard to see how it won't do another 20.

 

[conor]

.. Or actually.

What are the prices of stuff. What Epoxy Primer do people use? Is it just rust.co.uk?

(Please consider this the first of many questions on coatings lol)

 

[conor]

To be fair, the 1.25 Litre epoxy primer kit from rust.co.uk doesn't seem bad at £37.

 

[Turbell]

Knotted wheel in an angle grinder ( lots of PPE )
Take it back to bright metal, Bilt Hamber hydrate 80, then some zinc primer, such as zinc 182, but folks on here like bonda as well?, Seam sealer, ( I use single pack cheap tack) then gravitex, depends how much you want/can to spend.
But get rid of the ginger chrome, not paint over it.
In my experience everything rots out from the inside rather than from outside in, it's seams and joins where it all goes wrong.
Cavity wax it after, it'll be golden.

 

[conor]

Interesting.. Up to now that is exactly what I have been doing.

Literally: knotted wheel, hydrate 80, Zinc 182, seam sealer and gravitex + cavity wax.. i'm as far as Zinc 182 but that's the plan. I find it futile putting Hydrate 80 on clean metal as it doesn't seem to create much of a reaction / coating? Or.. perhaps it's just an invisible layer of protection?

 

[Turbell]

Interesting.. Up to now that is exactly what I have been doing.

Literally: knotted wheel, hydrate 80, Zinc 182, seam sealer and gravitex + cavity wax.. i'm as far as Zinc 182 but that's the plan. I find it futile putting Hydrate 80 on clean metal as it doesn't seem to create much of a reaction / coating? Or.. perhaps it's just an invisible layer of protection?

It's the pits on rusty metal after you've wire wheeled it, but hydrate 80 has good etching abilities anyway

 

[Mark_L]

Shutz won't stick to hammerite. It just slides off.

Always used bonda primer first before seam sealer, then a decent stonechip or raptor paint as seems to be popular at the moment then over that with a 2k paint that way it's as sealed as the top half of the car. Then once built I'd cavity wax inside sills etc where you can.

I only use hydrate 80 if there's some surface rust I can't remove.

Dinitrol do an aerosol rust inhibitor etch primer but it's around £30 a can... Good stuff.

 

[DaveL485]

I'm also using a knotted wheel, BHH80, Bonda primer, then eventually will be seam sealer and gravitex.

 

[Haz]

I've had issues with some seam sealer under gravitex, as with some primers.
I gravitex, then go round with the seam sealer before paint. Personally it gives more detail and breaks areas up too, smooth lines inbetween the stippled areas.

 

[conor]

Hold on @Haz, so you gravitex then seam seal? Is that correct, I would have thought it be the other way around.

 

[Haz]

I do now, the paint shop I used to use became inconsistent with materials. I had one seam sealer that became like blutack, it looked ok but if you rubbed past it, it would scrape off.
I've also applied gravitex over red oxide and some primers, mainly aerosols, and it just reacts softening the first coat. Gravitex dries but the primer stays slimey, so again, the whole lot comes off with a scraper.
I like to get some something into the joins before sealer too, when rust does get in from behind sealer it just tracks along, especially if there's air pockets behind the sealer in corners and the likes.

 

[DaveL485]

I do now, the paint shop I used to use became inconsistent with materials. I had one seam sealer that became like blutack, it looked ok but if you rubbed past it, it would scrape off.
I've also applied gravitex over red oxide and some primers, mainly aerosols, and it just reacts softening the first coat. Gravitex dries but the primer stays slimey, so again, the whole lot comes off with a scraper.
I like to get some something into the joins before sealer too, when rust does get in from behind sealer it just tracks along, especially if there's air pockets behind the sealer in corners and the likes.

So basically what you're saying is that the things are going to rot no matter what we do aside from keeping them in a dehumidified bubble

 

[Haz]

You can only do your best, it's when you're redoing your work you can see any previous flaws.
It's like using knotted wheels and the likes, they work but they do leave behind bluey black scabs which are the early stages of rust in the pitted areas. Most don't because of the mess but i prefer to sandblast after the wheels just to make sure.

 

[conor]

You can only do your best, it's when you're redoing your work you can see any previous flaws.
It's like using knotted wheels and the likes, they work but they do leave behind bluey black scabs which are the early stages of rust in the pitted areas. Most don't because of the mess but i prefer to sandblast after the wheels just to make sure.

I usually send a bit of BH Hydrate 80 over the steel after it's been knot wheeled.